I moved my 2310 to the basement and did a stupid thing, well actually 2. I failed to oil the air control lever during the off season. I was stripping down the stove for the move and snapped the air control off. Of course it broke practically flush with cast iron back. I ordered a replacement control for about $34 bucks and it arrived in 3 days. I drilled and tapped a hole a quarter inch below the manufacturers hole and good to go...so please oil moving parts on a schedule to save you the aggravation!
Also oil the 4 screws around the back of the stove. The top right one holds the control lever shield in place. I think the 4 screws are there for adding the heat shield that V.C. sells for close tolerances to combustibles
I drilled a new hole for the bi-metal heat shield so it could be lowered a quarter of an inch as well as the bi-metal control...and yes that is a new screw holding the heat shield because I had to drill out the screw and tap that as well!
Attention Vigilant Owners
- michaelanthony
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- freetown fred
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Ya been busy!!
- michaelanthony
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hahaha your being kind, if it ain't 1 thing it's 3 others.
- drums4money
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I'm with you on this.
The stove I inherited with the home has had two intake arms broken off flush. I drilled & tapped for a new arm/thermostat. The screw holding the cover in place was also stripped, so I also had to take the head off and tap/thread that one.
I've been fidgeting with the flapper this evening. It doesn't seem to want to drop into the fully closed position even when the chain is completely slack. That was contributing to my temp racing up.
The education continues.
The stove I inherited with the home has had two intake arms broken off flush. I drilled & tapped for a new arm/thermostat. The screw holding the cover in place was also stripped, so I also had to take the head off and tap/thread that one.
I've been fidgeting with the flapper this evening. It doesn't seem to want to drop into the fully closed position even when the chain is completely slack. That was contributing to my temp racing up.
The education continues.
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It is normal for the air flap to be wide open when cold, even at minimum setting. It really does not get much heat until the damper is rotated to the upright position which channels heat to the sides and back.drums4money wrote: ↑Sun. Dec. 03, 2017 8:24 pmI've been fidgeting with the flapper this evening. It doesn't seem to want to drop into the fully closed position even when the chain is completely slack. That was contributing to my temp racing up.
In the open position or direct vent it will take a very long time for heat to build up enough at the back to effect the thermostat coil.
With a slack chain the normal position of the flap is slightly open by gravity. Strong draft with a hot stove will suck it completely closed.
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- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
My thermostat arm broke last year too. I was able to run a thread on what was left and drill and tap the original location. It worked OK last winter, but I had to leave off the friction spring because there was no longer room for it. Friction on the heat shield was enough to hold setting. A shot of WD40 at end of season should keep it free.
I think the problem is the hole is exposed to combustion ash which corrodes the arm thread. The casting should have had a thicker spot there so the hole could be blind.
I think the problem is the hole is exposed to combustion ash which corrodes the arm thread. The casting should have had a thicker spot there so the hole could be blind.