Vigilant 2310 Issue

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Thu. Aug. 14, 2014 2:30 pm

Thought I would pass along a little discovery and fix for a found issue. During the spring cleaning I found the rear grate support has acquired a worn spot and grove caused by a sharp burr in the left side wall plate hole that it sits in. The right side wall plate does not have this burr. I fixed the burr with a rat tail file...and yes it is that time, as they say in Maine, it's either wintah or you're getting ready for wintah!

Thanks for the spell check whistlenut!

whistlenut · Post by **whistlenut** » Thu. Aug. 14, 2014 2:42 pm

10 months of Winta, two months of damned muddy snowmobilin'. V C issues are just so you will keep a keen eye and ear on the thing.

whistlenut · Post by **whistlenut** » Thu. Aug. 14, 2014 2:45 pm

Are you shaker links worn as well? Common issue after 15 or 20 years. Ever wonder how many Pellet Stoves will last 15 to 40 years? Also, did you ever think about parts availability? Computer Boards? Special switches? Plan Aheeeeaaaaaaaaaaddddd!

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Thu. Aug. 14, 2014 2:49 pm

whistlenut wrote:Are you shaker links worn as well? Common issue after 15 or 20 years. Ever wonder how many Pellet Stoves will last 15 to 40 years? Also, did you ever think about parts availability? Computer Boards? Special switches? Plan Aheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd!

Linkage good, pellet stove bad!

If my computer goes down I can borrow a NEW one from my six yr old.

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Fri. Aug. 15, 2014 12:51 pm

MA, How much wear does yours have and does it compare to my picture of the left side where all the torque originates from the shaker rod?

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Fri. Aug. 15, 2014 11:05 pm

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:MA, How much wear does yours have and does it compare to my picture of the left side where all the torque originates from the shaker rod?

The groove on the left end of the rear grate support is about a 1/16" not too bad considering I'm at least the 3rd owner, and I'm sure the burr on the left wall plate was made by the punch press and die when formed.

Post by **franco b** » Sat. Aug. 16, 2014 10:29 am

michaelanthony wrote:
VigIIPeaBurner wrote:MA, How much wear does yours have and does it compare to my picture of the left side where all the torque originates from the shaker rod?
The groove on the left end of the rear grate support is about a 1/16" not too bad considering I'm at least the 3rd owner, and I'm sure the burr on the left wall plate was made by the punch press and die when formed.

It's cast iron so not pressed. The fault is not enough bearing area in the original casting. Should have been 1/2 inch or more.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Sat. Aug. 16, 2014 10:43 pm

Thanks franco, once the burr was filed away it looks like it sits on 1/4" to 3/8" of flat. Should these pivot points be lubed?, or is the environment better off dry. I don't want ash gumming up the works.

Post by **franco b** » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 12:17 am

michaelanthony wrote:Thanks franco, once the burr was filed away it looks like it sits on 1/4" to 3/8" of flat. Should these pivot points be lubed?, or is the environment better off dry. I don't want ash gumming up the works.

Ordinary lubricants can't stand the conditions. The only thing I can think of to try is dry powdered graphite.

It would have been so easy to make those bearing areas thicker in the original casting. For instance the Glenwood has about 3/4 inch bearing area. My shaker arm is cut about 1/16 deep in that area.

I am going to try a brass bushing, but the problem is to keep it from rotating since it has to have that large area cut out to enable assembly of the parts.

It's hard to fault the original designer since so much is clever and quite a departure from other stoves. Compared to one hundred years ago production is only a fraction, so much harder to justify the costs of changes to make improvements.

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 12:18 am

I shoot each pivot point with with graphite each season. I use Kano Labs Dryphite. That's what the caused the drip trail you can see in the earlier picture of the side. I don't know how long it lasts in that heat zone. I've always thought about getting their Pyrolube for points like these. Edit: I'd like to try Pyrolube, it's listed for use on stokers, but it's sold in bulk. Pricey @ ~$80/gallon. Probably a lifetime supply for a group of members.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 11:07 am

I'll shoot the points with some graphite when I assemble the stove. It is soon time for my trip to Tractor Supply for new fire bricks and maybe some stove polish...I love walking around Tractor Supply.

Post by **franco b** » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 11:40 am

michaelanthony wrote:I'll shoot the points with some graphite when I assemble the stove. It is soon time for my trip to Tractor Supply for new fire bricks and maybe some stove polish...I love walking around Tractor Supply.

I used William's stove polish in the spring and was pleased with the ease and results. I found that using a shoe polish applicator brush worked very well to both apply and buff.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Sun. Aug. 17, 2014 12:11 pm

franco b wrote:
michaelanthony wrote:I'll shoot the points with some graphite when I assemble the stove. It is soon time for my trip to Tractor Supply for new fire bricks and maybe some stove polish...I love walking around Tractor Supply.
I used William's stove polish in the spring and was pleased with the ease and results. I found that using a shoe polish applicator brush worked very well to both apply and buff.

Vigilant 2310 Issue

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