Temp gauge

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 7:27 am

The pic with the infrared thermometer has the damper in the closed position, up/down. Correct?

 
Chubby79
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Post by Chubby79 » Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 7:30 am

I didn't think the photo loaded! The damper shown is the baro damper.. it's set light for the draft, the one I'm talking about is in the pipe

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 7:40 am

Chubby79 wrote:
Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 7:24 am
Yeah, it the in line one just at the rear of the stove.
So, it's at the stove, and stove pipe attaches to it. Correct? It's not one you would buy separately, and install in the pipe after the stove.

 
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Post by Chubby79 » Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 7:41 am

Ooh hahaha no no I don have an ir

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Post by Chubby79 » Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 7:42 am

We replaced ours but it's the one immeiately after the stove

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 7:50 am

Chubby79 wrote:
Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 7:41 am
Ooh hahaha no no I don have an ir
:P :oops: You have it in the horizontal pipe. :lol: You Are Correct!!!! I'm use to installing them in vertical pipe. All is good......... Just didn't want baby sitter to get wrong message. More of a safety concern. You're good to go.

 
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Post by Chubby79 » Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 7:55 am

Lolol I appreciate it, that's why I posted it, new guy teaching someone is sketchy lol I have my father in law an in person walk through but wanted him to have something in print

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Sat. Jan. 06, 2018 8:21 am

.........and all I had to do is go back to the beginning, and look at the picture coaledsweat mentioned. I would have seen that you have no vertical pipe.


 
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keegs
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Post by keegs » Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 5:46 am

lobsterman wrote:
Thu. Jan. 04, 2018 2:02 pm
When I first bought this house I got an antique wood stove and fired it very hot (over fired actually) and was trying to save $2000 per year in heat (had free wood). One side of the house was cold and the other hot. We taped paper strips in every doorway to see which way the air was moving. We found the path of greatest air flow and put a fan on the floor to increase that. Made a 10 degree difference for equalizing the temperatures. Now I don't run the coal stove nearly as hot. I am happy with 68 degrees. My belief is it is always more effective to push cold air to the stove then to try to push warm air away from the stove because the warm air wants to rise.
Morning LM,

I have an 800 sq/ft, ,2 story building that I'm heating with the Chubby. Full basement, one room downstairs, 2 bedrooms and a bath upstairs. The Chubby is in the middle of the first floor against an exterior wall (there's a wood stove in the basement) Most of the warm air going up the stairway to the second floor dumps into the bathroom at the top of the stairs. Eventually it (the warm air) does makes its way to the bedrooms but it takes a while. I put two small registers in the ceiling above the hearth to dump warm air to each of the bedrooms above. They're small registers, maybe 6" x 12" and don't do much. I was thinking of installing a small fan in each register duct.

So here's my question: Would a fan make a difference in this case and which direction would you have the fan blow?

Cheers... Chris K.

 
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Post by Qtown1835 » Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 6:14 am

Move the cold air to the warm air. If all of you heat is ending up in the bathroom, try closing the door. There is probably a reason the heat is seeking the bathroom. Perhaps the fan does not have a damper?

 
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Post by keegs » Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 6:47 am

Morning QT,

Closing the bathroom door helps direct the air flow to the other rooms upstairs but it makes the bathroom cold. Partially closing the bathroom seems to work best. I'm not sure that the heat is seeking the bathroom. It may be that the stairway is acting like a chase, channeling warm air into the bathroom which is at the top of the stairs. It (warm air) will eventually circulate through the other rooms upstairs which can be just as cold before I stoke up the Chubby.

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