Adjust baro draft for different coal sizes?
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Thanks Lee, glad I’m not the only one who never understood the “heat in the stove”! lol
- Lightning
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Yes, precisely correct. The stoves with the metallic thermostats and no baro prove it, day in and day out.jschaefer7406 wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 7:59 pmEveryone says lower chimney draft holds more heat in the furnace, but to me, what makes it different than adjusting the primary air? I mean, you’re essentially limiting the same airflow (just on different sides of the fire), no?
- windyhill4.2
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If you think the primary air controls will work just as well as the automatically reacting baro does... take the baro off... then sit there & adjust your primary air to keep draft constant.
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The baro is a red herring.
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Windy,
No one is suggesting that?
I know firsthand how valuable the baro is, as I initially ran ours without one. House was 80 degrees lol.
My point is what pressure to set the baro to. By changing from .04 to .06 for example, you’re not changing anything other than where the primary air would need to be to produce the same heat.
No one is arguing why a baro is needed
Joe
No one is suggesting that?
I know firsthand how valuable the baro is, as I initially ran ours without one. House was 80 degrees lol.
My point is what pressure to set the baro to. By changing from .04 to .06 for example, you’re not changing anything other than where the primary air would need to be to produce the same heat.
No one is arguing why a baro is needed
Joe
- windyhill4.2
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By changing from .04 -.06,you are sending more heat up the chimney.jschaefer7406 wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 9:53 pmWindy,
No one is suggesting that?
I know firsthand how valuable the baro is, as I initially ran ours without one. House was 80 degrees lol.
My point is what pressure to set the baro to. By changing from .04 to .06 for example, you’re not changing anything other than where the primary air would need to be to produce the same heat.
No one is arguing why a baro is needed
Joe
- Lightning
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Sure, along with more heat output from the stove, until you reduce the primary air to compensate, then the heat up the chimney will be the same.windyhill4.2 wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 10:05 pmBy changing from .04 -.06,you are sending more heat up the chimney.
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- michaelanthony
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Order the infa-red gun and sit back, no more fooling around with the magnetic ones.jschaefer7406 wrote: ↑Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 8:27 pmSorry for the confusion, have one on the flue pipe. Don’t currently have any way to measure actual stove temp though
Joe
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Ha ha this is a gentlemans' argument that will never end. I don't run a baro. When the draft increases due to high winds or lower temperatures or both, the stove burns SLIGHTLY hotter and that is just what I want it to do.
The baro lets room temp air up the chimney (preciously heated by the stove) to cool the exhaust and slow the draft and this is just what I do not want it to do. So it slows the draft and does so at the expense of throwing some heat out of your house. Make sense? If your stove could spin out of control without it then it is clearly a different situation.
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Lobster,
Yeah, in my case it was HOT, even with the primary air all but closed and the MPD closed. That was back this time in 2012 when I first lit the old beast, but can remember the baro made things so much more controllable and consistent.
But also, mine is a furnace in the basement, so the room air is only mildly heated. I can see your point in a warm living space, but those don’t usually seem to need a baro as badly anyway due to the shorter (and sometimes outside) chimney.
My chimney is probably 30’ and is in the center of the house, so stays warm and drafts VERY well
Joe
Yeah, in my case it was HOT, even with the primary air all but closed and the MPD closed. That was back this time in 2012 when I first lit the old beast, but can remember the baro made things so much more controllable and consistent.
But also, mine is a furnace in the basement, so the room air is only mildly heated. I can see your point in a warm living space, but those don’t usually seem to need a baro as badly anyway due to the shorter (and sometimes outside) chimney.
My chimney is probably 30’ and is in the center of the house, so stays warm and drafts VERY well
Joe
- windyhill4.2
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My indoor chimney is only 12-15" from thimble to the top. It can be a low drafter when warmer temps prevail especially with higher humidity, BUT, if i didn't have a baro....... the winds that come freight training thru here overnite would melt my stove b4 morning.With the baro installed, i can leave the primary air set the same nearly 100% of the time.
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Yep, I agree windy. Nice knowing if you leave the house and the wind kicks up, that things will stay steady
Joe
Joe
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Both good examples of why YOU use the baro. Thanks for sharing.