Finally Installed Manometer!

Photog200 · Post by **Photog200** » Fri. Dec. 13, 2013 9:45 pm

[quote="coalcracker"]"By the way, stove only used 60lbs. in 3 days unattended! Great stove
Poor operater"

you may not realize it, that's a shot across the bow of the antique vintage baseburner fraternity- your stove only burned 60 pounds of coal, in 3 days. This just goes to show how efficient these airtight new stoves really are.
Ha! missed, didn't sink my battleship.

1. You must have missed all of the postings of the burn times by these baseburners. 3-4 weeks ago, I had to go out of town for the weekend. I re-loaded the stove and turned it way down so the primary air was just barely open. When I got back 46 hours later, there was still enough coals to get the fire going again. This was on a re-load not all new coal and my stove only holds 50- 60 lbs max. The house was still 63° without any other heat source on.

A high quality new unit such as this, is every bit as efficient as the old baseburners or oak stoves, and then some, and stronger steel construction as well. They are brand new and don't need a $5000 restoration. Anyone that bashes these new, high-quality airtight stoves, simply never tried one.
2. The only person I have heard bashing any stoves on here is you.

coal bob · Post by **coal bob** » Sat. Dec. 14, 2013 9:55 am

Looks just like my install

KingCoal · Post by **KingCoal** » Sat. Dec. 14, 2013 10:48 am

C Bob,

what's your distribution system and how many total s.f. are you heating ?

coal bob · Post by **coal bob** » Sat. Dec. 14, 2013 12:03 pm

3600 sq ft ranche that include basement just leave the basement door open and let the heat just circulate. Basement door is in the middle of the house

coalcracker · Post by **coalcracker** » Sat. Dec. 14, 2013 2:16 pm

Lightning wrote:Also I would like to add that giving excessive secondary air to the fire helps my chimney draft. On warm days in the spring and fall I'm able to maintain draft with a very low heat output.

The excessive secondary air doesn't aid much with combustion but instead is just heated and goes up the chimney maintaining draft. Works for me every time

that's what a Harman stove has built into it from the factory, the air vents below/above the glass are fixed slits, and constantly feed a slight amount of room air above the fire. They create the secondary combustion above the fire when the door is closed, and are a safety against a big methane buildup and explosion. Usually any puffbacks from a Harman are smaller and more manageable due to the above-fire air inlets.

On the old Oak and Washington potbelly stoves I have, the above fire air vents are adjustable. With EPA getting in the picture with wood and coal stoves, they want to "dictate" the emissions of any stove being sold, (those people love to control the public, regardless of any perceived benefit, that's what it's all about- control) - so the vents become fixed on may new stoves. EPA are just elitists that want to tell you where the vent must be on your stove, period. It may also be a liability issue with the mfrs. because a fixed vent can't be closed off easily, and limits methane puffbacks in the stove.

I did try my Harman without the vents, by taping them closed. All that did was require the main draft to be turned down more, as all intake air was then directed via the ash door control knob vent. I removed the tape and returned it back to factory configuration, don't need any big methane explosions in my stove, the knock the glass out of the door.

Those vents give a puffback a place to go. Seal it up tight, then something may give elsewhere.

coalcracker · Post by **coalcracker** » Sat. Dec. 14, 2013 2:27 pm

Photog200 wrote:
coalcracker wrote:"Ha! missed, didn't sink my battleship.

[]

Police Lieutenant: Well, Denham, the old cracked cast iron got him.

Carl Denham: Oh no, it wasn't the cracked cast iron. It was beauty killed the beast.

Loco627 · Post by **Loco627** » Sat. Dec. 14, 2013 3:08 pm

Keepaeyeonit wrote:I still have cold feet with CO in the house so when we leave the dog goes outside I would not want to deal with loosing a family member from that at all.Keepaeyeonit

I have the same concern, but a great Dane can't be left outside. A new CO detector was just released called the Nest Protect. It's both a CO and smoke detector, and it can send alerts to your phone. I haven't ordered one yet, but I'm going to after Christmas. Not foolproof, but if I place it next to the stove hopefully that buys me enough time to get home before levels get dangerous upstairs. They can be found on Amazon and I'm sure lots of other places in the neighborhood of $130.

ridgeracing · Post by **ridgeracing** » Wed. Dec. 18, 2013 9:31 pm

If I plan on leaving coal stove unattended any more for 2-3 days and turn down to an idle (240deg.) I will open MPD to a higher draft reading (.06-.08) to ensure a good draft is there. I had no manometer in the past and that was my 1st mistake! (it reads .10+ draft wide open!).
By the way, I have an external masonary chimney that runs 22ft+ from basement threw top of house. Its on the end of house and about 5ft above house. Has a rain cap with wire mesh sides

JohnB · Post by **JohnB** » Wed. Dec. 18, 2013 10:23 pm

ridgeracing wrote:If I plan on leaving coal stove unattended any more for 2-3 days and turn down to an idle (240deg.) I will open MPD to a higher draft reading (.06-.08) to ensure a good draft is there. I had no manometer in the past and that was my 1st mistake! (it reads .10+ draft wide open!).

I'd like to get mine down that low! The other day when it was 10*F outside I saw .26 on the manometer with the stove running 450* & the rear damper open a bit. That was unusually high but .10 -.13 with the MPD closed is pretty normal. Supposed to be in the 50's this weekend so as soon as the couple inches of snow clears off the roof I'm heading up to lower the liner cap a bit. Hopefully that will get me closer to the .03-.06 range that Dean at Hitzer suggested.

SMITTY · Post by **SMITTY** » Wed. Dec. 18, 2013 11:30 pm

coalcracker wrote: .......... Usually any puffbacks from a Harman are smaller and more manageable due to the above-fire air inlets. ........

Really?

PICTURE: Cracked glass from EPIC explosion. Stove brand ...... wait for it ....... Harman MARK III!

PJT · Post by **PJT** » Wed. Dec. 18, 2013 11:37 pm

Cool illustration CoalCracker...but I can't figure out what the little stick figure running away from the stove is supposed to be...

Keepaeyeonit · Post by **Keepaeyeonit** » Thu. Dec. 19, 2013 8:46 am

Loco627 wrote:
Keepaeyeonit wrote:I still have cold feet with CO in the house so when we leave the dog goes outside I would not want to deal with loosing a family member from that at all.Keepaeyeonit
I have the same concern, but a great Dane can't be left outside. A new CO detector was just released called the Nest Protect. It's both a CO and smoke detector, and it can send alerts to your phone. I haven't ordered one yet, but I'm going to after Christmas. Not foolproof, but if I place it next to the stove hopefully that buys me enough time to get home before levels get dangerous upstairs. They can be found on Amazon and I'm sure lots of other places in the neighborhood of $130.

I have a monitored alarm system with fire and currently adding a CO detector to the system and a CCTV system after the first of the year just for that reason but I have my elderly father living with us so I have to keep a eye on them.

JohnB wrote:
ridgeracing wrote:If I plan on leaving coal stove unattended any more for 2-3 days and turn down to an idle (240deg.) I will open MPD to a higher draft reading (.06-.08) to ensure a good draft is there. I had no manometer in the past and that was my 1st mistake! (it reads .10+ draft wide open!).
I'd like to get mine down that low! The other day when it was 10*F outside I saw .26 on the manometer with the stove running 450* & the rear damper open a bit. That was unusually high but .10 -.13 with the MPD closed is pretty normal. Supposed to be in the 50's this weekend so as soon as the couple inches of snow clears off the roof I'm heading up to lower the liner cap a bit. Hopefully that will get me closer to the .03-.06 range that Dean at Hitzer suggested.

I had draft numbers like that to so I added a baro to my insert, I found it likes to run at somewhere between .06"and .08"WC.

JohnB · Post by **JohnB** » Thu. Dec. 19, 2013 9:00 am

If I had more room between the stove & liner tee I'd consider adding a baro. I'll see what I get after dropping the cap. If that doesn't do it I may have to move the stove further out. How long is a standard 6" baro Tee?

Speaking of puffbacks I mentioned to Dean that I had yet to see even a hint of one with my stove & asked him if it had a secondary air system that would explain my good luck. He put it down to my draft so evidently there is no such set up in the 50-93.

BPatrick · Post by **BPatrick** » Thu. Dec. 19, 2013 10:30 am

Coal Crackhead, who has ever paid $5000.00 for a stove restoration. Also, what antique base heater do you own or have owned that you have all this knowledge. Complete stoves including restoration range from $1,700-$2,800.00. A lot of that is the nickel work.

240 degrees doesn't heat anything; so is this really supposed to show efficiency? Wow, your easy to please as a retail customer. I'd like to know under running conditions, when my house is at the temp I want it to be, I bet my stove isn't running at 250. It's not hard at all to run a base heater at 240 degrees for 3 days either, so how did this shoot anything across the bow. You appear to be an argumentative person who just wants to stir crap up around here. Don't you have children to scare from underneath a bridge or something. It's Christmas, chill.

dustyashpan · Post by **dustyashpan** » Thu. Dec. 19, 2013 10:50 am

ridgeracing wrote:Until last weekend I have been very happy with my stove and its performance. Never had a glitch all last season. I have always had a strong draft and kept MPD 90% closed all last year. Well last weekend I went away for 3 days so I turned dial down to #2 witch gives it a 240deg. stove temp. I wanted to see how it would last unattended for that amount of time at a low temp.
I asked my father to stop by on the 2nd day and look at it but to leave it alone if everything was OK. He stopped by and everything was OK. I came home on the 3rd day and stove is burning OK but carbon monoxide detector is going off for who knows how long!
After opening house out to ventilate and open flue I realize what I did wrong. By me turning my average temp of 450deg down to 240deg my flue cooled down and my draft decreased. I have done this for a day at low temps but never more than 24hrs. I believe if I would have opened up draft stove would have been fine.
So I finally broke down and installed a Dwyer Mark 11 yesterday! Wish I would have done it earlier, now I can moniter my draft better during varing temps. With stove running at 450deg. I have .05 draft at fully closed MPD, If I open it it goes to .10! I feel much better having it now

those are good numbers. sealed hot water boiler run 180-200 F. water boil 212 F. holding 240 F. that long on that much fuel is kickin butt n taking names, that's steam boiler territory. its a keeper. watch CO it sneak up on you. careful with mpd angle. if you must use one, get mpd with bypass holes, or enlarge holes. airtight don't shouldnt need mpd.

Finally Installed Manometer!

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