Scored a Puff Back on Video

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 7:42 am

Spacecadet wrote:
Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 2:40 am
My goal is to not do this again...had to put the baro back in the pipe and climb on to the roof to put the chimney cap back on. I fortunately had the ash door open... so it could have been worse.
Coal has a small percentage of hydrocarbons trapped within it. As coal is heated, these hydrocarbons "gas off" and accumulate in the fire chamber and chimney system. If the volatile gases have the proper fuel/air mixture they can/will explode. Don't fear, there are many ways to prevent it.

The method I use is to leave the load door cracked open a smidgen. Not much though since you still need combustion air to come up thru the grates to recover the fire and get the fresh batch burning. The cracked open load door allows air in over the fire to keep the volatile gases diluted so that they don't have the proper fuel/air mixture to explode. The blue flames will safely appear over the fuel bed when it's ready.

Maybe others will chime in with their puff back prevention techniques.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 8:27 am

My thoughts are with the user getting comfortable with using the stove as it was meant from the manufacturer & then going the gadget route for any better performance possibilities. With that kind of a blaster, I'd go back to basics.
hotblast1357 wrote:
Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 7:01 am
We have two hopper fed bimetallic controlled stoves with heat reclaimers on each, and they work very well. I don’t see any facts that prove that they do not belong.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 8:32 am

The same could be said with those MPD’s being put in the pipe blocking most of the pipe.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 8:42 am

No one I know with a MPD has ever had a blow out like that H. I'm concerned for the user, not pushing gadgets. If you have any viable solutions to prevent that from happening again, tell him.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 8:54 am

Simply proper re loading of the coal. We all know what causes these puff backs, it’s nothing new.

1. To much coal loaded at once.
2. Fire not burning hot enough to begin with.
3. Not having open burning area of previous coal to ignite new gas.
4. Not enough over fire air at reload.

My point to you Fred is just that u shouldn’t be telling him to shut down his stove and dismantle it and go buy more stove pipe and take out the heat reclaimer, it has nothing to do with the puff backs.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 8:57 am

Hmmm, wondering how the Baro would interact with the heat exchanger???? I'm not there seeing exactly what's happening. Again, when in doubt or hearing a bunch of speculative stuff, I always go back to basics. How is the Baro set??? Was the exchanger full open??? Wouldn't be the first time a stove was shut down for safety reasons. This was NOT your run of the mill puff back.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 9:22 am

There is no OPEN or CLOSED on the heat reclaimer...the exhaust simply moves around the reclaimer tubes & flows ever upward.

I had a "Magic Heat" heat reclaimer on my stove pipe when i burned wood... it worked very well...

My coal stove pipe temp at the thimble rarely is above 150*.... there is nothing to reclaim....


 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 9:23 am

freetown fred wrote:
Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 8:57 am
Was the exchanger full open???
What????

 
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 9:32 am

I bet that heat reclaimer works great when it's cold and pushing the stove hard. Just make sure it's before the baro so the heat isn't diluted first.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 9:35 am

Yes they work extremely well when runnin hard.

The two we have don’t come on in weather like this, but when the stoves are ran over 350-400 degrees, they come on frequently and reclaim quite a bit of heat!

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 9:36 am

freetown fred wrote:
Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 8:57 am
Hmmm, wondering how the Baro would interact with the heat exchanger???? I'm not there seeing exactly what's happening. Again, when in doubt or hearing a bunch of speculative stuff, I always go back to basics. How is the Baro set??? Was the exchanger full open??? Wouldn't be the first time a stove was shut down for safety reasons. This was NOT your run of the mill puff back.
Is it a fair statement to say that you do not understand fully how they work?

 
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 10:24 am

Meant the cleaning thingy. WH, I also had one on my double barrel wood stove & YES, it worked great. Would the thermo control effect the baro? Nope, just getting old H---LOL
hotblast1357 wrote:
Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 9:23 am
What????

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 10:34 am

I would say if anything it would just make the baro work less, as dropping the flue temps would slow down the draft, but the baro would still be very effective especially with strong winds.

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 10:56 am

freetown fred wrote:
Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 10:24 am
Meant the cleaning thingy. WH, I also had one on my double barrel wood stove & YES, it worked great. Would the thermo control effect the baro? Nope, just getting old H---LOL
The tube cleaning plate sits vertical,while the tubes are horizontal....the plate could sit ANYWHERE on the tubes & block absolutely nothing.

 
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Post by BigBarney » Tue. Feb. 20, 2018 1:33 pm

14Feb2017  1430.jpg
.JPG | 29.8KB | 14Feb2017 1430.jpg
Why buy a stove that has extra heat going up the chimney instead of being

captured by the stoves heat exchange system.

My boiler has a chimney temp of 400 for a short time and constantly goes

down after the volatiles are burned off then settles in at 100 to 140 degrees for

the rest of the burn , only goes up again if a call for heat and the draft primary

opens up , the secondary is fully open at all times.I burn Bit coal which has about

30% volatiles so the bottom combustion is fed a small amount of volatiles in the

whole cycle. You can see the burn in the secondary air inlet on my profile. It is

a clean burn with a blue flame tinged with yellow ends. In this boiler the flame

has to go down to reach the flue so all products of combustion have to go through

the hottest part of the flame and air is added through the tube you see in the top

picture , to burn it completely.


BigBarney


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