Baro and manual dampers

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Thu. Feb. 15, 2018 10:29 am

McGiever wrote:
Thu. Feb. 15, 2018 10:08 am
Poor guy...I'll apologiize for this 6 page mess you got here. :?
And he thought he was on information overload on the first post !! :lol: Only 90+ pages to go and maybe this thread will get close to previous MPD vs. baro threads!! :baby:


 
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Post by kirtsy420 » Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 11:58 am

here something for you guys to ponder on. i got an Alaska Kodiak stove with a manual damper 18 in above the stove. now when my pipe is getting up around 200 i will shut my damper completely shut. bout an hour later my stove will drop bout 50 to 90 degrees but my stove pipe will be pushing 300 degrees. open the damper back up with in 15 20 mins my pipe will cool off to bout 190 210. i live in a deep valley with alot of thick woods. this year hasnt been near as cold as last year and im loosing alot more heat out my chimney than last year.

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 12:09 pm

Instead of MPD full closed or full open maybe just crack it open a very little...
And don't set yourself up for a big 'puff-back' for whenever you would open the loading door'!!

 
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Post by kirtsy420 » Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 12:13 pm

done that doesnt seem to help at all. i cant seem to get these low pipe temps like ive been hearing about. i never gotten down under 150 like alot of these guys with baros and those mono meters hooked up. ive never had a puff back or what ever

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 12:20 pm

Absolute air control (combustion) is a must....no uncontrolled air leaks...door gaskets can be less tight than when new.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 3:07 pm

I keep my MPD 3/4 closed at ALL times--no puff backs, minimal heat loss.

 
kirtsy420
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Post by kirtsy420 » Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 3:11 pm

unless mine is wide open it seems to heat the pipe up more when closed up at all. its wierd ive never seen this before


 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 5:00 pm

Where do you want the heat...up the pipe?...or in the stove?

EDIT:
See you commented that everything worked fine before, hmmm 🤔

Something Changed!!! Better Find Out!
Doubt it is your MPD or Baro at fault!

When was the last stovepipe/ chimney cleaning done?? Flyash may be restricting your exhaust path...sometimes dead critters do it also.

 
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Post by buffalo bob » Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 5:21 pm

freetown fred wrote:
Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 3:07 pm
I keep my MPD 3/4 closed at ALL times--no puff backs, minimal heat loss.
me 2 fred

 
kirtsy420
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Post by kirtsy420 » Tue. Jan. 05, 2021 8:08 am

i cleaned the chimney before this burn season

 
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Jan. 05, 2021 1:22 pm

i guess if I keep trying you'll end up tell us everything that you should of told us from the begining...playing 20 questions here...

 
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Post by kirtsy420 » Tue. Jan. 05, 2021 1:36 pm

welp keep guessing mr obvious.

 
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Post by CorrosionMan » Wed. Jan. 06, 2021 12:42 am

Well, to add my 2 cents... because I can...

This is the 21st century people! Buying a NEW solid fuel burner withOUT a bi-metalic dampener, is just plain foolish.

Note the "NEW".

There is NO situation where a bi-metalic is not the best overall solution (efficiency, safety, durability, etc.).

There, I said it... Come at me!

 
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Post by mntbugy » Wed. Jan. 06, 2021 1:03 am

If you have a barometric damper installed. Did you ever clean the backside of flapping door and the counter weight.

Use an old toothbrush or tiny wire brush.

More 2 cents.

 
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Post by rberq » Wed. Jan. 06, 2021 9:14 am

kirtsy420 wrote:
Mon. Jan. 04, 2021 11:58 am
... when my pipe is getting up around 200 i will shut my damper completely shut. bout an hour later my stove will drop bout 50 to 90 degrees but my stove pipe will be pushing 300 degrees. open the damper back up with in 15 20 mins my pipe will cool off to bout 190 210. i live in a deep valley with a lot of thick woods. this year hasn't been near as cold as last year and i'm loosing a lot more heat out my chimney than last year.
If your thermometer is below the damper, then with damper closed very little heat is being lost up the chimney because relatively little flue gas is passing through the holes in the damper. So the higher the thermometer reads, the better off you are. If your thermometer is above the damper, then I have no idea. It would be interesting to put one thermometer below and one equally as far above -- not too close to the damper itself, and not too close to the flue collar of the stove.

Also it makes a difference whether you are using a surface (magnetic stick-on) thermometer, or a probe thermometer -- the probe will always read higher. In any case 200 degrees doesn't sound terrible. Maybe close the damper only part way, to the point it doesn't reduce the stove temperature?


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