Hooked up, running

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wilder11354
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Posts: 1221
Joined: Sat. Jan. 29, 2011 10:48 pm
Location: Montrose, Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF260 Boiler
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: nut or pea, anthracite
Other Heating: crown oil boiler, backup.if needed

Post by wilder11354 » Sun. Oct. 22, 2017 9:43 pm

Finally after 3 days of asking Gran sons, they got off thier playful lazy butts help me bring it to wheres itsg gonna sit. hooked up flue pipe, first attempt to fire it up failed, then got charcoal, and fire starters...that seems to have lit, bi-metaliac adjuster just seems to be weird...gonna get a new one. Ash door vents, barely cracked.. box temp above upper door hinge 200* f, flue about 130* after an hour and half. Yes its warm out, do these temps sound good for keeping it running? back air doors about 1/8 inch open,beds still build its base fire.
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freetown fred
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Posts: 30293
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Mon. Oct. 23, 2017 3:43 am

Weird how? Bi-metallic seems open to much--1/8" would be good for idling--looks more like 1/2" in pix. All else sounds good. Now you're just gonna have to play with settings.


 
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wilder11354
Member
Posts: 1221
Joined: Sat. Jan. 29, 2011 10:48 pm
Location: Montrose, Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF260 Boiler
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: nut or pea, anthracite
Other Heating: crown oil boiler, backup.if needed

Post by wilder11354 » Mon. Oct. 23, 2017 6:14 pm

Bi-Metallic rear vent door adjuster... has a LOT of turning init before adjusting door, maybe 4>6 numbers before it pulls on chain(tensions chain).Remember i had to replace grates for sever warpage, and grate frame for same reason. I think bi-metallic is also having issues because of overheat. Rather put a new bi-metallic spring in and know for sure when i do run harder its not going to give me great temp control adjusting issues.
Still holding about 200*f on firebox.... can see embers in coal. How hard, long to shake grates? how often to empty ash pan...? Know if ash builds up to much.... fire will snuff because of lack of base air feed at idle.
with it running been keeping door between old part of house to new part...GF says oil boiler for main house has hardly run at all today.... So resdiual heat is crossing to new house... open door, wall transfer. :D

 
KingCoal
Member
Posts: 4837
Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
Location: Elkhart county, IN.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
Other Heating: none

Post by KingCoal » Mon. Oct. 23, 2017 8:19 pm

try turning the dial all the way to zero and take up the slack in the chain with the adjuster till it's just about to open the flap.

from there you should see it open by the time you get to # 1 or soon after if the stove is warmer than that already.

shake grates with short, quick strokes till you see red embers in the ash pan.

don't let ashes build till they touch the grates EVER or you will be replacing them again, that's how they got that way the first time.

i'm sure you're going to like the stove it has a well earned reputation for simplicity and performance.

steve

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