New to Coal Burning

titleist1 wrote:The Mark III has the same door latch. I have on occasion used a hammer to bang in the keeper on the stove body so the door latch is drawn to the stove body more tightly.

A more delicate and sophisticated method is to slip a crescent wrench over the keeper, adjusted so there is no play, then bend it in slightly.
But as I said above, the gasket will again compress to compensate, and within a week or so there will be virtually no resistance when you latch the door. The gasket is wide enough that it still makes an adequate seal. Just make sure the spinners on the loading door are VERY close to completely closed, especially with the high draft that you must have from a 20' chimney and wide-open MPD.

I think as you say the fire has slowed down and you cant quite get the strong fire or temps you once had....I think every so often you have to shake down the firebed with shaker grate handle...very very vigorously, really whack it... even if you get some red hot coals in your ash pan... On my past hand fired coal units, I would have this happen every so often from too gently shake downs and the ash was slightly building up over time to block a good primary air flow.
Primary air, being air coming beneath the coal bed and rising up through coal..
I don't think your door gasket on the secondary air at the loading door is a concern.
Just whack that shaker grate real good and see how it works... It worked for me when I had sluggish hand fired units.. Now I have Van Wert and EFM stoker pots and you don't have to do shake downs on them...make sure too, that after you do shakedown, that you have enough primary air coming into unit through vent openings in lower (primary air) door.
After all this, keep an eye on the unit for an hour or two, because it just might come back a little too strong... might have to turn down primary air or close the air damper in smoke pipe a little ... all this rambling just a suggestion.
Good Luck
Ken

rberq wrote:A more delicate and sophisticated method is to slip a crescent wrench over the keeper

You wrench guys are definitely more 'high brow' than us hammer guys! You know what they say, when you have a hammer as a solution, everything looks like a nail!

Guys, Thanks so much for the advise!!! However, thanks to all, I believe I have discovered the problem. I believe that by employing the MPD, thereby restricting draft, some sort of restriction formed in the exhaust area of this unit. Late last night, after hearing from so many, I loaded with coal and threw a couple pieces of real seasoned red oak on top to really flush out any possible obstructions. After an hour of constant observation of " Chicago Burning" ; with the ash door open , it seemed to do the trick. Now I'm getting steady readings of 180 with aqua stat set for 175. Now I'll run MPD wide open for coal, and figure it out for wood.
As always
Thx
Jim

glad to here you got it going again,but you should get a manometer to check your draft and then you will be able to set your MPD for a more consistent burn without sending heat up the chimney

Dennis, have no objections to employing a manometer. However am totally ignorant of this device. If you could shed some light on how to use it, or point me to a web page, hopefully a video, it would be greatly appreciated.

J F Graham wrote:Dennis, have no objections to employing a manometer. However am totally ignorant of this device. If you could shed some light on how to use it, or point me to a web page, hopefully a video, it would be greatly appreciated.

they cost around $30.00/$40.00 with shipping.On the top right corner use the search button "manometer" there are many threads to read thru,it's simple to install(use the search button) and easy to use,it's not high tech
**Broken Link(s) Removed** if you have any problems with it,just ask away and everyone will help

J F Graham wrote:Dennis, have no objections to employing a manometer. However am totally ignorant of this device. If you could shed some light on how to use it, or point me to a web page, hopefully a video, it would be greatly appreciated.

We use a manometer to measure negative pressure in the fire box. Below is the one most of us use, it is a Dwyer Mark II model 25... (Under the mano are my temp gauges)

J F Graham wrote:have no objections to employing a manometer. However am totally ignorant of this device. If you could shed some light on how to use it, or point me to a web page

Entering 'manometer' in the search field will bring up many threads with pics of installations and if you click on the 'knowledge base' selection in the very top bar next to 'fuel comparison calculator' do a search for manometer, there is an explanation there also.

Have researched manometers, but am still a bit confused. As from my pics I do not have a baro, only MPD. If I purchased the Dwyer MK 2 can I drill into the stovepipe above the MPD and permanently install the sensor? If so then I could mount the unit permanently, nearby and adjust the MPD according to conditions.

J F Graham wrote:Have researched manometers, but am still a bit confused. As from my pics I do not have a baro, only MPD. If I purchased the Dwyer MK 2 can I drill into the stovepipe above the MPD and permanently install the sensor? If so then I could mount the unit permanently, nearby and adjust the MPD according to conditions.

You want to read the negative pressure that the fire box is feeling. The mano probe needs to be mounted between the stove and the manual pipe damper. Yes, permanent install..

Lee, Just ordered the Dwyer Mk 2 wall mount, will let you know how it works out
thx Jim

J F Graham wrote:Lee, Just ordered the Dwyer Mk 2 wall mount, will let you know how it works out
thx Jim

Great! The model 25 right?

model 25,yes

Also, I will be in contact when It gets here regarding installation , set up ect. I'm pretty mechanical, but not technical; still looking for choke and kill switch for computer