Draft Difference Between Stoves, Need Advice.

Guyy if one stove runs great on a.04 mano setting and I switch stoves to another brand will the .04 setting work for me .Sounds like a dumb question but I do not know .Note same chimney but put in a bigger stove .jack

Den034071 wrote:Guyy if one stove runs great on a.04 mano setting and I switch stoves to another brand will the .04 setting work for me .Sounds like a dumb question but I do not know .Note same chimney but put in a bigger stove .jack

Won't know until you try it Jack, (should be fine),...that's when the tweaking comes in.

I would say you'll be fine. -.04 should work no problem. However, the manufacturer may recommend a stronger draft for optimum performance. If the new stove is a stoker, manufacturer may recommend less draft. I think -.04 is a good all around draft setting for chimney. Now to figure out how the stove wants to be run. I'm still trying to figure how the D.S. 1600 likes to be run. It's way more finicky than my HITZERS (30-95 & 50-93). What new stove have you installed.

Ol sent you a pm jack

Did You get it worked out,Jack? I gotta figure that a different set of Lungs might breath a little differently. That's definitely something You'd be able to adjust in the first few days of running Your new stove. The fact that You're pulling an -.04 sure sounds like You'll be OK. Take Care and here's Hoping You're Thanksgiving was a Good One,Mister !

I agree, that -.04 is a good pressure for any hand fired unit. It's not too much, it's not too little.

For me, it's more about what can I count on my chimney giving me most of the time. Especially since mine is totally manually controlled. For example, a -.03 will give me a lower heat output level than a -.04 at the same combustion air setting. I can count on my chimney giving me a -.03 more consistently than a -.04. This is why I choose to run my furnace at -.03 instead.

Lightning wrote:I agree, that -.04 is a good pressure for any hand fired unit. It's not too much, it's not too little.

For me, it's more about what can I count on my chimney giving me most of the time. Especially since mine is totally manually controlled. For example, a -.03 will give me a lower heat output level than a -.04 at the same combustion air setting. I can count on my chimney giving me a -.03 more consistently than a -.04. This is why I choose to run my furnace at -.03 instead.

Very interesting way of thinking Lightning. With a "Fully Manual" stove, you'd have more consistent control by matching the chimney high, to the average chimney low, rather than setting the chimney to a max acceptable limit. That kind of makes sense for a "Fully Manual" stove. That is actually where I'm finding my best results so far with this D.S. (-.04 to -.05 with manual damper). With the manual damper open, I average -.04 to -.05.. Wind gust will take draft anywhere between -.05 to -.20+.

It's not just about temperature, but heat output volume of a larger firebox through the same chimney system, too. If the newer stove is much larger, the heat volume delivered to the chimney may not need as high a mano reading as it did before.

Replacing the warped grates in my range increased the amount of coal it holds. Not a lot, but enough that I don't have to run at .04 mano to get the heat output I want.

Now, it heats the house the same while running at .02 as it did at .04. More coal burning capacity from the firebox gave it greater heat volume through the same chimney system. If I run it at .04 now it's hotter in the house than I need, plus it's sending more of that heat volume up the chimney to maintain .04.

Paul

Thanks for help jack