Warm Morning Firebrick removal?
- ASea
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Just curious how to safely remove my firebrick? I'd like to remove them so I can bring the stove to the basement without getting killed. I was out looking at the stove and they don't seem to want to pull out of their spot. I imagine it is very straightforward and should be immediately obvious. I would really love to have a manual to refer to.
Thanks!
Andrew
Thanks!
Andrew
- michaelanthony
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IIRC, you need to remove the top of the stove possibly the load door part. Then the bricks slide up and out, I believe they interlock one layer at a time. Also take notes as to where each block's location is for assembly.
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all the bricks have beveled edges and lock each other in place you can not remove any one of them by trying to force it to the center of the stove.
it is correct that you will have to remove the full cast top in order to get the first of any of them out. even with the top off as has been said you need to be very careful not to drop and break them or let any you don't have ahold of to fall inside the stove and break.
those radius bricks that are between the big side chimney bricks will cost you $80+ each unless you can make a mold off an intact one and cast another then cure it for use. the chimney bricks can not be bought at any price, you'll have to mold and cast one from the other or find a parts stove with decent ones which, is even harder to do than finding the one you have, most of these stoves show up trashed.
if you look under the lip of the cast top you will see 3 screw or bolt heads, one on each side of the door and one in back. open the load door and use a flash light to located the nuts on the other side. if the nuts won't break loose you will need to either drill in from the heads or use a dremel and cut off wheel to take off the nuts. be careful not to grind thru the barrel.
once you have the top off, lift one of the top row of radius bricks and keeping your hand on the others around it,lift it out and lay it down carefully. it'll be best if you have help.
when you have the bricks out you can lift the grates and outer support ring straight out too. from that point one guy can usually pick up the stove body on his own and take it about anywhere he and the stove will fit.
you can go thru all this or, get an appliance dolly with a strap and secure the stove on it and with help so you don't bounce it down the stairs and break the bricks any way, take the stove down intact.
alittle long winded but going in fully informed is always better than a wing and a prayer.
steve
it is correct that you will have to remove the full cast top in order to get the first of any of them out. even with the top off as has been said you need to be very careful not to drop and break them or let any you don't have ahold of to fall inside the stove and break.
those radius bricks that are between the big side chimney bricks will cost you $80+ each unless you can make a mold off an intact one and cast another then cure it for use. the chimney bricks can not be bought at any price, you'll have to mold and cast one from the other or find a parts stove with decent ones which, is even harder to do than finding the one you have, most of these stoves show up trashed.
if you look under the lip of the cast top you will see 3 screw or bolt heads, one on each side of the door and one in back. open the load door and use a flash light to located the nuts on the other side. if the nuts won't break loose you will need to either drill in from the heads or use a dremel and cut off wheel to take off the nuts. be careful not to grind thru the barrel.
once you have the top off, lift one of the top row of radius bricks and keeping your hand on the others around it,lift it out and lay it down carefully. it'll be best if you have help.
when you have the bricks out you can lift the grates and outer support ring straight out too. from that point one guy can usually pick up the stove body on his own and take it about anywhere he and the stove will fit.
you can go thru all this or, get an appliance dolly with a strap and secure the stove on it and with help so you don't bounce it down the stairs and break the bricks any way, take the stove down intact.
alittle long winded but going in fully informed is always better than a wing and a prayer.
steve
- ASea
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Awesome!This is a huge help.
- ASea
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I'm going to rent an appliance dolly and take it down with that.
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a REAL stout and sure footed helper will be required or 2 slightly lighter ones.
either way well worth all the beer they might demand.
steve
either way well worth all the beer they might demand.
steve
- ASea
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- Coal Size/Type: Sherman Anthracite Nut/Stove from C&T Coal
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-
- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
well it's all about rightly assessing abilities and trust factors.
if it was me, i'd have them at the top of the dolly to keep it as low as possible and not flip up and me at the bottom to control the timing and velocity of the decent.
the new dollies have those belt tracks on the back side at the bottom, keeping the unit as low as possible or flat on the steps you can avoid the drop on to each tread as you go down, just slide down and stand it up at the bottom.IF you can keep it moving slowly enough to back down each step yourself.
i generally stay 2 steps or more below the bottom of the dolly so i have a stance to push against the progress for control and it's easier to jump out of the way if something unintended happens
even with replacing or repairing stove parts as needed it's far smarter than risking saving it and ending up busted up yourself.
if you have solid framing at the top of the stairs you can mount pulleys on each side up there, fasten ropes to the dolly handles and take the loose ends all the way down to the bottom and pay out the slack to bring it down to you.
lots of options, best of luck
steve
if it was me, i'd have them at the top of the dolly to keep it as low as possible and not flip up and me at the bottom to control the timing and velocity of the decent.
the new dollies have those belt tracks on the back side at the bottom, keeping the unit as low as possible or flat on the steps you can avoid the drop on to each tread as you go down, just slide down and stand it up at the bottom.IF you can keep it moving slowly enough to back down each step yourself.
i generally stay 2 steps or more below the bottom of the dolly so i have a stance to push against the progress for control and it's easier to jump out of the way if something unintended happens
even with replacing or repairing stove parts as needed it's far smarter than risking saving it and ending up busted up yourself.
if you have solid framing at the top of the stairs you can mount pulleys on each side up there, fasten ropes to the dolly handles and take the loose ends all the way down to the bottom and pay out the slack to bring it down to you.
lots of options, best of luck
steve
Last edited by KingCoal on Sat. Dec. 16, 2017 9:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
- windyhill4.2
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- ASea
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"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" its a quote though I dont recall who from.windyhill4.2 wrote: ↑Sat. Dec. 16, 2017 8:51 amI have never even drank 1 beer in my life...
BUT, from what i have observed, it would be best if you avoid drinking that stinky stuff until AFTER the job is done.
- lsayre
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It is often attributed to Ben Franklin, but what he actually said was:
Whomever corrupted this into a beer quote should have been awarded a Nobel Prize.Behold the rain which descends from heaven upon our vineyards; there it enters the roots of the vines, to be changed into wine; a constant proof that God loves us, and loves to see us happy.