Cookin' With Coal

The heat shield assembly from Heartland to get the stove as close as reasonably possible to a combustible wall. The curved heat shield behind the stovepipe not installed while I get the the pipe trial fitted to the manifold.

Stove designers did not improve the breed by moving the flue from the top of the cooktop to behind the splash back.

Reid

Interesting cut-away drawing of what I call a P door cook stove. These are double side like the "earlier" step stoves.
This is from the Clare Brothers of Preston Ontario stove catalogue.

Interesting to see the flue paths which were likely common to this type of stove and the oven ventilation flow which is probably a feature of specific stove models.

The method of shaking grates is different to what we are used to as is the grate style. Could be a example of a wood grate.

Until recently, I was unsure how these stoves would be positioned in the kitchen. I saw a couple of early photographs that showed the back of these stoves positioned in front of the kitchen fireplace hearth and the stove pipe immediately making a right angle bend to enter the fireplace. The stove hearth was pointing into the room space and family had access to the loading and oven doors on both sides.

Reid

Nice find Reid.

Interesting to see that the exhaust flue pathways are every bit as elaborate as later ranges. I see the the small right-angled handle for the direct/indirect damper in the flue collar, on the right side near the rear corner.

The oven vents that used stove pipe draft to draw baking "fumes" and moisture out were also incorporated in the design of some later ranges. The Acorn range that Melissa grew up with had an adjustable air intake just below the firebox that lead to the oven. It was next to, but not open to the ash pan area. And then, like my Glenwood, the oven vented into the flue just before the stove's exit collar. Not only does that send all the baking smells and iron-rusting moisture up the stove pipe, it also helped keep the oven clean of baking grease condensation. In the 15 years , of 9 months a year doing all out baking, we still have not needed to clean the oven. And we bake bacon on an open wire rack with just a cookie sheet under it to catch the drippings. Wonderfully simple and effective system,..... especially if you hate cleaning ovens.

Some ranges have a control rod to adjust the opening of the vent to the flue. There's more discussion about those oven vent systems with pix, further back in these posts.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote: ↑

Sat. Feb. 13, 2021 11:53 am

Interesting to see that the exhaust flue pathways are every bit as elaborate as later ranges. I see the the small right-angled handle for the direct/indirect damper in the flue collar, on the right side near the rear corner.

The oven vents that used stove pipe draft to draw baking "fumes" and moisture out were also incorporated in the design of some later ranges. The Acorn range that Melissa grew up with had an adjustable air intake just below the firebox that lead to the oven. It was next to, but not open to the ash pan area. And then, like my Glenwood, the oven vented into the flue just before the stove's exit collar. Not only does that send all the baking smells and iron-rusting moisture up the stove pipe, it also helped keep the oven clean of baking grease condensation. In the 15 years , of 9 months a year doing all out baking, we still have not needed to clean the oven. And we bake bacon on an open wire rack with just a cookie sheet under it to catch the drippings. Wonderfully simple and effective system,..... especially if you hate cleaning ovens.

Some ranges have a control rod to adjust the opening of the vent to the flue. There's more discussion about those oven vent systems with pix, further back in these posts.

Paul

Yes, I noted the rod behind the oven door with the right angle bend for the damper. I'm sure I saw that same location used, more or less, on more modern designs where it wasn't really convenient from a mechanical perspective. I guess that had become a standard location for the damper control early on.

The number of locations that air was supplied to the oven was interesting. Behind the door medallions seems a reasonable place.
Primary air from under the grate is interesting. Air would be heated somewhat but may draw ash into the oven when the grate was shaken.
With 2 large oddly shaped oven doors, there should be good potential for leakage air in that could ventilate the oven.
That number of bypasses to the flue via the oven would add a check damper affect. Probably one reason why the Acorn had an adjustable intake to the oven.

I'm hoping the Oval 's oven won't require cleaning.

Reid

Where you might have seen that direct/indirect damper handle is, it is just like the one on a Glenwood #6 base heater, and the handle for the water reservoir dampers for my range. Even located on the right rear side of both.

Later ranges like my '03 Glenwood did away with the separate oven air inlet. The oven door not being "airtight" is enough to feed the vent. And to help regulate oven temps - which those oven inlet vents did - they had an oven shelf on ramps that would raise up and hold the oven door partway open as the shelf was slid sideways. Also covered in these threads.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote: ↑

Sat. Feb. 13, 2021 6:53 pm

Where you might have seen that direct/indirect damper handle is, it is just like the one on a Glenwood #6 base heater, and the handle for the water reservoir dampers for my range. Even located on the right rear side of both.

Later ranges like my '03 Glenwood did away with the separate oven air inlet. The oven door not being "airtight" is enough to feed the vent. And to help regulate oven temps - which those oven inlet vents did - they had an oven shelf on ramps that would raise up and hold the oven door partway open as the shelf was slid sideways. Also covered in these threads.

Paul

I don't think it was a Glenwood. I have seen water reservoir dampers that looked just like that old stove damper, but usually lower down on the front.
I think it may have been an Acorn. Seem to recall a flat bar, that went along the right side in modern terminology and then along the back somewhere.

Reid

Your thinking of pix I posted in these threads of Melissa's Acorn with that long flat bar system for the direct/indirect damper. But the simple right-angle damper handle in the picture you posted is just like used on many Glenwoods.

Paul

I think I need a cut-away drawing of a Glenwood range.

Good morning all, I have a question that will certainly have many different responses. We have in the past pages talked about seasoning cast iron and there are certainly many different ways to do this. My question is: Has anyone used some of the new seasoning pastes that contain mixtures of oils and bee's wax? The marketing lingo says the bee's wax helps to bond the oils to the metal better. Since bee's wax is organic and non toxic I don't see a negative side at least as far as toxicity. What are your thoughts

Randy

Good morning.
I’m actually a dealer if the buzzywaxx brand cast iron seasoning, when applied to a clean bare iron pan it works well, I have a griz 12” skillet we use everyday and until I forgot about some hash cooking last weekend it’s held up incredibly well, after the has incident I had to scrub it too much and I wore through in a few places, I can mail you one to try if you would like
Dana

D.lapan wrote: ↑

Sun. Feb. 14, 2021 10:09 am

Good morning.
I’m actually a dealer if the buzzywaxx brand cast iron seasoning, when applied to a clean bare iron pan it works well, I have a griz 12” skillet we use everyday and until I forgot about some hash cooking last weekend it’s held up incredibly well, after the has incident I had to scrub it too much and I wore through in a few places, I can mail you one to try if you would like
Dana

I have ordered some along with a new carbon steel omelet pan and they should be here any day. (I ordered the one in the green can - olive oil, sunflower oil and beeswax). I am now wondering if I should have ordered the yellow can because I am now hearing the seed oils are better for seasoning. However now that I know you carry it, I will get it from you if I like it. I am happy to hear from you that you like it as I respect your opinion.

Randy

I had some green and yellows but it took for ever to sell the green ones so now I only order the yellow.

D.lapan wrote: ↑

Sun. Feb. 14, 2021 10:39 am

I had some green and yellows but it took for ever to sell the green ones so now I only order the yellow.

Sending a PM

Randy

First I've ever heard of seasoning cast iron using anything besides some type of fat or oil.

As to seed oils, my experiments with cleaning a cast iron pan down to bare metal, sanding it smooth and then baking on flax seed oil, gave a very hard and shiny surface. But, it didn't stick well to the cast iron in use. It flaked off very easily. To be fair, the flax seed oil I used was from flax seed supplement gel pills.

I cleaned that pan to bare metal again and seasoned it with regular vegetable oil and that surface has held up.

I'd be interested to hear more about how the beeswax works out.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote: ↑

Sun. Feb. 14, 2021 10:54 am

First I've ever heard of seasoning cast iron using anything besides some type of fat or oil.

As to seed oils, my experiments with cleaning a cast iron pan down to bare metal, sanding it smooth and then baking on flax seed oil, gave a very hard and shiny surface. But, it didn't stick well to the cast iron in use. It flaked off very easily. To be fair, the flax seed oil I used was from flax seed supplement gel pills.

I cleaned that pan to bare metal again and seasoned it with regular vegetable oil and that surface has held up.

I'd be interested to hear more about how the beeswax works out.

Paul

I too have not been happy with the flaxseed oil and I used the organic in a bottle. As you said, it worked well to give a hard surface but over time it has all flaked off. I will let you know how the Buzzywax works out.

Randy