Comparing Temps Between Flue Pipe and Stove Body

 
steamshovel
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Post by steamshovel » Mon. Jan. 05, 2015 9:05 pm

measured at front of firebox outer surface, between ash door and fire/fill door-
and outlet flange of stove itself where stovepipe connects, outer top surface
a decent stove will show 60% of heat staying on stove side
for example 500 degrees front temp, 200 degrees outlet temp, would be ballpark 60% eff.
with larger draft opening, on a good draft day, with good coal it will go higher than 60%. I've seen 70-80% for spurts on a stove, but at that rate its really starting to eat the coal. the larger draft, will bring higher efficiency %, put more heat in the home, but will burn more coal faster, so it's not a setting for a warmer day
every stove has a setting where it hits its highest numbers %-wise
on warm days dampened off to barely idling, the eff. % drops off usually
it's a mistake to measure the flue temp far away from the stove, as that measures the radiating ability of the stovepipe, not the efficiency of stove itself. a really long stovepipe will be nearly cold where it exits to the outside. a long exposed stovepipe inside the home, acts as a radiator and is a good setup. it salvages maximum heat from the exhaust gases.
junk coal will also drop the eff% down under 60%, to wood stove level 50%, because it takes more draft to burn dirty coal, but it doesn't have the BTU of cleaner coal, so the stove temp is lower in relation to the flue temp

 
ddahlgren
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Post by ddahlgren » Mon. Jan. 05, 2015 9:45 pm

it's a mistake to measure the flue temp far away from the stove, as that measures the radiating ability of the stovepipe, not the efficiency of stove itself. a really long stovepipe will be nearly cold where it exits to the outside. a long exposed stovepipe inside the home, acts as a radiator and is a good setup. it salvages maximum heat from the exhaust gases.
It is all part of the overall heating plant and however you make the heat is all fair game!

 
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Formulabruce
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Post by Formulabruce » Mon. Jan. 05, 2015 10:35 pm

I run around 380-400 degrees (f) on my Chubby and 1 foot up the pipe past the MPD I am at 170-180.. That seems to be the best it can do with the bends, the draft, and coal.. I am betting everyone's numbers are different though . Have no real idea how efficient that is, but its heating this 1862 built drafty house. (1600 sqft).


 
ddahlgren
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Post by ddahlgren » Mon. Jan. 05, 2015 10:58 pm

Formulabruce wrote:I run around 380-400 degrees (f) on my Chubby and 1 foot up the pipe past the MPD I am at 170-180.. That seems to be the best it can do with the bends, the draft, and coal.. I am betting everyone's numbers are different though . Have no real idea how efficient that is, but its heating this 1862 built drafty house. (1600 sqft).
I am in the same boat as you with the Crane 404 and 1874 un-insulated house with single pane glass. I usually run a 1/4 to 1/2 torn open and tonight so cold going for 3 turns and a load of Kimmels coal.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Jan. 06, 2015 7:39 am

And if you are measuring near your mpd it is false also, take your IR gun and measure temp before at and after the mpd, where your mpd is I found runs "hotter" because there is steal in there that is holding heat, jus a FYI. what do the new manufacturers do when measuring things?

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