New DS1500 Coal stove

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Odyknuck
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Posts: 97
Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.

Post by Odyknuck » Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 8:44 am

:out: Greetings folks. Did not see an introduction page so I will do it here. I live in Northeast Ohio. I have been burning wood for the last 12 years and convinced myself that because it was from my property it was free lol. Well we all know there is no such thing as Free lol. So at 63 years old , reality set in and I decided it was way to much work for an old man and my wife unit.
:yes: So I just stepped into the coal burning world with a brand new DS Circulator #1500 (being delivered Tuesday) and have some questions.

1) I will be using my existing Metalbestas chimney however want to do away with the leaky split stove pipe inside. What is the best stuff to use?

2) Dealer stated per factory recommendations I do not need a Barometric damper with this model , Thoughts?

3) Dealer stocks Blaschak Coal, Is the good stuff or should I use something else?

4) Should I use Pea or Nut coal?

5) Any other tips for a Newby? :idea:


 
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freetown fred
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Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 9:05 am

Welcome O. The only thing I can comment on is, been burning BLASCHAK for 10 yrs with no problems--hopefully you are gonna do bulk??? Point being--anything bagged has a problem of being damp to soaked. Now the DS guys can jump in!!! :)

 
Odyknuck
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Posts: 97
Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.

Post by Odyknuck » Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 9:37 am

Thanks for the Welcome. No place to put bulk.

 
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warminmn
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Junior, Efel Nestor Martin, Riteway 37
Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt

Post by warminmn » Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 9:52 am

Buy bags early. Put somewhere warm like in a shed. Poke some holes in the bags where air gets at the bags. They will dry out before winter.

I buy a lot of my Blaschak dripping wet in April and they are dry as a bone when winter arrives with no holes poked (in a hot tin shed) but it would be a good idea this time of year. Some bags are more airtight (TSC miners choice) and those need holes poked in them to dry. At least thats what I do.

If you are going to have them under a tarp someone else will have to tell you how to dry them. And if you buy them in the winter as you need them you will be griping about wet coal cuz everyone else seems too.

As for the baro question. whatever works for ya is the way to go.

 
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lsayre
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Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 10:03 am

You really want a terracotta chimney for coal, but if it has to be metal, its best to make it 316T (316 impregnated with titanium). Even then the acid from the coal will eventually eat it up.

I've seen this stove on "active" display at Coalway (a few years ago), and they idled it 24/7 on pea in their showroom. It is really designed for nut though. When they had it fired, they had a barometric damper on theirs. Blaschak is good, and so are many other choices.

 
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McGiever
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Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 10:16 am

What are you noticing that split pipe is leaky?
They is a high quality welded seam pipe that works well.
I get mine on-line at Northlineexpress.com

 
Odyknuck
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Posts: 97
Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.

Post by Odyknuck » Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 1:37 pm

When burning wood I had to deal with the split pipe not fitting well and leaking. A lot of it has to do with the inline manual damper used for burn control.


 
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lsayre
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Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 3:17 pm

McGiever wrote:
Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 10:16 am
I get mine on-line at Northlineexpress.com
Hey, I thought that place was my secret. :lol:

Selkirk HeatFab Saf-T Pipe

 
Odyknuck
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Posts: 97
Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.

Post by Odyknuck » Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 3:51 pm

Not anymore lol

 
rberq
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Location: Central Maine
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane

Post by rberq » Sun. Aug. 12, 2018 7:03 pm

Switching from wood to coal -- you're going to love it!

Bagged Blaschak is good stuff. Nut does very well in my DS1300. I like it a little damp to keep the dust down, have never had a problem with it being too wet. I have been burning coal with my Metalbestos chimney for 10+ years, always worry that it will deteriorate, but it still looks good. I clean it once a year -- don't know what grade of stainless it is. Barometric damper yes, in my opinion (you WILL find other opinions :lol: ).

Read a few of the forum threads on starting your coal fire -- it is way easier than the advice you may find elsewhere. Remember you can keep very low burns during warm spells, none of that foolishness with letting the fire go out and starting it again later. Light the fire in October, keep it going until May -- you are allowed only one match per year. ;)

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Sun. Aug. 12, 2018 10:16 pm

Use the barometric damper. Set it at -.06, and forget it. Use chestnut size coal.

 
hank2
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Location: Berks County
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1400 WH ciculator; 1880's small cannon in reserve
Coal Size/Type: Nut
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Post by hank2 » Sun. Aug. 12, 2018 11:30 pm

All fine advice. You'll get better heat output out of the nut sized coal, especially when you really need it. The DS circulator regulates itself somewhat, but I like a baro damper for windstorms in the middle of the night. Personally, I wouldn't use a manual damper only without an manometer hooked up. Lots of opinions on dampers.

I've also found Blaschak to be a consistently good coal. They're big enough to source enough good stuff to blend in. In years that I've burned mostly bagged, I usually empty 2 or 3 bags into buckets and store inside fairly close to the stove. It will be dried out by the time you use it. Even if a little wet, with the top hopper feed, it will dry out quickly. Maybe go back and open the hopper door for a moment a little later to let any steam escape. I wouldn't dump wet coal directly on the fire, if the hopper is empty, for obvious reasons.
lsayre wrote:
Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 3:17 pm
Hey, I thought that place was my secret. :lol:

Selkirk HeatFab Saf-T Pipe
I like that pipe, too! I used crappy 24 gauge snap together pipe for years and would be lucky to get 2 seasons out of it. The 22 ga. Heatfab black single wall, welded seam stuff is way better. I get several years out of the elbows and have about 6 years on the rest. Shame that it's gotten so pricey.


Good to hear that you can still get the DS circulators. I wish I had the 1500, but I've done well with the 1400.

 
Odyknuck
Member
Posts: 97
Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.

Post by Odyknuck » Mon. Aug. 13, 2018 4:52 pm

Great advise folks, keep it coming. Confirmed delivery for Tuesday, Yeah! I'm getting stoked, yea pun intended lol

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Mon. Aug. 13, 2018 11:50 pm

Odyknuck wrote:
Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 1:37 pm
When burning wood I had to deal with the split pipe not fitting well and leaking. A lot of it has to do with the inline manual damper used for burn control.
The theory is to never let the inside of the stove pipe to go 'POSITIVE" pressure...a good manometer is your "window" as to maintaining proper "NEGATIVE" pressure/draft setting. Split seam or welded seam you never want it to go "Positive" inside.

Barometer may be "optional" but a good manometer is "standard equipment". Plenty of threads on Dywer Manometer here for your enlightenment. ;)

 
Odyknuck
Member
Posts: 97
Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
Location: Chardon, Ohio
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.

Post by Odyknuck » Tue. Aug. 14, 2018 4:31 pm

There be a new Coal stove in the House.
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