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Carbon12 · Post by **Carbon12** » Sun. Jan. 05, 2014 2:23 pm

That's easy! Get a bigger hammer and hit any key to continue!

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Jan. 05, 2014 2:28 pm

J F Graham wrote:model 25,yes

Perfect.. I used a 12 inch piece of 3/8 inch brake line. Drill a hole slightly larger than the brake line to insert it into the pipe. The rubber tube will fit snuggly up over the brake line making an air tight fit. Then I crimped a little piece of tin over the break line at about two inches from the end to act as a "stop" so it would penetrate the flue about 2 inches. This makes it easy to pull it out of the flue for calibrating the mano and to check for blockage of the probe. Sometimes fly ash will clog the end of the brake line.

rberq · Post by **rberq** » Sun. Jan. 05, 2014 3:03 pm

J F Graham wrote:... still looking for choke and kill switch for computer

Looks like this:

coalder · Post by **coalder** » Sun. Jan. 05, 2014 3:57 pm

Guys, thanks for the info and pics; especially the "kill switch" I have a couple similar, but nothing with the character of that old blacksmith hammer!!! I'm sure it's older than any one of us, and for sure would get the job done. PS: my wife got a real charge out of it!!!

coalder · Post by **coalder** » Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 3:06 pm

Got the Dwyer mano a couple of days ago, and installed permanently yesterday. Seems to tell quite a story!! And would explain my excessive coal consumption. Like I previously stated the Harman SF 160 has no baro, only MPD which I ran by " Kentucky windage". Seems that with MPD at 45 deg angle = .10 according to mano. Through some experimenting I now keep MPD closed all the way except for loading, and it stays steady at .03. This morning only added 1/2 bag. Even though it's been fairly mild It's been the best 12 hrs yet

. A couple of things that I could use clarification on are 1) As it is running in idle at .03, and the primary draft opens, by aqua stat, the reading drops to .02 then slooowly rises to .03 to .04. 2) When the primary closes the number spikes to .06 and then takes 30 min to come back to .03. However, all in all I am very impressed with this unit!!! Thx Jim

rberq · Post by **rberq** » Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 4:25 pm

So, you could be the poster child for the National Barometric Damper Society. Set it for .03 (or whatever is recommended) and the draft should never go higher, and you won't have to monkey with the MPD from minute to minute or hour to hour. The baro limits high drafts but does not increase low ones, so I don't know if you will still see the drop to .02 when the primary air control opens. However, if you leave the MPD open more, so it is the baro and not the MPD which is limiting draft, you may find there is enough "reserve" in the system to maintain .03 at all times.

coalder · Post by **coalder** » Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 4:37 pm

As previously stated I don't use a baro only MPD. Are you suggesting that I add a baro to existing set up

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 4:49 pm

J F Graham wrote:Are you suggesting that I add a baro to existing set up

absolutely get the baro....we gotta distract these fellas from continuing on in that fan thread any way we can! it may help tweak your coal usage efficiency a little more but the main reason is to give us something to talk about!!

Post by **Lightning** » Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 4:51 pm

J F Graham wrote:As previously stated I don't use a baro only MPD. Are you suggesting that I add a baro to existing set up

A baro will steady draft pressure much more effectively than a manual pipe damper. You would see less variance in the draft pressure readings than you are seeing with the MPD. Personally

I'm a true baro believer, as many are, although some are not

Since you have an automatic control for combustion air (the aqua stat thingy ma bob) then the baro probably isn't necessary.. BUT, would eliminate toying with the MPD during loading or other times.

Dennis · Post by **Dennis** » Wed. Jan. 15, 2014 6:37 pm

J F Graham wrote:As previously stated I don't use a baro only MPD. Are you suggesting that I add a baro to existing set up

The OP burns wood also,so you could install a baro in a tee along with the MPD and when burning wood simply remove the baro and install an end cap in the tee and have best of both burnings

coalder · Post by **coalder** » Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 7:00 am

Sorry for delayed response. Dennis, your idea of the T concept is definitely food for thought. Right now every thing seems to be going pretty good. Good even burns, and less coal. Guessing less than bag and half per 24 hrs. So I will maintain status quo for this year. Will decide later on, as I want more time to see how much the draft varies with current set-up.
Thx Jim

coalder · Post by **coalder** » Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 5:01 pm

rberg, Applied to MAD_MAGAZINE in 1969 as applicant for poster child; they said I was too crazy

Then I applied to Gorilla Glue 20 yrs later and they said I was too ugly. Then I applied as poster boy for viagara and they shook their heads in despair and suggested shellac. I don't think I will peruse Dwyer after all this despair.

warminmn · Post by **warminmn** » Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 6:32 pm

Did you apply at Trojan yet? LOL Maybe if you blow a fan on it....

Yes, try with the MPD for a while, then maybe try with both baro and MPD, and see which works best in your situation. it varies from situation to situation. Use what works best, or what you are happy with and its alllll good! Stay warm

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Thu. Jan. 16, 2014 8:33 pm

I can't resist to chime in here JF, but as all above are referencing the baro on the "thumbs up" side, I'll have to agree 100%. (If you read pages 10-11 in my Surdiac Diary thread, you'll understand why.) You claim to be delighted with the performance resulting from the new positioning of your mpd, derived from info from your manometer.I was there too, building my set-up step by step. but the addition of the baro was nite and day for me. Baros are cheap, and relatively easy to install, so if you put one in, and don't "think" it's working for you, then it can easily be plugged or removed, temporarily, if you need to try something different. but I'll bet it will help you out too.

coalder · Post by **coalder** » Fri. Jan. 17, 2014 9:50 am

I will see how it goes, but a baro will most likely be installed for next season

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