Removing Grates.

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tmbrddl
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Post Sun. Mar. 30, 2014 11:18 pm

I'm moving forward (sandblasting today) with my restoration project on the Glenwood Oak 30 I purchased and I could use some advice and/or info on how to remove the grates. I have the plate removed and the gears exposed but can't see how the grates are held in place. I see the cotter pins holding the gears to the shaft but is there something else I should be looking for?

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wsherrick
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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 12:38 am

If it is like a No. 6 the grates and the frame all slide out together. It's very easy. Pull on the frame the grates are resting in and see if it slides toward you.

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tmbrddl
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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 1:16 am

wsherrick wrote:If it is like a No. 6 the grates and the frame all slide out together. It's very easy. Pull on the frame the grates are resting in and see if it slides toward you.
I'll give that a try in the morning. Thanks for your help!

Mark.

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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 5:07 am

There may be a narrow cover over the front of the grate frame with tabs at each side that pivot out of the way. Rotate the tabs out of the way and remove that cover (first picture).

If the grate frame does not want to slide out like a #6, as William said above (second picture), and there is no cover in front of the grates, see if there is a cotter pin in each upper front corner of the ash door opening that is holding the front of the grate frame up - like the Glenwood Modern Oaks (third picture).

If there is, the rear of the frame is likely just sitting on supports. Pull the two cotter pins and the front of the frame drops down. Then pull the frame out.

Paul
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tmbrddl
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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 9:20 am

Thank you Paul and ws. It indeed did lay in a tray and I found the problem. Somewhere along the way, someone put an oversize grate in and jammed it in place...it isn't moving on its own. I'm going to take a saw and cut the offending grate so I can drop it out of the way. I'm afraid of breaking a casting by trying to force it out. How they got it in there without busting something I don't know.

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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 9:29 am

tmbrddl wrote:Thank you Paul and ws. It indeed did lay in a tray and I found the problem. Somewhere along the way, someone put an oversize grate in and jammed it in place...it isn't moving on its own. I'm going to take a saw and cut the offending grate so I can drop it out of the way. I'm afraid of breaking a casting by trying to force it out. How they got it in there without busting something I don't know.
Can you post pictures of the grates in there ? Just curious to see how the earlier oak grates are kept in place.

Paul

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tmbrddl
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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 9:57 am

Here is a picture of the pot with the center right grate being so much bigger than its neighbors.
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tmbrddl
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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 10:03 am

They lay on a rail and pull straight out just as you mentioned. No cotter pins holding it in place.
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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 10:06 am

That right center grate looks familiar but not Glenwood. I think it is from an Albany stove----possibly Stewart. The two center grates on Glenwood Oaks are the same. The gear is offset and flips over on the grate shank. Recast the other center grate and probably the gear as well. Tomahawk in Wis. can do the job. Use the new grates(cast two) and save the original as you will want to recast again sometime.

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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 10:11 am

Shouldn't that outer right hand grate be the outer one on the left side, so that the gears will mesh ?

I don't see how the grates can be shaken in left and right pairs in that picture ????

Are there gears on the outer left and middle right grates ?

Paul

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tmbrddl
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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 10:15 am

I took the gears off thinking it might be easier to remove the entire grate system. The grates on the right (looking at the pic) work just fine with the shaker handle.

Thanks for the tip on recasting the grates. How pricey is that and can you direct me to the fellow? Thanks so much for your help and interest.

Mark
Last edited by tmbrddl on Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 10:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

Sunny Boy
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
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Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Location: Central NY

Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 10:16 am

Here's one source for your center grate bars.

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/SubPage.aspx?spv ... 2&spt_id=3

Paul

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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 10:18 am

And here's Tomahawk's website.

http://www.tomahawkfoundry.com/

Paul

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tmbrddl
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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 10:23 am

Thank you, Paul. This is a major undertaking for me. I like to restore things but this is the first time I've ever attempted to strip a stove down to its last bolt. Rusted %&$#*!

The only thing I'm not going to do is have the nickel restored. I am concerned that the barrel is 'feathered' at the bottom where it comes into contact with the pot. There may be enough left there to get another hundred years out of the stove...I only need ten at my age...but if I can come up with a good repair solution I'll go that route. I contacted a guy who used to do metal work for me in southern Maine and he says he can do it but the rear pipe causes me concern. I want it done right.

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Post Mon. Mar. 31, 2014 10:32 am

Sunny Boy wrote:Here's one source for your center grate bars.

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/SubPage.aspx?spv ... 2&spt_id=3

Paul
well, this is timely. you have no idea how much I apprec. that info, though by fire season next winter i'll show you. ;)

do you know if the GW BB style grate frames are available ?

thanks,
steve

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