Hitzer Max temp

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ncountry
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Post by ncountry » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 7:54 am

I ussualy run my 50 95 at 500 deg when its cold.. after a week of -20 temp and more coming im thinking of turning it up.. What is a safe temp?

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 8:00 am

You can run 600*. 650* would be pushing it............

 
ncountry
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Post by ncountry » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 8:10 am

Thanks, I will tell the gf to turn it up...lol

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 9:15 am

I remember someone here called Hitzer and asked them how hot it could run and were told if they were cold to turn it up :lol: They must not worry about it much.


 
John27elec
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Post by John27elec » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 10:52 am

I have called Hitzer in the past and asked that question i was told exactly that if you cold turn it up! As long as the sides are not red your good !! I asked about the 600F front top corner of the door, i was told you can run it there days on end wont hurt it a bit.

 
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BlackBetty06
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Post by BlackBetty06 » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 2:44 pm

What temperature has your flue pipe been at with the stove at 500? Id also like to know what its at when you crank it to 600. Do you have any kind of damper in your pipe?

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 3:17 pm

Got a MPD that stays at 1/4 closed just cause I live top a hill. Probably really not necessary with HITZER's design plus bi-metallic thermo. Just old school thinkin on the MPD. I came from 40 yrs of burnin wood. Don't have any thermo's. Don't really care--I'm guessin if it gets red I should probably dial down a bit. :)

 
JohnB
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Post by JohnB » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 5:54 pm

BlackBetty06 wrote:
Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 2:44 pm
What temperature has your flue pipe been at with the stove at 500? Id also like to know what its at when you crank it to 600. Do you have any kind of damper in your pipe?
With 500* showing on the thermometer in the upper right front corner I'm seeing 250* or less measured on the pipe 6" behind the stove. This is with a barometric damper pulling .04.


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 5:55 pm

freetown fred wrote:
Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 3:17 pm
Got a MPD that stays at 1/4 closed just cause I live top a hill. Probably really not necessary with HITZER's design plus bi-metallic thermo. Just old school thinkin on the MPD. I came from 40 yrs of burnin wood. Don't have any thermo's. Don't really care--I'm guessin if it gets red I should probably dial down a bit. :)
If someone snuck in your house and stole that MPD you probably would not even notice.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 5:56 pm

John27elec wrote:
Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 10:52 am
I have called Hitzer in the past and asked that question i was told exactly that if you cold turn it up! As long as the sides are not red your good !! I asked about the 600F front top corner of the door, i was told you can run it there days on end wont hurt it a bit.
This question gets asked often. Thanks for sharing the info you got direct from the source.

 
ncountry
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Post by ncountry » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 7:00 pm

BlackBetty06 wrote:
Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 2:44 pm
What temperature has your flue pipe been at with the stove at 500? Id also like to know what its at when you crank it to 600. Do you have any kind of damper in your pipe?
I have mpd, but have left it wide open since installing stove... I figure with a good tight stove air in equals air out why mess with a damper.. With stove at 500 chimney is around 175.. I'm always really surprised with how much heat is pulled from the stove..

 
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BlackBetty06
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Post by BlackBetty06 » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 8:26 pm

I have found that once I do a shake down, especially if ive been burning hard and add a lot of new coal, If I leave my MPD completely open and the Blower OFF to let the stove temp catch up, until the bi metallic satisfies my stove gets hotter than the hinges of hell, the pipe specifically at upwards of 700 degrees (measured with IR, magnetic says 550) and draft pulling -.12. I slam the damper the whole way shut which drops the draft to about -.05 to -.06, the bi metallic makes in a few minutes. I open the damper back up most of the way and turn the blower on and it sits there and runs fine at a draft between -.05 and -.08 depending on wind. Just that initial blow torch after a shake down. Do any of you guys experience this also? I should note the stove is vented into a 25 foot tall 12x12 teracotta chimney but i would think that would slow my draft down. Dont mean to thread hijack

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Sat. Dec. 30, 2017 12:53 am

BlackBetty06 wrote:
Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 8:26 pm
I have found that once I do a shake down, especially if ive been burning hard and add a lot of new coal, If I leave my MPD completely open and the Blower OFF to let the stove temp catch up, until the bi metallic satisfies my stove gets hotter than the hinges of hell, the pipe specifically at upwards of 700 degrees (measured with IR, magnetic says 550) and draft pulling -.12. I slam the damper the whole way shut which drops the draft to about -.05 to -.06, the bi metallic makes in a few minutes. I open the damper back up most of the way and turn the blower on and it sits there and runs fine at a draft between -.05 and -.08 depending on wind. Just that initial blow torch after a shake down. Do any of you guys experience this also? I should note the stove is vented into a 25 foot tall 12x12 teracotta chimney but i would think that would slow my draft down. Dont mean to thread hijack
That's what happens when you let the stove get too far down before tending. Sounds like you have it under control. Another thing you could have done was to lower the back dial till the coal ignited.

The best thing you did was to not have left the stove till all was well. I have had explosions that blew the flapper door up so far that it stuck wide open. I've had it happen on the 30-95, as well as the 50-93. NOT GOOD. After my first experience, I would never leave the stove till I knew all was well. The other times when the flapper door blew up, and stuck, I was there.....

The flapper door on the D.S. is much nicer. It's a thick cast aluminum, hinged on a pin. I don't see how the flapper door on a D.S. could possibly stick open.

Turning the fan off till stove came back up to temp was a good move. Lots of little tricks,

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