Gasket Leak

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
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rberq
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Posts: 5013
Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
Location: Central Maine

Post Wed. Feb. 13, 2008 4:34 pm

Right about where the latch is on my loading door (harman mk I) I can see a red glow for the space of an inch or two, where the gasket doesn't contact the stove body. I put a straight-edge on the door, the stove body, and the gasket, and I can see that there's no warping, it's the gasket itself that is a little thinner at that one spot. It's not enough to bother with now -- I've had the stove going non-stop since early November and I'll be darned if I will shut it down while I can still walk and carry coal.

But -- come Spring -- how do I get the old gasket off? Just scrape it with a stiff putty knife? Is there some kind of solvent to dissolve the gasket cement and clean the surface before I install new gasket? Or is there some way to plump up the existing gasket in that spot, so I don't have to change it at all?
Simple answers for simple minds.

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coal berner
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Posts: 3591
Joined: Tue. Jan. 09, 2007 12:44 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520
Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.

Post Wed. Feb. 13, 2008 4:58 pm

Find the end of the gasket and pull it off then use the knife and scrape off what is left clean the the area put new
cement & gasket on shut the door wait for 45- 60 min make a small fire and cure the cement your dunn You should replace all gaskets every year or two You can do it with the stove going now if you want to open the load door all the way leave it cool down then Put new gasket on It will be easy to get the old stuff off when it is warm you will have to keep the ash door open when doing this to keep the fire going it can be dunn I have dunn it in the past Or you could Try cement in the low area on the door now and see if it seals up the gap or if you have a old piece of gasket cut it to fit the area and cement it over the one that is on there now Good luck :)
J.C.

Heating house & water with a 1986 electric furnace man DF520 using buckwheat Anthracite coal

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Cyber36
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Posts: 480
Joined: Mon. Oct. 29, 2007 1:53 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Marathon/Logwood
Location: Byron NY

Post Thu. Feb. 14, 2008 12:41 pm

Even the rope style gaskets in the groove should be replaced annually?? I haven't noticed any leaking issues yet......

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coal berner
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Posts: 3591
Joined: Tue. Jan. 09, 2007 12:44 am
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 Electric Furnace Man 520 DF
Stove/Furnace Make: Electric Furnace Man
Stove/Furnace Model: DF520
Location: Pottsville PA. Schuylkill County PA. The Hart Of Anthracite Coal Country.

Post Thu. Feb. 14, 2008 5:31 pm

Cyber36 wrote:Even the rope style gaskets in the groove should be replaced annually?? I haven't noticed any leaking issues yet......
That is the type used on this stove's rope any door that as a channel in it will be rope doors that don't have channels in them will be flat gaskets or windows & hoppers
J.C.

Heating house & water with a 1986 electric furnace man DF520 using buckwheat Anthracite coal

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coaledsweat
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Posts: 9826
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Location: Guilford, Connecticut

Post Thu. Feb. 14, 2008 7:18 pm

Cyber36 wrote:Even the rope style gaskets in the groove should be replaced annually?? I haven't noticed any leaking issues yet......
Mine are 14 years old on the load and ash doors. Inspect regularly, change when needed.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.

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CoalHeat
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Posts: 8327
Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey

Post Thu. Feb. 14, 2008 7:24 pm

rberq wrote:Right about where the latch is on my loading door (harman mk I) I can see a red glow for the space of an inch or two, where the gasket doesn't contact the stove body. I put a straight-edge on the door, the stove body, and the gasket, and I can see that there's no warping, it's the gasket itself that is a little thinner at that one spot. It's not enough to bother with now -- I've had the stove going non-stop since early November and I'll be darned if I will shut it down while I can still walk and carry coal.

But -- come Spring -- how do I get the old gasket off? Just scrape it with a stiff putty knife? Is there some kind of solvent to dissolve the gasket cement and clean the surface before I install new gasket? Or is there some way to plump up the existing gasket in that spot, so I don't have to change it at all?
Same issue with mine, last year when it was new. The only way to adjust the tightness of the latch assembly is to bent the striker on the stove a little (vise-grips).
Heating a circa 1832 farmhouse with a Harman Magnafire Mark I & a 1959 EFM 350 (heating DHW).
100% Oil Free!
"It's what we learn after we think we know it all that counts."

rberq
Member
Posts: 5013
Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
Location: Central Maine

Post Thu. Feb. 14, 2008 9:41 pm

Yes, eventually I may have to adjust the striker a little, too. While the one spot I described is the only visible gap, the latch requires no pressure at all to engage it, it just slips into place perfectly. Thanks for the tip.
Simple answers for simple minds.

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Devil505
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Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: TLC-2000
Location: SE Massachusetts

Post Fri. Feb. 15, 2008 8:13 am

coaledsweat wrote:
Cyber36 wrote:Even the rope style gaskets in the groove should be replaced annually?? I haven't noticed any leaking issues yet......
Mine are 14 years old on the load and ash doors. Inspect regularly, change when needed.
This is my 3rd season with a Harman TLC-2000 & the gaskets are fine.
War is a game that is played with a smile. If you can't smile, grin. If you can't grin, keep out of the way till you can.
Winston Churchill
Shaking & Poking The TLC2000 Video

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Cyber36
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Posts: 480
Joined: Mon. Oct. 29, 2007 1:53 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Marathon/Logwood
Location: Byron NY

Post Fri. Feb. 15, 2008 8:52 am

Mine are 18 yrs. old, & that's why I was asking...........

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LsFarm
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Posts: 7385
Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
Location: Michigan

Post Fri. Feb. 15, 2008 9:49 am

You can take a candle, or a cigarette, and go around the perimeter of the door, watching the smoke or the candle flame.. If there is a gap or leak in the gasket, the flame or smoke will be pulled through the gap by the draft...

Greg L

.
Burning Pea/Buckwheat through an antique stoker [semi retired SSboiler],
Running an Axeman-Anderson 260M boiler burning Pea, About 150-250#per day
Farming, Fixing, Fabricating and Flying: 'spare time' what's that?

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JLF53
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Posts: 116
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Make: Leisure Line
Stove/Furnace Model: Pocono
Location: Hunterdon County New Jersey

Post Sat. Dec. 27, 2008 9:50 pm

rberq wrote:Right about where the latch is on my loading door (harman mk I) I can see a red glow for the space of an inch or two, where the gasket doesn't contact the stove body. I put a straight-edge on the door, the stove body, and the gasket, and I can see that there's no warping, it's the gasket itself that is a little thinner at that one spot. It's not enough to bother with now -- I've had the stove going non-stop since early November and I'll be darned if I will shut it down while I can still walk and carry coal.

But -- come Spring -- how do I get the old gasket off? Just scrape it with a stiff putty knife? Is there some kind of solvent to dissolve the gasket cement and clean the surface before I install new gasket? Or is there some way to plump up the existing gasket in that spot, so I don't have to change it at all?
I had the same issue but for 8 inches. I called my Harman dealer. He came and adjusted the handle and now I cannot see into the stove by the door latch. I have had a lot of problems keeping the door latch (handle) on the load door adjusted properly. I am getting ready to request a new handle since I have only been using the stove for 4 weeks and the problem has existed for the entire time.

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Freddy
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Posts: 6604
Joined: Fri. Apr. 11, 2008 2:54 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 130 (pea)
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Reading piece o' junk in the barn (rice)
Coal Size/Type: Pea size, Superior, deep mined
Location: Orrington, Maine

Post Sun. Dec. 28, 2008 4:20 am

"plumping" as temporary fix... I've not tried this, but maybe should work. Cool the stove, Goop some high temp silicone on the low spot. Tape saran wrap on the other surface. Shut door, wait. Open door, remove saran wrap.
Orrington, Maine
Fred

"If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all".

rberq
Member
Posts: 5013
Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane
Location: Central Maine

Post Sun. Dec. 28, 2008 3:43 pm

I replaced the gasket this weekend, because the old gasket was pulling away from the door. Now there is a slight gap at another spot, I think because I allowed a little twist in the rope gasket rather than keeping the "grain" perfectly straight. However, the gap seems to have mostly disappeared over a couple of days as the higher spots got compressed more.

I considered using high-temp silicone to fill the low spot, but the only kind I could find locally was good to about 480 or 500 degrees, and I know the stove body gets considerably hotter than that. But I like the saran wrap idea -- I'll have to remember that for the future. Maybe waxed paper also?

P.S. The guy in the stove shop told me to heat the Rutland gasket cement to 90 or 100 degrees before trying to use it. I can see why: it is REALLY hard to squeeze it out of the tube otherwise.
Simple answers for simple minds.

CapeCoaler
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Posts: 4428
Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
Location: Cape Cod, MA

Post Sun. Dec. 28, 2008 3:59 pm

There is a gasket 'glue' out now high temp and no mess.
I am not an engineer, train or otherwise!
I stay at a Holiday Inn at least once a year!
Most of all I do have common sense and a practical application of logic.
Oh, add humor, on the dry side, along with a wee bit 'o sarcasm.

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