Coalpail.com Forum

one of my concerns exactly.

i don't know if this was a stand alone installation or an add on / back up though so will have to look close.

i hate it when things get messed up trying to fit schedules together at 3 ends at once.

right now I have a seasons coal on hand, new floor protection, stove boards back in place on walls and NO stove.

timing went south on my being able to get to the coal yard and the stove shop during their business hours yesterday after being at work till noon.

so now i'm sitting here in a house, that is cooler inside than the current outside temp, reading about you guys lighting up.

things better go well tomorrow. the next 2 weeks are going to be a big drop here with 8 days and or nights of rain and a skiff of snow with lows right at freezing.

the wife left for LA today so in a worst case I have till friday to get er done.

SCORE !!

got out to the stove shop this afternoon to look over the stoves. the yr. old one that was being replaced had all the hallmarks of being run hard, no visible warping but lots of broken fire brick and the interior was worse for wear in general. no deal on that one.

the new one is real good. needed to adjust and tighten the glass in the door and that was it.

put it just inside the overhead door of the garage with an elbow and 1 piece of smoke pipe sticking out into the breeze and lit it up with enough wood to smoke off the oils and set the paint.

have my son and some of my friends coming over tomorrow night to bring it in the house and put it in place. that was a one man with an appliance dolly process for the Riteway but this 1400 weighs 470 #'s and I couldn't rock it up off the ground with the dolly by my self tonight.

so, all is well and i'm excited to see how a load of coal will go. will probably just run one fire box the first time and see how it goes.

With the house cooled down it will feel doubly good to feel the heat. But what is this one fire box thing? Light it and run it for the winter.

well, I was kind of interested to see what kind of burn time it would have, and, I don't have a Baro yet so I was thinking i'd run it as I had my other stove in a kind of test mode and be ready to let it burn out at a strategic time to add one and perhaps a MPD if it seems advantageous.

the forecast for my area is not great for the next 2 weeks then there will be a slight warming trend so i'll probably run it at least that long and make decisions at that point.

With the thermostat you may not need any damper. this will be a good test to see if that is so.

right I never had either on the Riteway but on really fierce days I did loose too much heat up the chimney.

quoting from my new DS operating manual

" if you do not have a barometric or manual damper in a DS coal stove you must install one now. read instructions on barometric damper before installing. you need a 0.06 water column on all DS coal stoves. manual dampers work good but you need to be cautious because a manual damper can restrict draft so much that it can create carbon monoxide. "

time will tell.

KingCoal wrote:right I never had either on the Riteway but on really fierce days I did loose too much heat up the chimney.

Is that because it was really cold and you were pushing the stove hard or do you mean that the draft was too high for the stove thermostat to handle?

mostly due to the fact that I wasn't letting the intake damper completely close which in all other cases worked perfect but in real cold and high draft cost me about 20 extra #'s a day.

i expect it to be different with this stove since the fuel bed is much more optimal, so i'm going to let it run as designed and see what it does.

stove is hooked up and burning a starter group of charcoal. about to start putting nut in.

what bead on the chain are other DSM circulator users using ?

my house is 54* f i'm on #6 bead with the dial set on lowest position. the damper has just shut and the stove top between the hopper door and the edge of the stove is 400*.

It's a relative thing, but I would suggest with a cold stove and the adjustment set at it's lowest the flap should just barely start to open.

yeah I figured that. as it's warming up I've changed the bead setting and am now running about 350 * stove top on 1.75 setting on the dial.

i can see that as the house warms and the stove burns steady, longer the bi metal will settle in and i'll find the final setting.

i looked at alot of pics of these stoves on various sites and had been concerned about the unbaffled exit collar. this stove has a real nice baffle. maybe it''s a newer thing ?

Houston, we have orbit.

took 5 hrs. to raise the temp. of a stone cold house from 52 * to 62 *, I think that's reasonable from past experience.

this stove works so well that it's not easy to get it filled to the top of the bricks and I never did over night nor this morning after a shake down and re charge.

stove ran faultlessly over night on #2 setting showing 350 * stove top and 150 * on the smoke pipe. it seems to be drawing heat from dark matter or doing some 0 input fusion magigger nonsense cause it sure ain't burning much coal. i'm REALLY going to like this.

next report 5:30 pm after work.

Sounds like you are on the track to success and warm comfort.

yes, it seems the only tricky matter with this installation is if I will go with draft damping of any sort.

most of the comments I have found here from DS circulator owners is that they ARE using dampers, either / or , and some both.

i have an elbow at 90* coming out of the stove collar, 20 " of single wall and an elbow at 90* into the flue spigot with 21 ' of smooth wall 316 SS flex liner above that inside a masonary chimney that runs up the center of the house. very dependable draft even at 70 * outside.

if I use an MPD right above the stove elbow and a Baro between there and the wall elbow that 20 " is going to be pretty busy.

i don't mind that, I have already measured it up as doable, just thinking about it.

most of the posts about this are in threads started 2-3 yrs. back and if those stoves were / are like the pics on messick stove I can easily see that they would respond well to dampers to slow the exit of all the heat straight out the back of the stove.

my stove isn't like that. there is a clam shell shelf / baffle above the back of the fire box that extends out toward the back of the hopper, is 3/4 the width of the interior of the stove and arches up to the center line of the exit ring / flange. this forces the heat to move first forward and to the sides, then up and back around the ends of the shelf to get out.

from what i'm seeing this heat soaks the tubes , they work very well by the way, redirects the heat up and back across the outer top of the stove, around the shelf and out.

we have also seen a comment about alot of heat coming off the back of earlier circulators , my stove is not putting much heat out the back at all.

"curious and curioser"