chubby questions

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 1:03 pm

True windyhill! Thanks for clarifying. I didn't want to confuse the op.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 1:38 pm

Lee, in all seriousness, I agree 100% but there are so many au-natural methods to get a stove runnin properly, I'm an advocate (cool word) of trying that route. Then---get all the gadgets ya want cause they are pretty to look at..
Lightning wrote:
Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 11:49 am
Com on Fred, gadgets are fun! You should take the plunge lol you don't know what yer missin :lol:

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 2:49 pm

I use one of these...no permanent install to look at and it's portable so you can check other chimneys!

https://www.mybacharach.com/product-view/draftrite/

 
mof1964
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Post by mof1964 » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 6:21 am

First I must say that I find this Chubby stove a huge asset even if I never get it throttled back in temp.
yesterday morning I loaded the stove at 6am and didn't have to do anything to it till last night at 9pm. probably could have gone longer but my pillow was calling my name. The stove temp after 15hrs was still over 400 .

so after I tended the stove and filled her up a heaping in the pot I opened the 2 little air holes on the side. This morning my temp is reading 300. I'm gonna let them open today and see what happens.

Also gonna order the manometer today.

Mitch

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Thu. Nov. 09, 2017 8:31 am

Having a hot house is always better than a cold house. You can always open a window to let heat out. Im glad opening the little vents helped cool her down a little.

 
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keegs
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Post by keegs » Mon. Nov. 20, 2017 2:46 pm

I'm having a similar experience to Mitch with my Chubby.

i don't have a manometer but my sense is that the chimney draft is strong. The vertical run of the chimney is about 30 ft. and the house is in an open field. With no trees nearby there's generally at least a breeze blowing.

I have a Ventis barometric damper installed half way up the vertical run to the chimney thimble (about a 40" vertical run) and the OEM manual damper on the horizontal run out of the back of the stove. The gaskets on the doors and top casting are new. With the manual damper closed and the ash door vents opened a crack (1/8-1/4 inch) the thermometer (mounted on the side of the stove above the closed over-the-fire vent) fluctuates anywhere from 200 to 800 degrees.

I'm not sure that the baro is installed correctly. I'm not familiar with the Ventis design. They use a weighted disk on one side of the damper plate and a thumb screw on the other. As it is now, the thumb screw is on the outside of the plate and the disk is on the inside. It can be reversed. The baro came with no installation instructions and I can't find a website.

This is what the Ventis baro looks like:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1206/7924/produ ... 1499549855

Can anyone confirm how the Ventis baro damper weight should be installed?

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Mon. Nov. 20, 2017 10:00 pm

The thumb knob is for you to turn for adjusting,it belongs out towards you,weight goes on the inside.


 
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keegs
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Post by keegs » Tue. Nov. 21, 2017 6:23 am

Thanks WH4... I found this image on the northline express website that shows/confirms the baro assembly.
Image

 
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captcaper
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Post by captcaper » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 3:57 am

mof1964 wrote:
Wed. Nov. 08, 2017 9:22 am
I set my stove up maybe 5 years ago according to the video and I talked with Larry on the phone.
I do not have a manometer on this stove but I have one on my stoker in the basement and I know with that manometer that I have a very strong draft going. The wind seems to come right down the hill, so strong that if I have family room door open to the garage and open the overhead garage door, it will pull the family room door shut. I am burning kimmels nut coal and that's all I have burned since getting the stove. I have not tried other brands. Kimmels is available to me in bags locally.

by saying the fire almost goes out, I mean letting it burn long and build lots of ash and not shaking much, the thermometer on the stove would say 100 or 125ish if I poke it just a bit and add coal then fill to top of pot -- which I always do, I have a heaping mound, only then can I get it at 300 to 350ish.

Mitch

If I remember when I burned my Chubby I would have to shake/poke it often to keep the air flow going to keep a hot fire. And if you both in the same flue then it won't take much to effect the air flow thru the Chubby. The baro on the stoker would do it and coupled with the draft the stoker uses as well.
With hand fired stoves you need at least 4 inches of red coals to have a decent fire. Anthracite's nature. Softer Coal you need 8 inches of Red coals. A stoker has forced air into it..different beast.

 
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ASea
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Post by ASea » Wed. Nov. 29, 2017 8:25 pm

Mine is pretty easy to control I have a barometric damper which is a huge help. The main thing I find is to replace the gaskets every other year. I order the kit from Larry at Chubby Coal Stove. His gasket material is better than the stuff at the hardware stores. There is a gasket under the Iron cover of the stove if that hasnt ever been replaced that might be a good idea to replace it. Feel free to call Larry or email him, he's great to deal with.

 
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ASea
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Post by ASea » Thu. Nov. 30, 2017 8:21 am

Also I've found different brands of Coal burn at different temperatures. I was burning Kimmels nut and that burned very hot. Reading didn't burn as hot and left allot of clinkers. Now I'm burning Sherman Coal doesn't seem to burn super hot which is fine by me and burns to a fine powder ash. Also in the months when it's not super cold 30-40 I burn stove coal.

 
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Logs
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Post by Logs » Thu. Nov. 30, 2017 11:27 am

ASea says
Mine is pretty easy to control I have a barometric damper which is a huge help. The main thing I find is to replace the gaskets every other year.

Is it really necessary to replace the gaskets that often? I’ve had my Chubby going on 5 years and see no need to replace them yet. Unless you are really heating it up. I keep mine cruising between 350-450 .

 
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Post by Larry T. » Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 6:43 am

Hi Mitch!
Where its early in the season (temp wise) you may be trying to slow your stove down after establishing a very hot fire. When the temps stay well under 50 you will find it much easier to slow your fire. Try making your adjustments when your stove is burning around 400 degrees this time of year. You'll find it easier to keep it burning where you want that way. Also in the next week or two when it gets cold consistently this situation will likely disappear. The colder it gets the easier it is to control solid fuel burning stoves. Best Mitch
LT -
Hope everyone had a relaxing and prosperous offseason. Be well

 
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keegs
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Post by keegs » Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 7:42 pm

This is my first season heating the place with the Chubby. Outdoor temp is in the thirties, indoor it's seventy four. Can I use the level of ash underneath the burning coal as a way to control the burn?

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 8:00 pm

You know not to let ash pile up in the ash pan right?


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