Harman Mark II

 
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Post by Homesteader » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 9:46 am

I've been burning steady for a little over a week now. Probably going through around 20 lbs./day. You may want to dial the spinner back quite a bit. I'm doing well with the spinner about 1/2 turn for running then after a shake down and reload I'll turn it up to about 3/4 for about 30 min. then dial her back to a half.

Here's a picture before shakedown after 16 hr. burn.
Before Shakedown.jpg
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Then after shake down before reload.
After Shakedown.jpg
.JPG | 95.7KB | After Shakedown.jpg
I'll fill it back up till almost at the top of back firebricks sloped toward front to top of front firebricks. Since you have a good draft try dialing the spinner back and see how it goes.


 
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Post by Qtown1835 » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 10:51 am

I burned a MK3 for 2 years. I would say draft is higher than what I would use. I would shoot for -.02 or -.03 as a good base draft. The knob should be 1/4 to maybe 1/2 turn out. 40# a day is a lot of coal for the mild temps. Full tilt I would burn like 60#/day. You should really make sure that your Ash door and load door gaskets are sealing well. Also if your glass has been replaced check to make sure that the gasket was installed properly.

 
dane
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Post by dane » Sat. Oct. 20, 2018 8:18 pm

ElCamMan515 wrote:
Fri. Oct. 19, 2018 7:45 pm
Good evening everyone,

Been burning for a few weeks now with no issues. Just looking for some insight from fellow Mark II owners. I've been burning around 40lbs a day for last 3 days as temps got into the 20s. When I go to tend the stove at approx 12 hr intervals, the firebird is still very red and about 1/2 up on the firebrick in back. After a shake down the coal bed drops to to about 1/4 the length of firebrick in back. Was wondering if I am burning to much coal for the mild temps we've had. The air is set at 1 1/4 turn open and draft stays between -.04 and -.05. It is currently 70-72° in house. Also does anyone have any pics of how they mound up coal in firebox?

Thanks,

Tim
I am running stove coal, which I prefer, got a ton of nut free so that will go next. Here is mine piled up.

Dane

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ElCamMan515
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Post by ElCamMan515 » Sun. Oct. 21, 2018 8:05 pm

Thanks for the pictures guys. So I've been messing with the settings on my stove and I can turn the MPD fully closed and I still see a draft of -.02. I've been running the past day with the MPD closed or nearly closed and 1 to 1.5 turns on front dial. Stove runs between 250 and 275 degrees. While tending tonight a thought crossed my mind. Per the Harman manual, draft should be around -.06. The only way I can accomplish that much draft is open the MPD up and let more heat exit chimney. My thought was this: would opening the MPD (allowing a higher draft) and closing the front dial down produce the same results as closing the MPD and opening the front dial (allowing more air in stove)? I have the day off tomorrow so I will experiment with this.

Let me know your thoughts

Tim

 
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ElCamMan515
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Post by ElCamMan515 » Mon. Oct. 22, 2018 11:46 pm

Good evening everyone,

Did some experiments today during tending:

Experiment 1: I tended the stove at 7am and set stove to following settings; MPD open 1/2 way to set draft at -.05, dial open 1.5 turns- stove settles in at 350° and still had a good live fire at 7pm.

Experiment 2: I tended the stove at 7pm and set stove to following settings: MPD closed 1/2 way to get -.05 draft and dial set to 1 turn open. Stove settled in at 300° within a few minutes and was running strong when I left for work at 10pm.

I will do some more testing tomorrow and turn dial closed a little more and see where stove settles. It looks like my harman likes a higher draft to run efficiency. Stack temps were around 150-175°

Tim

 
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ElCamMan515
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Post by ElCamMan515 » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 8:41 am

Good day everyone,

Just a quick question for the fellow Harman Mark II owners. What temps do you normally see on your stoves? It is currently 27° OAT with a real feel of 14°. Stove is set to 1.25 turns on air intake. Draft is between -.03 and -.04, current stove temp between 375-450° depending where you point IR thermo. Does anyone run there stove hotter??

Just looking for some more input. Don't get me wrong this stove is a heat monster. It is currently 71° in my house, but have gone through 1.5 tons since starting stove on Sept. 28, 2018. I think I'm burning to much. I go through approx 35-40lbs a day even on milder days when oat temps reach mid 30s. Let me know your thoughts.

Tim

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 8:53 am

Air seems to be higher than I ran to get those body temps...
.5 to .75 turns were normal for me...
1.25 turns and the stove would be at 600*+...


 
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ElCamMan515
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Post by ElCamMan515 » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 9:08 am

Capecoaler- with the air set to 1/2 to 3/4 turns stove temps are around 200°

Tim

 
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Post by jac48 » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 9:33 am

Using stove coal I set mine to 3/4 or 1 turn and my stove runs at about 500 to 600* and I have a stove thermometer set on side of stove just above the fire brick.

 
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Post by Homesteader » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 9:47 am

CapeCoaler wrote:
Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 8:53 am
Air seems to be higher than I ran to get those body temps...
.5 to .75 turns were normal for me...
1.25 turns and the stove would be at 600*+...
Same here; at those settings my stove is in the 400-500 de. range above load door.
Capecoaler- with the air set to 1/2 to 3/4 turns stove temps are around 200°

Tim
That doesn't sound right. One thing I would check is the load door gasket doing the dollar bill test. When I first started burning coal I bought my Harmon used and since I had never burned coal before I was very disappointed with the stove temp. output. After reading posts on this forum I checked the loading door gasket and it was'nt sealing very well so replacing the gasket made a world of difference. Bottom line the firebox was getting to much secondary air so check your load door gasket. Hope this helps.

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 10:04 am

Ash on the back baffle just before exiting the stove...
Check for any extra air over fire...
The glass air wash is the only over fire air you should have...
Smudge stick or incense stick...

 
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ElCamMan515
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Post by ElCamMan515 » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 10:05 am

I replaced the load door gasket before firing it up. Maybe I didnt install it correctly and it's not sealing 100%. I'll buy some more material and replace it. When installing do you stretch the material or install it so it is not stretched out??

Thanks,

Tim

 
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Post by Homesteader » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 10:28 am

ElCamMan515 wrote:
Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 10:05 am
I replaced the load door gasket before firing it up. Maybe I didnt install it correctly and it's not sealing 100%. I'll buy some more material and replace it. When installing do you stretch the material or install it so it is not stretched out??

Thanks,

Tim
Don't stretch it or clump it. The trick is to just lay it into the glue in the channel so it is the same diameter all the way around. Should be 1/2" rope. I've never done this with a hot stove but the dollar bill test (place a dollar bill at different places around the load door, close it and the bill should be snug when pulling on it). This will tell if you have high and low spots around the gasket. Also check that the latch for the load door handle on the stove body; the allen head bolt on mine was loose and when I tightened it the door closed more snugly. I would try the dollar bill test before you go ahead and replace the gasket.

 
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Post by ElCamMan515 » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 10:56 am

I did the incense test and do not see any smoke being pulled in around the load door. Smoke is being pulled in at 3 spots at the bottom of glass and 2 spots at top of glass on load door. Are these 5 spots for air wash??

Tim

 
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Post by Homesteader » Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 11:11 am

ElCamMan515 wrote:
Tue. Dec. 18, 2018 10:56 am
I did the incense test and do not see any smoke being pulled in around the load door. Smoke is being pulled in at 3 spots at the bottom of glass and 2 spots at top of glass on load door. Are these 5 spots for air wash??

Tim
Yes the load door glass only has flat gaskets on the sides so the secondary air will enter only from the the top and bottom creating the air wash. When I replaced my glass last year I also put a flat gasket on the top (not the recomendation from Harman) to cut down more on that secondary air. It did not seem to effect the window from staying clean and gave me a bit of a hotter stove


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