7 Inch Stove Pipe?

I'm rapidly finding out that 7 inch stove pipe is going the way of the dinosaurs.....at least I can't find any easily.....and I need almost eight feet. My only other plan is to have some 20 gauge rolled with a simple lap seam (the shop can't form a snap seam) and then assemble it, using steel pop rivets. Furnace cement would be used along the seam to make sure it's sealed. Heck, I might even braze it full length. This would be in two 4' pieces with the usual crimped ends. A lot of work, but I'd end up with a pretty heavy duty chimney.

Am I chasing my tail here or is there a supplier of good, heavy 7 inch pipe out there?

Is this is for the cannon heater ? If so, you could use a reducer down to 6 inch pipe, or up to 8 inch pipe. Some of the 16 inch firepot stoves used a 5 inch pipe, so stepping down to a 6 inch pipe shouldn't choke that cannon heater.

Many of the kitchen ranges and some parlor stoves used a 7 inch oval that the first length of pipe was tapered to 6 inch. There are some stove shops that sell 7 inch to 6 inch tapered pipe. Bryant Stove in Maine is one shop. If you use the search box, there's a couple of other shops that members have posted about having 7 to 6 tapered pipe made.

http://www.bryantstove.com/parts.html

Paul

Paul, thank you so much! That means I can use my existing stove pipe (after a careful inspection). I was concerned that the pipe had to match the stove for proper operation, but since I'll probably have it throttled down most of the time it should work well.

An HVAC supply house should have a 7" commercial product in stock.

This is good stuff, can be found elsewhere..

https://www.northlineexpress.com/7-x-48-heatfab-single-wall-black-stovepipe-2708b-5205.html

3006guns wrote:Paul, thank you so much! That means I can use my existing stove pipe (after a careful inspection). I was concerned that the pipe had to match the stove for proper operation, but since I'll probably have it throttled down most of the time it should work well.

It can actually be an advantage to downsize the pipe. I burned wood most of my life, with a taller chimney, like from a basement furnace through a two story house and attic, the smaller flue will draft harder and still flow the same cfm. The higher velocity kept the the chimney warmer which helps maintain a strong draft and eliminate creosote. In a shorter chimney the reduced pipe will limit the stove's capacity, which could be ok if it is too big to start with and you have dry wood. Also be careful of backdrafting and install a good CO detector, which you need regardless.

If your local TSC can not get coal, ask the store in Reno if they can drop ship you a pallet. 360 miles round trip plus paying full retail could be a deal breaker, unless you have other business in that area. If the numbers don't work, maybe look at a better wood stove. I heated a large old farmhouse with 40 single pane windows with a forced air furnace. I added wood every 8-10 hours, even when temps were single digit, Fahrenheit. The automatic thermostat kept the entire house toasty. Don't sell your pine wood short. The pine resin actually adds BTU output, and pine dries very quick. Around here everyone says "Burning pine will ruin your chimney!", so I did them a favor and let them dump their pine logs here instead of paying at the landfill. It takes a bigger pile than dense hardwood, and I always ran a hot fire first thing every morning anyway, but it heats just fine. Wood fiber produces about 3,500 btu/lb, regardless of species.

top top wrote:

3006guns wrote:Paul, thank you so much! That means I can use my existing stove pipe (after a careful inspection). I was concerned that the pipe had to match the stove for proper operation, but since I'll probably have it throttled down most of the time it should work well.

It can actually be an advantage to downsize the pipe. I burned wood most of my life, with a taller chimney, like from a basement furnace through a two story house and attic, the smaller flue will draft harder and still flow the same cfm. The higher velocity kept the the chimney warmer which helps maintain a strong draft and eliminate creosote. In a shorter chimney the reduced pipe will limit the stove's capacity, which could be ok if it is too big to start with and you have dry wood. Also be careful of backdrafting and install a good CO detector, which you need regardless.

If your local TSC can not get coal, ask the store in Reno if they can drop ship you a pallet. 360 miles round trip plus paying full retail could be a deal breaker, unless you have other business in that area. If the numbers don't work, maybe look at a better wood stove. I heated a large old farmhouse with 40 single pane windows with a forced air furnace. I added wood every 8-10 hours, even when temps were single digit, Fahrenheit. The automatic thermostat kept the entire house toasty. Don't sell your pine wood short. The pine resin actually adds BTU output, and pine dries very quick. Around here everyone says "Burning pine will ruin your chimney!", so I did them a favor and let them dump their pine logs here instead of paying at the landfill. It takes a bigger pile than dense hardwood, and I always ran a hot fire first thing every morning anyway, but it heats just fine. Wood fiber produces about 3,500 btu/lb, regardless of species.

You make good points and they are all true, but I neglected to mention that I WOULD have business in the area anyway........visiting my son. I go there at least twice a year, so grabbing a pickup load of 40# bags really isn't a big deal. Thanks for the idea of drop shipping too, I hadn't thought about that. You also have to consider that I'm only heating the building when I'm out there, not like trying to heat a house 24/7 in the winter.

I also forgot to mention my current chimney setup. The class A portion in the attic and through the roof is 7 inch, about 8 feet. From the stove to the ceiling is almost 8 feet (my shop has 11 ceilings) of 6 inch......so the total run is around 16 feet or so. In effect you almost have a venturi of sorts starting larger at the stove, necked down and then expanding again. Sounds goofy, but it draws beautifully and isn't affected by the wind.

I'll try the 6 inch setup first because it's already in place. If I have draft problems I'll hunt down some 7 inch pipe and make the whole thing uniform, but frankly I don't think this potbelly is that finicky.

You should be ok with 6 inch. Many early stoves up to 18 inch firepots, that hold about 65 pounds of coal with a liner, were built to only use a 6 stove inch pipe and they are very good at putting out a lot of heat. And some, like my 118's could have a back pipe that restricts the pipe size even more by 50%.

Many Oak parlor stoves used an optional "back pipe" for "indirect draft mode". With the Glenwood 116, it holds about 50 pounds of nut coal, and as I said, it used a 5 inch stove pipe including the optional back pipe.

That back pipe was divided in half lengthwise by a cast iron baffle so that the flue gases left the stove barrel traveled down the front half of the back pipe, turned under the bottom end of the baffle and back up the back half to exit the back pipe into the stove pipe.

So the 116 with a back pipe is actually breathing through several feet of only half of a 5 inch pipe. And the 118 only through half of a 6 inch pipe. They were designed to burn wood or coal. With either fuel they draft fine and with no problems putting out lots of heat when in the indirect-draft "back pipe" mode.

Paul

My local Ace Hardware has 7" stove pipe in stock.