It is 0 Deg...

here on this Pa. mountain top. The rumble of the farmer's combine and other equipment is audible from the field of corn next door. It's 6:11 PM and he is working under lights. Glad I am not a farmer especially tonight
Of course the real subject is coal and I have a question/issue that's been bothering me for a while.
As of now, as I said earlier it is 0 Deg. and my Hitzer 50-93 is in it's "sweet spot" with the bimetal control set maintaining 76 Deg. in the large kitchen/ living room of my house. My question goes back a couple years when I read a post here about how to keep the air inlet flap from constantly "tapping". I cannot seem to find that post and was wondering if anyone has had experience with this and what they did to fix it? I can live with it because it is only a minor annoyance considering the overall performance of the stove.
One more thing, My basement DS Machine glass is really frosted on both sides since I flipped it at the beginning of this heating season. Is there a glass rubbing compound that might clean the frost off if not fully but enough to see thru decently?? Just might be easier to pay the price and get new glass. Trying to be cheap only goes so far
Thanks for any advice.

Is the glass actually etched, or can you just take a razor blade and scrape it clean? If it is etched, a polish made of zirconium oxide and water will work, but you will need a pine tar pitch coated "tool" to work the polish across the glass. Tools are often cast of dental plaster.

Whatever you do, do not use sandpaper or emery cloth or steel wool, no matter how fine. You can not sand a clear finish into glass, as that is impossible.

Regarding the flapping:

On the air inlet on my furnace, I put a large paperclip on it. Something on the edge of the door to rest on.......

Larry, thanks for info! Thinking I will do the rest of the season then get a new glass. Just part of burning coal but does not diminish my enthusiasm for burning it.
Nick, from what I can remember of that old post on the air flap clicking I seem to think the author added small amounts of weight to the air flap to stop the tapping but I think it might effect the bi metal's ability to adjust the fire correctly.
If I can install a paper clip to still allow the flap to close completely and buffer the clicking it might be the answer. I will give it a try.

DW, crack your ash door vents about a 16th--maybe an eighth.

freetown fred wrote: ↑

Thu. Dec. 28, 2017 7:47 pm

DW, crack your ash door vents about a 16th--maybe an eighth.

Hey Fred so good to hear from you!! I have been running at "half moon" and will choke her down some more on your sage advice

A slight adjustment to the magnet on the stove side of the flap should take care of it.

Member "Stoker Don" installed a draw bridge type protective plate on a hinge for his glass in one of his stokers recently. I'm eager to see how it works out.

I had the tapping flap syndrome, and experimented with a magnet as a solution. The ultimate fix (which I learned on this forum) was to bend the flap slightly so that it could not square to the inlet. It doesn’t take much, and it’s been so quiet since that I had forgotten about the problem until I saw this post!

Well done!

Rich W. wrote: ↑

Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 7:44 pm

I had the tapping flap syndrome, and experimented with a magnet as a solution. The ultimate fix (which I learned on this forum) was to bend the flap slightly so that it could not square to the inlet. It doesn’t take much, and it’s been so quiet since that I had forgotten about the problem until I saw this post!

Inside the primary air inlet is a magnet just for that purpose. Adjust so it barely holds the flapper from tapping. You don't want too much magnetic pull on the flapper. Too much pull will hold the flapper door closed for too long, cooling the stove too much. THEN, when it pulls off the magnet, the stove will roar till stove mass is up to temp. You don't want that. All you want is just enough magnetic pull to stop the tapping.

That being said; a slight bend in the flapper door is creative. I can see how a very slight bend would work. You could always bend it back. Still, that's what the magnet is for. I'd use the magnet.

oliver power wrote: ↑

Sat. Dec. 30, 2017 12:18 am

Inside the primary air inlet is a magnet just for that purpose. Adjust so it barely holds the flapper from tapping. You don't want too much magnetic pull on the flapper. Too much pull will hold the flapper door closed for too long, cooling the stove too much. THEN, when it pulls off the magnet, the stove will roar till stove mass is up to temp. You don't want that. All you want is just enough magnetic pull to stop the tapping

Interesting! I am not aware of an adjustable magnet such as this on either my 1400 or my 2310. I’ll have to inspect. My magnet solution, ultimately abandoned, was a dime size puck magnet that I simply attached to the center of the flap to give it more heft. Being weighted made it tougher for the draft to flutter it. It worked, but I became concerned that if the flap were open enough the magnet might be attracted to the thermostat cover nearby, and hold the flap wide open! That, of course, would be a problem!

Neither the 2310, nor the 1400 have any magnet that I know of. Both; the HITZER 30-95, and the 50-93 have magnets. Look/feel at the ceiling of the air inlet at stove side of flapper door. Unless someone took it off, it's there. Kind of finicky to adjust. Once you get it, it's done.