New Member, New Stove

 
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Lightning
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Posts: 14669
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Sun. Jan. 26, 2014 4:03 pm

Scottaw wrote:I'll have to play around with the ash door, I've just been keeping them closed and letting the thermostat do all the work. It seems to be working fine as is, but I'm interested to see how it works with the ash vents. Is there a fear of over fire? I assumed with them closed, the back flap would control any chance of a runaway fire.
Are you looking to use the ash door vents only? or will the thermostat still be in use? If you plan to use the ash vents only, you'll be adjusting it a lot unless you have something to keep the draft pressure steady like a barometric damper..

This is how I run my furnace, no thermostat.. I just adjust my primary air setting to the desired heat output and the barometric keeps it steady.. :D

 
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lsayre
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Posts: 21781
Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
Location: Ohio
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75

Post by lsayre » Mon. Jan. 27, 2014 8:32 pm

Lightning wrote:This is how I run my furnace, no thermostat.. I just adjust my primary air setting to the desired heat output and the barometric keeps it steady.. :D
Does your furnace heat by "gravity", or by forced air?

 
Scottaw
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Location: Spruce Creek, PA

Post by Scottaw » Thu. Feb. 13, 2014 6:01 pm

Had a bit of a scare today. I've been running the stove around 500 for the past few days, on my way to work my wife calls me and says "why is the stove 700 degrees, it smells bad" So I am freaked out since I'm 45 min from home and my wife is dealing with a runaway stove. Thankfully from reading here I figured out over the phone that the damper flap had stuck open. She poked it, and it immediately closed down. So I had her keep an eye on it until it dropped back to 450.

I think what happened was I shook it down before I left, and it pulled the door farther open than it ever had before, and it got stuck.

So...how do I avoid this in the future? Had she not noticed it, who knows what could have happened. The stove has proper clearances and a heat shield, but I assume it would have just kept climbing in the 8 hours I was gone. Would it have ever extinguished itself? Any safety suggestions?


 
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Lightning
Site Moderator
Posts: 14669
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Thu. Feb. 13, 2014 6:19 pm

lsayre wrote:
Lightning wrote:This is how I run my furnace, no thermostat.. I just adjust my primary air setting to the desired heat output and the barometric keeps it steady.. :D
Does your furnace heat by "gravity", or by forced air?
Sorry I missed this Larry. Its forced air. I have a thermal snap switch that I installed on top the furnace air jacket that controls the blowers. During high heat demand the blowers run steady. During lower heat demand they cycle on and off. The snap switch turns the blowers on at 115 degrees and shuts them off at 105.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Posts: 6072
Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Thu. Feb. 13, 2014 7:42 pm

Scottaw,you could periodically lift the flap all the way open to check if it works loosely in the whole range of movement,not very scientific,but should be a simple solution.

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