manometer s next

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Den034071
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Post by Den034071 » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 4:57 pm

Installed Dwyer mano set the 2 zeros fire is 450 in stove an flue pipe is 235 .Drilled the hole in flue My Reading Is .07 .Now what .Please your comments

 
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coaledsweat
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 5:18 pm

Do you have a barometric damper? If so, adjust it back to -.05 and see what happens. That's a strong draft, probably more than you need.

 
Den034071
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Post by Den034071 » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 6:28 pm

Yes hace a baro the R C unit .


 
KingCoal
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Post by KingCoal » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 7:12 pm

jack did you install an MPD in the flue along with the Baro ?

 
Den034071
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Post by Den034071 » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 9:06 pm

Yep have both .All new to me a batch fed stove . jack

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 9:27 pm

No pictures so I just want to make sure your baro is above your MPD. Its dangerous the other way.


 
corey
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Post by corey » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 3:03 pm

I like to run mine .03 to .05 tuned with my mpd. When mine hits .07 it's usually going to cook me out the house from the heat.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Nov. 26, 2017 6:54 am

Every stove and chimney system draft ability varies. Plus, where you install the mano probe can show different readings than someone with the exact same stove and their probe in a different place. But what's common amongst them all is that you want the lowest mano reading that gives you the warmth you need.

The mano numbers are an indication of draft strength that is sending heat up the chimney. More heat causes a stronger draft, therefore higher mano numbers. Obviously, you want to keep as much heat in the house as possible, but you still need to give some heat to the chimney system to maintain a enough draft to keep a steady fire.

Try adjusting the baro to get the lowest mano reading, without the stove slowing down. That's a baseline that tells you that any less draft and the stove wants to run too slow. Then experiment with increasing the mano readings to where it's consistently putting out the amount of heat you want. That's the draft "sweet spot" for your stove and chimney system.

From that sweet spot point you can fine tune the heat output using just the primary and MPD to bump the mano readings up or down if you need heat changes, and the baro will maintain that.

Paul

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