Fine Tuning the Burn...??

 
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Crow Horse
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Post by Crow Horse » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 6:22 pm

I've made some significant progress in my switch to coal. Starting is a piece of cake but I struggle with keeping the burn moderate. I took apart the ash door vent because the vents were loose and allowing air in even when closed. Cleaned up the sliding surfaces, added some graphite and swapped in some better fitting hardware to keep it tight yet slide. Seems like it improved the seal and I'll see tomorrow if it helped. I also added a door plate so I could have a deep bed of coal. It works well but I need to moderate the burn. My damper is 1/8 to 1/4 open. I'm wondering if I have a really good draft and the air vent that formerly leaked was allowing more air in than wanted or needed.
Any tips or advice?......
When cleaning out the stove, there are some obvious klinkers but when the coal isn't shaken down and the ash kills the fire, the remaining unburnt coal and partially burn coal remain. What's the best way to handle them?

Golden Flame coal/wood stove......


 
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ShawninNY
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Post by ShawninNY » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 6:58 pm

Hey Crow , I've been wondering how it's been going for you , I'm glad you adjusted the air intake ( after posting that I checked mine and it was really sloppy too I added foil chimney tape to the mating surfaces and it snugged it up) 1/8ths are good increments to adjust the under fire air ! When outside temps rise you might find you need more air ( I guess it's due to drafting issues) If your still running a fast burn you might try a barometric damper ! You are closing the mpd for overnight That will slow flue gases and keep heat in stove, as far as unburnt coal scoop it out and throw ontop of fresh load when it's going good !

 
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Crow Horse
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Post by Crow Horse » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 7:49 pm

Wouldn't closing the damper cause CO issues?

 
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Carbon12
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Post by Carbon12 » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 7:50 pm

Possibly, but not usually. The damper is SUPPOSED to be designed to not completely close off the flu passage.

 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 7:55 pm

Carbon12 wrote:Possibly, but not usually. The damper is SUPPOSED to be designed to not completely close off the flu passage.
Mine closes enough to cause smoke to come out of my furnace, and the pipe connections before the damper. I should add that my damper has the 'quarter' sized holes in the center also.

 
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Post by franco b » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:03 pm

Only one way to know exactly what your draft is and that is with a manometer. Dwyer Mark ll model 25 works well.

With unburned coal just shake down and hollow out the center and start a new fire.

 
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ShawninNY
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Post by ShawninNY » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:16 pm

Your mpd should have holes in it so even full closed still allows1/4 of flow ! I have heard of a solid cast iron 1 but have never seen that! even a solid one is smaller than pipe dia .this damper is in pipe correct? I think don may have a solid 1 or issue with connections don I would tape the joints with foil or cement them something is wrong there! I have 2 stoves 1 with baro in house 15 ' ss chimney, and 1 in garage with mpd and 12' Ss pretty crappy draft I'll get smoke from load door w/mpd closed but never out of pipe , Crow if your unsure if you have holes wait till next burn out and pop the closest joint and take a peak if your


 
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ShawninNY
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Post by ShawninNY » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:20 pm

Don could bit soot be built up around mpd? That sounds super dangerous what if spring weakens and mpd closes everyone dies?

 
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Crow Horse
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Post by Crow Horse » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:25 pm

I've been burning for several hours now and snugging up the air vent made a huge difference. The burn is much more manageable. and adjustable. So far so good......

 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:27 pm

ShawninNY wrote:Don could bit soot be built up around mpd? That sounds super dangerous what if spring weakens and mpd closes everyone dies?
I clean mine on a regular basis to keep the soot from building up too much, and my spring has weakened. My MPD has never closed up on me (since I made a chimney cap), but it will come open farther than I set it at if it gets windy.

 
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ShawninNY
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Post by ShawninNY » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:38 pm

I just searched google images the only one without substantial holes , is made for 6" hvac duct and they snug up against pipe wall! Have you seen yours ? Does it have slots, holes and clearance around edge when closed?

 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:42 pm

ShawninNY wrote:I just searched google images the only one without substantial holes , is made for 6" hvac duct and they snug up against pipe wall! Have you seen yours ? Does it have slots, holes and clearance around edge when closed?
Mine is cast iron and has 2 'quarter' sized holes in the center by the shaft, I've replaced it several times over the years. The last time was last fall when I replaced all the pipe between the furnace and chimney.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:47 pm

NICE CH--you're doin what we've all had to do--keep tinkerin till ya get comfortable with what your stove can & can not do--plus the how's & why's of it all-you got the basics down--you're doin good my friend:)--aho
Crow Horse wrote:I've been burning for several hours now and snugging up the air vent made a huge difference. The burn is much more manageable. and adjustable. So far so good......
Last edited by freetown fred on Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:48 pm

I'm also one of those crazy fellas that rips the pipe off the furnace while it's burning :shock: and dumps the soot into a bucket that I have handy. Total length of my flue pipe is about 24 inches. Including the elbow and adapters to go from 6 inch stove to 9 inch flue.

 
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ShawninNY
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Post by ShawninNY » Fri. Feb. 21, 2014 8:58 pm

Don reread your post you have holes! It doesn't sound right , maybe it's a piping issue I think it's worth it's own thread!


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