Will Not Burn Coal Well

 
NoSmoke
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Post by NoSmoke » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 6:35 am

Yep I bet that is it exactly!

I am getting an awful lot of creosote, but I thought that was just stemming from me burning green softwood. I never liked the single wall pipe, but I dislike dollars coming out of my wallet more.


 
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stovepipemike
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Post by stovepipemike » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 7:22 am

If you could see your way clear to invest in a manometer [they are not that costly] it would prove once and for all what needs to happen to make that lovely stove work hard for you. Mike

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 7:58 am

joeq wrote:
Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 11:07 pm
Good analogy Paul. I'ld prefer a spark plug in the tailpipe. :yes:
And also install a hand choke. Ka-boom ! :o

I wonder if that'd also clear a chimney out ! :lol:

Paul

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 8:10 am

NoSmoke wrote:
Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 6:35 am
Yep I bet that is it exactly!

I am getting an awful lot of creosote, but I thought that was just stemming from me burning green softwood. I never liked the single wall pipe, but I dislike dollars coming out of my wallet more.

Single wall pipe + green softwood, is about the best way to get a build up of creosote in the pipe, unless you run that stove so hot the firepot glows. Then your throwing wood in a few times an hour. Been there !!!! :o

Paul

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 9:06 am

NoSmoke wrote:
Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 6:35 am
Yep I bet that is it exactly!

I am getting an awful lot of creosote, but I thought that was just stemming from me burning green softwood. I never liked the single wall pipe, but I dislike dollars coming out of my wallet more.
On the outside chimney, you can try slipping 8 inch pipe over the 6 inch. Near each end of the 8 inch pipe take 3, one inch self tapping screws equally spaced around the circumference of the pipe. stay away from the crimps and slip ends so you can attach them to get the 14 ft. If you start at the bottom of your chimney you can use a 6 inch decorative ring that normally covers the hole made in a wall. The ring can be held in place with 3 screws beneath it close to the 90 elbow out side of the house. The 1 inch space can be filled with vermiculite and the decorative ring on the bottom will hold the vermiculite in place. I hope I explained this properly.

Mike

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 4:34 pm

wow! That sounds like a great idea Mike. If nothing more, it would be a cheap alternative, and a good experiment.

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 5:36 pm

joeq wrote:
Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 4:34 pm
wow! That sounds like a great idea Mike. If nothing more, it would be a cheap alternative, and a good experiment.
Thanks joeq...it is also a great way to make a heat shield for close tolerances. If you do it again with 10 inch pipe you now have a triple. ;)


 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 7:19 pm

Hmmmm, wonder what would happen if you put 12" pipe over the 10"? :annoyed:

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 8:49 pm

joeq wrote:
Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 7:19 pm
Hmmmm, wonder what would happen if you put 12" pipe over the 10"? :annoyed:
Quatrrro...wanna' play Morta!??

 
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Pauliewog
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Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 11:51 pm

joeq wrote:
Thu. Nov. 16, 2017 7:19 pm
Hmmmm, wonder what would happen if you put 12" pipe over the 10"? :annoyed:
You will have to pour a concrete footer and pier to hold it up. :D

Paulie

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Fri. Nov. 17, 2017 11:38 am

NoSmoke wrote:
Mon. Nov. 13, 2017 6:34 am
No, there is no real chimney, the stove pipe just turns upwards and goes above the roof. No masonry or triple wall chimney, just single wall pipe.

No clean out, it is just a 90 degree elbow so from stove to top of the chimney it is sealed well.
Okay, two real issues I see with this setup.

1) Single wall "chimney" exposed to elements will quite often cool too much, causing weak draft issues, possibly downdrafts, and certainly for wood- creosote issues.

2) No cleanout on chimney. At minimum, use a Tee at the bottom with a cap. All the stuff that falls down the chimney has to have somewhere to go or it can clog the stovepipe/chimney.

Risks from a too-cool chimney and no cleanout include creosote flue fires, poor drafting and smoke/CO/other gases backup into house, reduction of flue pipe due to debris collecting in the pipe, and rapid deterioration of the pipe due to excessive moisture and other issues.

All this is made much worse by burning green wood.

I am not a doom and gloom guy. The risks and danger are yours to choose. The poor performance is a symptom of the chimney/installation problems.

I have seen single wall "chimneys" surrounded by a non-flammable chase to help prevent wind related cooling off, but can't speak to the code legalities or safety of it.

Getting a proper chimney arranged will certainly reduce the risks and should help with your firing frustrations.

 
NoSmoke
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Post by NoSmoke » Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 6:09 am

I am a big fan of cleaning out the chimney, so I do that about once every 2 weeks if i am burning wood. To me that is just safe, but if I make the chimney easy to clean out, it is not a big deal and gets done more too.

The guys over on the wood burning forum are great guys, but like to thumb their noses at others who do not put up wood years ahead of time. Well you guys know me, I got hundreds of acres and cut hundreds of cords of wood per year, so I just grab a half cord before the sun goes down on the way out of the woods and burn that for the next month. My house is super insulated so it is not like I need a roaring fire; I just hate having to light a fire every morning, and so a low, slow fire keeps this house comfortable just fine. There are tricks to burning wood right off the stump, like species and letting the low moisture inside the house dry it, but my days of cutting 25 full cord per winter are over!

DO NOT GET ME WRONG: I prefer coal and will burn coal, but it has been a warm autumn and so I have been just burning wood of late to stay warm. When it gets cold I'll switch back to coal, but for now cedar, spruce and hemlock put heat in the house.

I actually scolded the guys pretty hard this morning on that forum for being judgemental on the way people burn wood. I used the example of outside wood boiler guys who use a cheap heat source to keep their home warm, when they could take the same $10,000 they spend for the appliance and instead use it to improve insulation, doors and windows. Granted R-30 walls are not cool compared to a gleaming Sytem 80,000 outside wood boiler and the 80 cords needed to churn through it, but my point was made. They think I am silly for burning green wood, and I think they are silly for having to do 30 processes to get dry wood when my 5 steps keeps my super insulated house just as warm with my pot bellied stove.

I know not everyone is in this situation; land to gather ample wood, equipment to easily get it, and (2) adults home 24/7 to feed the stove, but for us it works.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 7:16 am

I don't blame the wood guys for giving you a hard time. Burning green wood in a pot belly stove with stove pipe for a chimney is about as bad as it gets.

Get a proper chimney, burn coal this year, and put up some wood to season. Next year you can sell 20% of the wood, since you won't be wasting it trying to burn off all the moisture.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 7:27 am

Bad as it gets indeed--not only green but burning the most creosote prone wood out there--sounds to me like ya best get your system done RIGHT in case the Mrs & kids are on their own doin all the home heating at some point. Nothin wrong with positive planning--YES--get off your butt & put up a real chimney!! :o

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 8:37 am

NoSmoke wrote:
Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 6:09 am




I actually scolded the guys pretty hard this morning on that forum for being judgemental on the way people burn wood. I used the example of outside wood boiler guys who use a cheap heat source to keep their home warm, when they could take the same $10,000 they spend for the appliance and instead use it to improve insulation, doors and windows. Granted R-30 walls are not cool compared to a gleaming Sytem 80,000 outside wood boiler and the 80 cords needed to churn through it, but my point was made. They think I am silly for burning green wood, and I think they are silly for having to do 30 processes to get dry wood when my 5 steps keeps my super insulated house just as warm with my pot bellied stove.
WOW, you scolded THEM for being judgemental ??????????????????????
Are your mirrors all painted black ?????
In 2006,i invested in a heating system for 2 houses,along with domestic hot water for the 2 houses + heat for my repair shop..
I invested around $11,000 for the entire system,including an OUTDOOR WOOD BURNER..
The OWB turned out to be a bad choice but it did provide the needed heat for 8 yrs..
I then replaced the wood burning unit with a coal fired stoker boiler & hooked it into the existing system already in place..
SURE, i could have spent the same amount of money or even more to upgrade all the buildings to topnotch windows & insulation...... but windows & insulation do not provide heat.... i needed a heating system, not efficient windows & walls.

THEY think you are silly for burning green wood.... THEY are not alone..
I have burnt between 250-300 full cords of wood.... & i think you are beyond silly... you are being stupid ..
If all was as well as you think it is with your heating setup,why did you start this thread ??

Time to wake up !!


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