New DS1500 Coal stove

Odyknuck wrote: ↑

Tue. Aug. 14, 2018 4:31 pm

There be a new Coal stove in the House.

Viewed with some suspicion.

Yeah I know the pic was not that great. My Puppy thought it was an alien and tried to bite it lol.

Ok, who makes the best 6" Barometric damper?

Odyknuck wrote: ↑

Wed. Aug. 15, 2018 7:33 am

Ok, who makes the best 6" Barometric damper?

You want a Field Controls Type RC. I had a bad experience with their more expensive Type M sticking open. And so did at least one other person on this forum.

As I was researching welded pipe and fittings I noticed that different manufactures use different connections. Will the RC work with a Rockford system? Or am I better off using one of their "T"s with an insert Barometric damper?

Definitely use their recommended "T" If you're gonna do it, do it right--ONCE.

Odyknuck wrote: ↑

Wed. Aug. 15, 2018 8:09 am

As I was researching welded pipe and fittings I noticed that different manufactures use different connections. Will the RC work with a Rockford system? Or am I better off using one of their "T"s with an insert Barometric damper?

Mine was a tight fit in a Saf-T Pipe tee, but it did jam in and it works just fine.

So what model number is the insert without the "T"?

Odyknuck wrote: ↑

Wed. Aug. 15, 2018 9:31 am

So what model number is the insert without the "T"?

The RC and M both come with a sheet metal cut-out that when wrapped around a properly diametered hole that you must cut into a section of your straight pipe yourself, will accept the damper. In my opinion it's a lot easier to put a tee in the line and add the damper to the tee. But perhaps all tees from all manufacturers may or may not allow these dampers to fit, and/or if you can get them in, they may jam and not function properly....

The 'wrap around' is the accompaning factory supplied collar and removes any doubt of getting the design fitment,
You would need to use tin-snips to fashion the hole in the straight section to add the collar over, but the collar is how a Type M is designed to function...it provides a much deeper throat for the M as opposed to just 'slapping' it into 'any old' tee fitting.

ETA: A standard tee is not what mfgr designed for best operation although many DIY find it simpiler.
Pro contractors are familar with what needs done and find the matching collar easy enough to install.
Setting up a M type for coal use differs from setting it up for other fuels...so results can vary by available skill sets.

lsayre wrote: ↑

Wed. Aug. 15, 2018 9:38 am

In my opinion it's a lot easier to put a tee in the line and add the damper to the tee. But perhaps all tees from all manufacturers may or may not allow these dampers to fit

Yes, easier to use a standard tee. I have had some that were a very tight fit but they always went in OK. Last one I ordered (Field Controls model RC), I got the black one WITH the tee from Field -- more expensive, but it saved having to paint it and it assembled very easily.

I am changing from wood to coal this year, for the same reason. I have a new Vigilant II coal stove and the manual says no air must enter the flue without first passing through the firebox of coal--so no barometric damper or manual damper. It does say if there is a problem with wind, get a cap for that at the top of the chimney, which I already had with wood. I am on a high hill with lots of wind, but had no problem with wood. I was buying wood, and had nothing but problems--wrong size, not seasoned, high prices. Coal will be cheaper for me, and much less work.

I am using nut coal in bags because that is all I can get here, but many people here say they mix it with pea coal for slower burns (or all pea in fall or spring, or warm spells). The smaller pea coal packs more densely by nature, so less air gets through it (or it gets through more slowly). This is the first time I have heard complaints about wet coal, but I would not be surprised if they sprayed it down before bagging--as they do before home deliveries in bulk, I am told. That should reduce the dust.

DS was my choice for some time in my plans, so I could burn coal or wood with equal efficiency (The Comfort Max 75), but I came across a sale on the Vermont Castings Vigilant II that was irresistible. If I don't like it, I also have natural gas heat, but I have become used to the coziness of a fire (from wood).

Should the dust in the bags or scuttle just be poured over the hot coal, or used in some other way?

Odyknuck wrote: ↑

Sat. Aug. 11, 2018 8:44 am

Greetings folks. Did not see an introduction page so I will do it here. I live in Northeast Ohio. I have been burning wood for the last 12 years and convinced myself that because it was from my property it was free lol. Well we all know there is no such thing as Free lol. So at 63 years old , reality set in and I decided it was way to much work for an old man and my wife unit.
So I just stepped into the coal burning world with a brand new DS Circulator #1500 (being delivered Tuesday) and have some questions.

1) I will be using my existing Metalbestas chimney however want to do away with the leaky split stove pipe inside. What is the best stuff to use?

2) Dealer stated per factory recommendations I do not need a Barometric damper with this model , Thoughts?

3) Dealer stocks Blaschak Coal, Is the good stuff or should I use something else?

4) Should I use Pea or Nut coal?

5) Any other tips for a Newby?

So I ordered A Field Control RC Barometric damper today off Fleabay for 47 bucks.

What are the thoughts on using single wall 6" 24 gauge stainless steel stove pipe

Odyknuck wrote: ↑

Sun. Aug. 19, 2018 9:31 pm

What are the thoughts on using single wall 6" 24 gauge stainless steel stove pipe

That'll work.
Would that be snapped or welded seam?
Standard rolled crimp ends?
Could you re-crimp it after a piece is cut?