New DS1500 Coal stove
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- Member
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
- Location: Chardon, Ohio
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
- Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.
Greetings folks. Did not see an introduction page so I will do it here. I live in Northeast Ohio. I have been burning wood for the last 12 years and convinced myself that because it was from my property it was free lol. Well we all know there is no such thing as Free lol. So at 63 years old , reality set in and I decided it was way to much work for an old man and my wife unit.
So I just stepped into the coal burning world with a brand new DS Circulator #1500 (being delivered Tuesday) and have some questions.
1) I will be using my existing Metalbestas chimney however want to do away with the leaky split stove pipe inside. What is the best stuff to use?
2) Dealer stated per factory recommendations I do not need a Barometric damper with this model , Thoughts?
3) Dealer stocks Blaschak Coal, Is the good stuff or should I use something else?
4) Should I use Pea or Nut coal?
5) Any other tips for a Newby?
So I just stepped into the coal burning world with a brand new DS Circulator #1500 (being delivered Tuesday) and have some questions.
1) I will be using my existing Metalbestas chimney however want to do away with the leaky split stove pipe inside. What is the best stuff to use?
2) Dealer stated per factory recommendations I do not need a Barometric damper with this model , Thoughts?
3) Dealer stocks Blaschak Coal, Is the good stuff or should I use something else?
4) Should I use Pea or Nut coal?
5) Any other tips for a Newby?
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30300
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Welcome O. The only thing I can comment on is, been burning BLASCHAK for 10 yrs with no problems--hopefully you are gonna do bulk??? Point being--anything bagged has a problem of being damp to soaked. Now the DS guys can jump in!!!
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- Member
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
- Location: Chardon, Ohio
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
- Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.
Thanks for the Welcome. No place to put bulk.
- warminmn
- Member
- Posts: 8189
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 08, 2011 5:59 pm
- Location: Land of 11,842 lakes
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Junior, Riteway 37
- Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
- Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt
Buy bags early. Put somewhere warm like in a shed. Poke some holes in the bags where air gets at the bags. They will dry out before winter.
I buy a lot of my Blaschak dripping wet in April and they are dry as a bone when winter arrives with no holes poked (in a hot tin shed) but it would be a good idea this time of year. Some bags are more airtight (TSC miners choice) and those need holes poked in them to dry. At least thats what I do.
If you are going to have them under a tarp someone else will have to tell you how to dry them. And if you buy them in the winter as you need them you will be griping about wet coal cuz everyone else seems too.
As for the baro question. whatever works for ya is the way to go.
I buy a lot of my Blaschak dripping wet in April and they are dry as a bone when winter arrives with no holes poked (in a hot tin shed) but it would be a good idea this time of year. Some bags are more airtight (TSC miners choice) and those need holes poked in them to dry. At least thats what I do.
If you are going to have them under a tarp someone else will have to tell you how to dry them. And if you buy them in the winter as you need them you will be griping about wet coal cuz everyone else seems too.
As for the baro question. whatever works for ya is the way to go.
- lsayre
- Member
- Posts: 21781
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
You really want a terracotta chimney for coal, but if it has to be metal, its best to make it 316T (316 impregnated with titanium). Even then the acid from the coal will eventually eat it up.
I've seen this stove on "active" display at Coalway (a few years ago), and they idled it 24/7 on pea in their showroom. It is really designed for nut though. When they had it fired, they had a barometric damper on theirs. Blaschak is good, and so are many other choices.
I've seen this stove on "active" display at Coalway (a few years ago), and they idled it 24/7 on pea in their showroom. It is really designed for nut though. When they had it fired, they had a barometric damper on theirs. Blaschak is good, and so are many other choices.
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
What are you noticing that split pipe is leaky?
They is a high quality welded seam pipe that works well.
I get mine on-line at Northlineexpress.com
They is a high quality welded seam pipe that works well.
I get mine on-line at Northlineexpress.com
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- Member
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
- Location: Chardon, Ohio
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
- Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.
When burning wood I had to deal with the split pipe not fitting well and leaking. A lot of it has to do with the inline manual damper used for burn control.
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- Member
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
- Location: Chardon, Ohio
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
- Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.
Not anymore lol
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- Member
- Posts: 6446
- Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
- Location: Central Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
- Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
Switching from wood to coal -- you're going to love it!
Bagged Blaschak is good stuff. Nut does very well in my DS1300. I like it a little damp to keep the dust down, have never had a problem with it being too wet. I have been burning coal with my Metalbestos chimney for 10+ years, always worry that it will deteriorate, but it still looks good. I clean it once a year -- don't know what grade of stainless it is. Barometric damper yes, in my opinion (you WILL find other opinions ).
Read a few of the forum threads on starting your coal fire -- it is way easier than the advice you may find elsewhere. Remember you can keep very low burns during warm spells, none of that foolishness with letting the fire go out and starting it again later. Light the fire in October, keep it going until May -- you are allowed only one match per year.
Bagged Blaschak is good stuff. Nut does very well in my DS1300. I like it a little damp to keep the dust down, have never had a problem with it being too wet. I have been burning coal with my Metalbestos chimney for 10+ years, always worry that it will deteriorate, but it still looks good. I clean it once a year -- don't know what grade of stainless it is. Barometric damper yes, in my opinion (you WILL find other opinions ).
Read a few of the forum threads on starting your coal fire -- it is way easier than the advice you may find elsewhere. Remember you can keep very low burns during warm spells, none of that foolishness with letting the fire go out and starting it again later. Light the fire in October, keep it going until May -- you are allowed only one match per year.
- oliver power
- Member
- Posts: 2970
- Joined: Sun. Apr. 16, 2006 9:28 am
- Location: Near Dansville, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: KEYSTOKER Kaa-2
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & 30-95, Vigilant (pre-2310), D.S. 1600 Circulator, Hitzer 254
Use the barometric damper. Set it at -.06, and forget it. Use chestnut size coal.
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- Member
- Posts: 854
- Joined: Sat. Dec. 10, 2011 4:07 pm
- Location: Berks County
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1400 WH ciculator; 1880's small cannon in reserve
- Coal Size/Type: Nut
- Other Heating: small New Yorker oil fired boiler; mostly used for domestic HW
All fine advice. You'll get better heat output out of the nut sized coal, especially when you really need it. The DS circulator regulates itself somewhat, but I like a baro damper for windstorms in the middle of the night. Personally, I wouldn't use a manual damper only without an manometer hooked up. Lots of opinions on dampers.
I've also found Blaschak to be a consistently good coal. They're big enough to source enough good stuff to blend in. In years that I've burned mostly bagged, I usually empty 2 or 3 bags into buckets and store inside fairly close to the stove. It will be dried out by the time you use it. Even if a little wet, with the top hopper feed, it will dry out quickly. Maybe go back and open the hopper door for a moment a little later to let any steam escape. I wouldn't dump wet coal directly on the fire, if the hopper is empty, for obvious reasons.
Good to hear that you can still get the DS circulators. I wish I had the 1500, but I've done well with the 1400.
I've also found Blaschak to be a consistently good coal. They're big enough to source enough good stuff to blend in. In years that I've burned mostly bagged, I usually empty 2 or 3 bags into buckets and store inside fairly close to the stove. It will be dried out by the time you use it. Even if a little wet, with the top hopper feed, it will dry out quickly. Maybe go back and open the hopper door for a moment a little later to let any steam escape. I wouldn't dump wet coal directly on the fire, if the hopper is empty, for obvious reasons.
I like that pipe, too! I used crappy 24 gauge snap together pipe for years and would be lucky to get 2 seasons out of it. The 22 ga. Heatfab black single wall, welded seam stuff is way better. I get several years out of the elbows and have about 6 years on the rest. Shame that it's gotten so pricey.
Good to hear that you can still get the DS circulators. I wish I had the 1500, but I've done well with the 1400.
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- Member
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
- Location: Chardon, Ohio
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
- Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.
Great advise folks, keep it coming. Confirmed delivery for Tuesday, Yeah! I'm getting stoked, yea pun intended lol
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
The theory is to never let the inside of the stove pipe to go 'POSITIVE" pressure...a good manometer is your "window" as to maintaining proper "NEGATIVE" pressure/draft setting. Split seam or welded seam you never want it to go "Positive" inside.
Barometer may be "optional" but a good manometer is "standard equipment". Plenty of threads on Dywer Manometer here for your enlightenment.
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- Member
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Thu. Aug. 09, 2018 9:24 am
- Location: Chardon, Ohio
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Circulator #1500 W/ blower modification
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Coal
- Other Heating: House - Propane Forced air furnace. Garage - Hydronic in the concrete floor with Pellet stove supplement.
There be a new Coal stove in the House.