Hopper Distortion

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
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joeq
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Posts: 3977
Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Stove/Furnace Make: Thermopride
Stove/Furnace Model: oil fired
Location: Northern CT

Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 7:16 pm

Looking to modify my Surdiac hopper in the future. As you can see, mine is a little ..."rough" around the edges, and guess this is common for this type of stove.
Image
Because the consensus is a larger coal bed will burn longer, would it be beneficial if I were to take my mason blade on my circular saw and cut off the choked down section, or the distorted bottom part of this hopper, which would allow a taller bed of burning coals, even if it reduced the hopper capacity. I've been reading the threads on using larger coal, and nut coal just plain clogs my hopper. If I increased the bottom opening by cutting the bad section off, I wonder if I could increase my burn times by running nut, rather than pea. Anyone?
I got coal in my Christmas stocking. (Yey!)
http://nepacrossroads.com/about36489.html

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warminmn
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Posts: 2479
Joined: Tue. Feb. 08, 2011 5:59 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Junior, Efel Nestor Martin, Frankenstove
Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite
Other Heating: wood and a little LP
Location: Land of 11,842 lakes, not 10,000

Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 8:35 pm

Does the hopper drop in thru the top? Mine does and I put a couple rows of rope gasket (used stuff I replace from doors) under the upper lip of my hopper and tie a knot in it, which probably raises it an inch or so. After I slice and move the fresh coal around with slicer my coal is just a little higher than the grate surround. I have never had my hopper plug from nut but I'm sure it could if conditions were right. The inside of my hopper is about 6" X 12". I cant measure my inside depth cuz I have a wood fire going in it. My hopper does show evidence of being overheated so I must have gotten it a little too hot last year. Or maybe its cuz I raised it. I cant recommend doing it, but thats what I did.

I don't know about cutting it.
I'm just an old chunk of coal now Lord but I'm gonna be a diamond some day - Billy Joe Shaver

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joeq
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Posts: 3977
Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Stove/Furnace Make: Thermopride
Stove/Furnace Model: oil fired
Location: Northern CT

Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 9:02 pm

Thanx for the input. My hopper won't go thru the top, but it could be shimmed up a little more like you did to yours, if I thought it would help. People in the past have had success mixing nut with pea, but the 2 times I tried it, both times clogged the mouth of the distorted hopper opening, preventing the fresh coal from dropping. That's why I might experiment next season by cutting off the bottom of mine. We'll see. it's difficult to keep the bottoms of these things from overheating because of the nature of the beast. They say we need to keep a full hoper to absorb all the heat, but it's tough to do when 1st lighting the stove, and when sleeping at nite, the coal drops to feed the fire. It's like a win/lose proposition.
Last edited by joeq on Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 11:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I got coal in my Christmas stocking. (Yey!)
http://nepacrossroads.com/about36489.html

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2001Sierra
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Joined: Wed. May. 20, 2009 8:09 am
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34
Stove/Furnace Model: Keystoker 90 Chimney Vent
Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany

Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 9:15 pm

My older Buderus 3115 had a similar design. The front of the hopper was removeable. It over many years showed signs of wear and minor distortion. I think it was the nature of the beast. These stoves where only in the 45000 to 60000 BTU rating so us Americans ran them a little harder than designed because our homes a larger than our European counterparts where these stoves where designed. My opinion, even though the Buderus served us well for over 27 years. My Keystoker 90 just cruises.

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franco b
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Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Location: Kent CT

Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 9:26 pm

I see Surdiac stoves all the time very cheap, so you can either get the bigger one and run it at a lower output or do as you say and shorten the hopper to get a deeper coal bed. you will also have to line above the fire pot with refractory and get a higher banking bar in front to contain the higher bed of coal.

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freetown fred
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Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Location: Freetown,NY 13803

Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 9:34 pm

Yep, what franco b says--I'd make my cut right at the top of that lip--ya even got nice straight lines to follow :)
"A people that values it's privileges above it's principals, soon loses both"--Dwight D Eisenhower

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joeq
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Posts: 3977
Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Stove/Furnace Make: Thermopride
Stove/Furnace Model: oil fired
Location: Northern CT

Post Sun. Nov. 03, 2013 11:15 pm

freetown fred wrote:I'd make my cut right at the top of that lip--ya even got nice straight lines to follow :)
If nothing more, it'ld make removal and installation of that hopper a little easier. When they designed the opening, they sure were stingy with their clearances. I don't think you could pass a piece of tin foil between them. I invent new 4 letter words, evertime I have to perform that task. :mad:
I got coal in my Christmas stocking. (Yey!)
http://nepacrossroads.com/about36489.html

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