Adjusting Barometric Damper...
- oliver power
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Any time I've read about adjusting the barometric damper, it's been mentioned that the fire be up to speed. I'm assuming that it's for creating draft. Or, to make sure the chimney IS drafting higher than adjustment target. My chimney always has draft, especially on a windy day. Yet, it's too warm to have a coal fire going in the shop. My question is: Do I need a fire when adjusting barometric damper? I have plenty of draft. After all, I am adjusting chimney draft/draw on stove, correct? I'm not adjusting the stove, I'm adjusting the chimney. Anyone ever adjust barometric damper with cold stove?
- joeq
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I'm not a professional OP, but I would think you would need the stove running, measure the draft with a manometer, and adjust the baro accordingly. I can't imagine a cold chimney would have an accurate or consistent flow, as compared to a hot and running one. (But hey, that's just me)
- oliver power
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Yes, my thoughts as well. Yet, I really don't know. But HEY, why not play. I'm going out now, drill a hole, and set the barometric damper. Once I have a fire going, I'll check it again. Lets see what happens. Seeing we're playing (and I don't forget), I'll start out with the factory recommended -.06 setting.joeq wrote:I'm not a professional OP, but I would think you would need the stove running, measure the draft with a manometer, and adjust the baro accordingly. I can't imagine a cold chimney would have an accurate or consistent flow, as compared to a hot and running one. (But hey, that's just me)
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Your chimney would have to have an ambient draft of greater than .06 for you to adjust the baro to .06 without the stove running. It's nigh impossible for this to be the case.oliver power wrote:Yes, my thoughts as well. Yet, I really don't know. But HEY, why not play. I'm going out now, drill a hole, and set the barometric damper. Once I have a fire going, I'll check it again. Lets see what happens. Seeing we're playing (and I don't forget), I'll start out with the factory recommended -.06 setting.joeq wrote:I'm not a professional OP, but I would think you would need the stove running, measure the draft with a manometer, and adjust the baro accordingly. I can't imagine a cold chimney would have an accurate or consistent flow, as compared to a hot and running one. (But hey, that's just me)
- oliver power
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Results are in......... The stove MUST have a fire when adjusting barometric damper. I drilled the hole in stove pipe. Calibrated my draft gauge to zero, and put probe in pipe. No matter what adjustments I made, the needle on the draft gauge jumped all over the place, depending on draw. Example: The gauge would read negative numbers of .05, .010, 0, .020, .06, 0, .015, .10, .05, 0, 20, etc.. Yes, readings anywhere from 0 to -.20. No fine tuning. No steady draft. Only raw chimney draft readings, changing with every gust. So, in a way, we really are adjusting stove draft when burning.
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Adjust the weight for horizontal or vertical? The BD will be 26” above the Kenmore stove, with a MD below. My friend Joe is asking the question.
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- oliver power
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I would install it in the vertical pipe. If I'm not mistaken, the way you have it installed is not advised. Should be in the flow of horizontal, or vertical pipe, not the way you have it. Maybe raise it up 2 or 3 feet higher. Put a new hole. Looks like you don't have a hole where it is, or do you?WIburnerPaul wrote: ↑Sat. Apr. 01, 2023 5:55 pmAdjust the weight for horizontal or vertical? The BD will be 26” above the Kenmore stove, with a MD below. My friend Joe is asking the question.
- warminmn
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Like said, installing in a tee like that isnt advised, sorry.
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No it is not in the hole yet. There is a member that posted a picture, showing a Tee coming out of a stove with a BD on the left and a 90° elbow on the right; going directly into the chimney. A manual says it is okay.oliver power wrote: ↑Sat. Apr. 01, 2023 11:05 pmI would install it in the vertical pipe. If I'm not mistaken, the way you have it installed is not advised. Should be in the flow of horizontal, or vertical pipe, not the way you have it. Maybe raise it up 2 or 3 feet higher. Put a new hole. Looks like you don't have a hole where it is, or do you?
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- warminmn
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Theres conflicting info... The manual for the RC baro in the first picture says no. The manual for the TLC-2000 says yes.
Link to RC baro info and pic included https://www.fieldcontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/ ... _04-15.pdf
Link to RC baro info and pic included https://www.fieldcontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/ ... _04-15.pdf
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- oliver power
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The stove manufacturer could be wrong. So I went straight to field controls like you did, and found the same sketch as you, saying NOT to put the barometric damper there. I down loaded it twice, but can't find it. So I went to the field controls site again using my cell phone. Found almost the same dammed sketch with a big OK. So I guess you put it wherever you feel like.warminmn wrote: ↑Sun. Apr. 02, 2023 10:23 pmTheres conflicting info... The manual for the RC baro in the first picture says no. The manual for the TLC-2000 says yes.
Link to RC baro info and pic included https://www.fieldcontrols.com/wp-content/uploads/ ... _04-15.pdf
I agree with the sketch you posted warminmn. It should not be in the bend. The barometric damper should be in the exhaust flow of the pipe. I guess the answer is; WHO CARES, as long as it works.