Question About Unburned Coal When Using Coal and Wood

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:21 am

The easy way would be to just put a rectangular hole in the load door with a shutter that can be slid back and forth to control the amount of secondary air allowed into the stove. The more challenging way is to make secondary air tubes that run down each side of the fire box. Either way, I would also advise putting in a window so you can see what's going on in there. I've done all this and a lot more with mine lol.

Of course there is also the option of selling the stove as is and investing in a "real" coal stove. It depends on your passion I guess hahaha. I don't wanna push anyone to make irreversible modifications. I bought my stove second hand so I didn't mind doing all these things. It's paid for itself at least 15 times by now.

 
Jgib4
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Post by Jgib4 » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:28 am

Lightning wrote:
Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:21 am
The easy way would be to just put a rectangular hole in the load door with a shutter that can be slid back and forth to control the amount of secondary air allowed into the stove. The more challenging way is to make secondary air tubes that run down each side of the fire box. Either way, I would also advise putting in a window so you can see what's going on in there. I've done all this and a lot more with mine lol.

Of course there is also the option of selling the stove as is and investing in a "real" coal stove. It depends on your passion I guess hahaha. I don't wanna push anyone to make irreversible modifications. I bought my stove second hand so I didn't mind doing all these things. It's paid for itself at least 15 times by now.
I’ve thought about the sight class before but it has such a nice looking door haha.
I bought it brand new last year so this is only my second year using it.
Also if adding the secondary air on the door wouldn’t that defeat the purpose of blocking the others off inside it with insulation. Wouldn’t you just be creating more air over the coal which is what we don’t want?

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:30 am

What was last season like? Just curious.


 
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Post by Jgib4 » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:32 am

freetown fred wrote:
Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:30 am
What was last season like? Just curious.
Easy but I only burned wood. Went through 3 cords and only burned from the third week in December to the end of February. Problem was as much wood as I added at night I could never get it to last more then 6-8 hours.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:37 am

Jgib4 wrote:
Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:28 am
Also if adding the secondary air on the door wouldn’t that defeat the purpose of blocking the others off inside it with insulation
That's a very good question, and the answer is no. Having the the fire box sealed with insulation gives you independent control of the secondary air. The way it is from the factory there is no control of the secondary air and the passages just divert primary air around the grates - no good.

 
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Post by Jgib4 » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:40 am

Lightning wrote:
Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:37 am
That's a very good question, and the answer is no. Having the the fire box sealed with insulation gives you independent control of the secondary air. The way it is from the factory there is no control of the secondary air and the passages just divert primary air around the grates - no good.
So you do want secondary air? Would unplugging one of the smaller holes be helpful?


 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 10:12 am

Jgib4 wrote:
Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:40 am
So you do want secondary air? Would unplugging one of the smaller holes be helpful?
More secondary air is important for the first few hours of the burn, it helps burn the hydrocarbon gases that are being baked out of the coal while the fresh load is being heated AND it will help prevent the infamous puff back. Less secondary air is important after that, to help carbon MONoxide burn into carbon DIoxide. Most "real" (LOL) coal stoves have a provision for FIXED secondary air, but all "anthracite only" stoves have a sealed firebox. Like I mentioned earlier, the sealed firebox is the fundamental difference between a wood stove and an anthracite coal stove.

Unplugging a hole might help, but you won't reach the full potential of anthracite without having all of the bypasses completely sealed and have a source of independent secondary air. Unplugging a hole would be like putting a Band-Aid on a severed artery. That's my take on it, but I'm a little fickle about stuff :lol:

 
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Post by Jgib4 » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 11:34 am

Lightning wrote:
Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 10:12 am
More secondary air is important for the first few hours of the burn, it helps burn the hydrocarbon gases that are being baked out of the coal while the fresh load is being heated AND it will help prevent the infamous puff back. Less secondary air is important after that, to help carbon MONoxide burn into carbon DIoxide. Most "real" (LOL) coal stoves have a provision for FIXED secondary air, but all "anthracite only" stoves have a sealed firebox. Like I mentioned earlier, the sealed firebox is the fundamental difference between a wood stove and an anthracite coal stove.

Unplugging a hole might help, but you won't reach the full potential of anthracite without having all of the bypasses completely sealed and have a source of independent secondary air. Unplugging a hole would be like putting a Band-Aid on a severed artery. That's my take on it, but I'm a little fickle about stuff :lol:
For now could I unplug one during the first few hours then replug it when I go to check on it.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 12:36 pm

Jgib4 wrote:
Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 11:34 am
For now could I unplug one during the first few hours then replug it when I go to check on it.
Sure, try that. :)

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