Successfully Burning Anthracite Coal in a Clayton Furnace
Hi, I have been reading this forum for a while now and decided to purchase a Clyaton 1600m from TSC. I am in the process of setting it up and want to do it right the first time. There is talk of blocking air holes in the fire box. If any one has a pic of where exactly the holes are it would be greatly appreciated. The only holes I have noticed are about 3/4" and there are 3 of them in the front and back. Any and all help is appreciated.
True, there has been talk about doing that, but I would not! The air holes serve as the combustion air inlets, located in the removable cast iron front liner. Keep those holes clear and leave them alone. When burning wood, these holes serve as the primary combustion air source. When burning coal, they serve as the secondary combustion air source.
There are a few other threads that you may want to view, burning in the Clayton 1600. Slow Blue Dancing With Red Dressed Ladies in a Clayton Clayton Furnace Fired on Wood Anything else about the Clayton, 1600, Feel free to ask. DOUG
There are a few other threads that you may want to view, burning in the Clayton 1600. Slow Blue Dancing With Red Dressed Ladies in a Clayton Clayton Furnace Fired on Wood Anything else about the Clayton, 1600, Feel free to ask. DOUG
mine did not come with the FAD blower, I may at some point add one. There is a spinner knob in its place. The knob has a couple small nubs that prevent it from closing tight. Will this be a problem, have no issue taking a grinder to it so it seals tight.
- North Candlewood
- Member
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- Joined: Sun. Dec. 09, 2007 9:00 pm
- Location: Ct
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Eshland S-130
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker A 120
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1602
- Baseburners & Antiques: Princess Atlantic Cookstove
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Rice
Ozman
No need to grind the nubs off I ran mine as was from TSC. I did add the FAD but really didn't use it.
DRAFT will make or break you in the burning coal.
Set up with a baro and spend the money on a manometer.
If needed we can talk you through getting it running.
Charles
No need to grind the nubs off I ran mine as was from TSC. I did add the FAD but really didn't use it.
DRAFT will make or break you in the burning coal.
Set up with a baro and spend the money on a manometer.
If needed we can talk you through getting it running.
Charles
- gitrdonecoal
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- Location: Elba, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90
gusarch,
how ya makin out dude?
how ya makin out dude?
having problems burning through the nite. I think grates are clogged.DOUG wrote:I got them from http://www.heetinc.com. Heet, inc. 2301 Jefferson Ave. Washington, Pa 15301. Phone number 724-228-3710. They are stovepipe magnetic thermometers, $9.95 each. DOUG
- gitrdonecoal
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Pastor55
I do know that it can be tricky burning coal when it is warmer out. draft can be slower, and like doug mentioned, this will make or break burning coal. what does the manometer read? you think the grates are getting clogged. I have a hotblast and once a day or once every two days I have to "poke" or "slice" between my grates to get the ash to fall out and down. after you shake down make sure youu can see a glow through the grates. where you see the dull spots is where there is no air comin through, killing your fire. either use your poker or make a custom one like I have with a thinner gage rod steel. mine is roughly 3/16 diameter. any other questions feel free to ask us.
John
I do know that it can be tricky burning coal when it is warmer out. draft can be slower, and like doug mentioned, this will make or break burning coal. what does the manometer read? you think the grates are getting clogged. I have a hotblast and once a day or once every two days I have to "poke" or "slice" between my grates to get the ash to fall out and down. after you shake down make sure youu can see a glow through the grates. where you see the dull spots is where there is no air comin through, killing your fire. either use your poker or make a custom one like I have with a thinner gage rod steel. mine is roughly 3/16 diameter. any other questions feel free to ask us.
John
- North Candlewood
- Member
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Sun. Dec. 09, 2007 9:00 pm
- Location: Ct
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Eshland S-130
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker A 120
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1602
- Baseburners & Antiques: Princess Atlantic Cookstove
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Rice
Pastor55
Are you running a full belly of coal.
It should look like this. Last year photo of my 1600.
Are you running a full belly of coal.
It should look like this. Last year photo of my 1600.
Attachments
having problems getting it to burn threw the night,coal keepsburning out. lot of unburned coal left in stove.
coalcrazy wrote:having problems burning anthracite w/ your clayton furnace? I did to, but learned how to have great success! these furnaces are excellent, but if your not familiar W/ set-up and operation you'll rip your hair out! if you have poor draft you need to get this fixed or it'll never work for any make furnace. if your chimney is too short w/ a large flue diameter you'll have to line it w/ properly sized pipe. also burning on warmer days is difficult(poor draft). you must properly install a barmetric damper. be sure to try coal from different suppliers. use coal stove size only. nut coal stops air flow and jams the grates in this model(see manual).load to top of fire bricks adding one thin layer at a time. draft fire heavily during loading after fire is strong draft as low as possible.see posts on starting coal fires. as w/ all coal fires grates must completly covered w/ coal end to end, side to side, top to bottom. no excuses.contact me and i'll do all I can to help I have learned so much in the last 4 years it's unreal. don't panic your furnace is fine just slow down and think.
its probably a half belly full. I don't have a problem during the day. I shake it frequant and every yhing is fine , nice bed of coal burning,its just at night. new to burning coal.
North Candlewood wrote:Pastor55
Are you running a full belly of coal.
It should look like this. Last year photo of my 1600.
- North Candlewood
- Member
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Sun. Dec. 09, 2007 9:00 pm
- Location: Ct
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Eshland S-130
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker A 120
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1602
- Baseburners & Antiques: Princess Atlantic Cookstove
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Rice
Sounds like you fuss with it too much and it wants a full belly.
Draft is a key factor as well in all of this.
Draft is a key factor as well in all of this.
I'm having the same problem, I can't get the stove to burn threw the night
1howardo wrote:its sunday morning and my oil furnace is on-again. I had a real good fire going last night, I did it just as you described. had the blue flames. I even had to open the windows it got so warm. went to bed at 10:30 and everything was fine, 6 o'clock this morning and nothing. a lot of ash and unburned coal. I also have another problem. I don't have a couple of holes in the front. its a 2 or 3 inch slot between the front of the furnace and the grate. also when you shake the grate the entire assembly moves from front to back. the individual segments don't move like they are supposed to. last night I put a block of wood in that opening and the air seemed to move under the bed of coal, but of course the wood eventually burned. i'm going to have to call us stove on monday{if I can ever get a hold of them}.