Adjust baro draft for different coal sizes?

 
jschaefer7406
Member
Posts: 118
Joined: Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 1:42 am

Post by jschaefer7406 » Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 8:31 pm

Thanks Lee, glad I’m not the only one who never understood the “heat in the stove”! lol

 
User avatar
Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14659
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 8:55 pm

jschaefer7406 wrote:
Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 7:59 pm
Everyone says lower chimney draft holds more heat in the furnace, but to me, what makes it different than adjusting the primary air? I mean, you’re essentially limiting the same airflow (just on different sides of the fire), no?
Yes, precisely correct. The stoves with the metallic thermostats and no baro prove it, day in and day out.

 
User avatar
windyhill4.2
Member
Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 9:04 pm

If you think the primary air controls will work just as well as the automatically reacting baro does... take the baro off... then sit there & adjust your primary air to keep draft constant. :roll:

 
lobsterman
Member
Posts: 727
Joined: Tue. Sep. 28, 2010 7:51 am
Location: Cape Cod
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby, 1980 Fully restored by Larry Trainer
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Chubby Jr, early model with removable grates

Post by lobsterman » Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 9:39 pm

The baro is a red herring.

 
jschaefer7406
Member
Posts: 118
Joined: Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 1:42 am

Post by jschaefer7406 » Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 9:53 pm

Windy,

No one is suggesting that? 🤔

I know firsthand how valuable the baro is, as I initially ran ours without one. House was 80 degrees lol.

My point is what pressure to set the baro to. By changing from .04 to .06 for example, you’re not changing anything other than where the primary air would need to be to produce the same heat.

No one is arguing why a baro is needed ;)

Joe


 
User avatar
windyhill4.2
Member
Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 10:05 pm

jschaefer7406 wrote:
Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 9:53 pm
Windy,

No one is suggesting that? 🤔

I know firsthand how valuable the baro is, as I initially ran ours without one. House was 80 degrees lol.

My point is what pressure to set the baro to. By changing from .04 to .06 for example, you’re not changing anything other than where the primary air would need to be to produce the same heat.

No one is arguing why a baro is needed ;)

Joe
By changing from .04 -.06,you are sending more heat up the chimney.

 
User avatar
Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14659
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 10:10 pm

windyhill4.2 wrote:
Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 10:05 pm
By changing from .04 -.06,you are sending more heat up the chimney.
Sure, along with more heat output from the stove, until you reduce the primary air to compensate, then the heat up the chimney will be the same.

 
jschaefer7406
Member
Posts: 118
Joined: Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 1:42 am

Post by jschaefer7406 » Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 10:46 pm

Lightning wrote:
Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 10:10 pm
Sure, along with more heat output from the stove, until you reduce the primary air to compensate, then the heat up the chimney will be the same.
^This. My understanding, as well.

Joe

 
User avatar
michaelanthony
Member
Posts: 4550
Joined: Sat. Nov. 22, 2008 10:42 pm
Location: millinocket,me.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant 2310, gold marc box stove
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Gold Marc Independence
Baseburners & Antiques: Home Sparkle 12
Coal Size/Type: 'nut
Other Heating: Fujitsu mini split, FHA oil furnace

Post by michaelanthony » Fri. Jan. 05, 2018 3:42 am

jschaefer7406 wrote:
Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 8:27 pm
Sorry for the confusion, have one on the flue pipe. Don’t currently have any way to measure actual stove temp though :)

Joe
Order the infa-red gun and sit back, no more fooling around with the magnetic ones.

 
lobsterman
Member
Posts: 727
Joined: Tue. Sep. 28, 2010 7:51 am
Location: Cape Cod
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby, 1980 Fully restored by Larry Trainer
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Chubby Jr, early model with removable grates

Post by lobsterman » Fri. Jan. 05, 2018 9:31 am

Lightning wrote:
Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 10:10 pm
Sure, along with more heat output from the stove, until you reduce the primary air to compensate, then the heat up the chimney will be the same.
Ha ha this is a gentlemans' argument that will never end. I don't run a baro. When the draft increases due to high winds or lower temperatures or both, the stove burns SLIGHTLY hotter and that is just what I want it to do.
The baro lets room temp air up the chimney (preciously heated by the stove) to cool the exhaust and slow the draft and this is just what I do not want it to do. So it slows the draft and does so at the expense of throwing some heat out of your house. Make sense? If your stove could spin out of control without it then it is clearly a different situation.


 
jschaefer7406
Member
Posts: 118
Joined: Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 1:42 am

Post by jschaefer7406 » Fri. Jan. 05, 2018 9:41 am

Lobster,

Yeah, in my case it was HOT, even with the primary air all but closed and the MPD closed. That was back this time in 2012 when I first lit the old beast, but can remember the baro made things so much more controllable and consistent.

But also, mine is a furnace in the basement, so the room air is only mildly heated. I can see your point in a warm living space, but those don’t usually seem to need a baro as badly anyway due to the shorter (and sometimes outside) chimney.

My chimney is probably 30’ and is in the center of the house, so stays warm and drafts VERY well 👍🏻

Joe

 
User avatar
windyhill4.2
Member
Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Jan. 05, 2018 9:48 am

My indoor chimney is only 12-15" from thimble to the top. It can be a low drafter when warmer temps prevail especially with higher humidity, BUT, if i didn't have a baro....... the winds that come freight training thru here overnite would melt my stove b4 morning.With the baro installed, i can leave the primary air set the same nearly 100% of the time.

 
jschaefer7406
Member
Posts: 118
Joined: Wed. Dec. 29, 2010 1:42 am

Post by jschaefer7406 » Fri. Jan. 05, 2018 9:49 am

Yep, I agree windy. Nice knowing if you leave the house and the wind kicks up, that things will stay steady 👍🏻

Joe

 
lobsterman
Member
Posts: 727
Joined: Tue. Sep. 28, 2010 7:51 am
Location: Cape Cod
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby, 1980 Fully restored by Larry Trainer
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Chubby Jr, early model with removable grates

Post by lobsterman » Fri. Jan. 05, 2018 9:50 am

Both good examples of why YOU use the baro. Thanks for sharing.

Post Reply

Return to “Hand Fired Coal Stoves & Furnaces Using Anthracite”