Basics of a Hand Fired Coal Stove

 
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Lightning
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Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Fri. Feb. 03, 2017 5:04 pm

gina wrote:I wonder if I didn't have enough of an ash bed down when I started the fire and so that's why it was burning so hot? It's slowed down now, with all doors closed and the round damper closed, I'm at about 350-370 on the stove.
In my mind there's no such thing as "enough of an ash bed" unless maybe yer trying to run it extremely low during warm weather. Ash is not our friend when it's cold outside. During moderate to high heat demand you want to keep the fuel bed as ash free as possible.

Those temps you posted look very good to me, as long as it's keeping you comfortable. Keep with trying to control the heat output of the stove with the primary air controls (air fed to the fuel bed under the grates) and keep that glass door closed. If it continues to run away on you keep cutting primary air. If that isn't fixing the runaways then we'll need to determine if it's getting primary air some other way, like thru a leaky gasket on the lower door (ash door), or something else

Keep up the good work, you'll be a coal expert in no time :)

 
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Lightning
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Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Fri. Feb. 03, 2017 5:37 pm

franco b wrote:If you need 500 degrees in the very cold, you might have to go to more frequent tending times.

The aim should be to still have close to one half of burning coal still available to ignite the new coal load quickly.

If a stove holds 40 pounds, then loading 20 pounds at each tending would be best for a 12 hour burn and still have enough left burnibg to ignite the new coal. Being left with a small amount of burning coal can take a long time to get the new coal burning, or even lose the fire.
This is important too :)
Nicely stated, Richard.

 
franco b
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Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Fri. Feb. 03, 2017 5:45 pm

To check the lower door for air leaks , take a dollar bill and close it in the door all around. Where the bill pulls out easily with the door latched , there will be a leak. If the bill is gripped tightly all over ,then the door is tight.


 
Georgelap
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Posts: 113
Joined: Sat. Oct. 11, 2014 10:04 am
Location: Nafpaktos- Greece
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Godin 3720A, Buderus Juno
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: Oscar- oil boiler

Post by Georgelap » Thu. Feb. 16, 2017 1:10 pm

gina wrote:Here's a pic. It is mirrored since I took it with my computer.
Photo on 8-29-16 at 2.17 PM.jpg
Hi Gina!
It seem that your thermostat knob is missed...with this knob you regulate the primary air.

The other air regulator (I, II, III) controls the secondary air.

This stove as the most german made stoves is "allesbrener" (burns everything).
To make your stove work properly follow these regulations:

fully closed= coke coal
I = anthracite, semi anthracite
II= low vol bituminus
III= bit, lignite briquettes, sawdust bricks, wood

But first of all you have to find a primary air knob.

If you want to find this spare part take a look in german stove manufacturers sites. Most of them are exactly the same for decates.

George

 
shovelbum138
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Joined: Sun. Aug. 26, 2018 2:50 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: King 9901-B Circulator

Post by shovelbum138 » Sun. Aug. 26, 2018 3:11 pm

Crystalmadness wrote:
Tue. Oct. 28, 2014 4:53 pm
and where can I get the 12" X 8" X 3/4" Firebrick (or combination of bricks) for the back wall? the side bricks are the standard 4x9.5.1.25 but the back pocket is thinner and not a cumulative # of the standard bricks will not work even if they were thinner. The stove has been previously used without the back wall bricks but only wood has been burned in it. I know coal burns hotter so I want the back wall protected as the inside of the outer decorator skin shows signs of getting hot on the inside of it along the back and coal would cause even more heat and possible damage without the additional bricks. I would love an owners manual too but can't find that either. The Maine winter is coming so any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Richard
I just scored a King 9901-B and am wondering the same thing. There is a metal plate that is held in by the bracket at the end of the stove, bur shouldn't there be firebrick there also?
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