Mark II Three Windows Version- Bolts Needed

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Uglysquirrel
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Post Mon. Jan. 07, 2008 8:53 pm

Hello, this is a great coal site and I'll be on here a lot more. A used Harman Mark II three window version was purchased several years ago, relined and pretty reddy to go except I lost a couple of the bolts that hold the window frame again the back of the door. The factory indicated they no longer carry these bolts. Should I be using high temp bolts like nickel with silver plate or will Grade 8 bolts be acceptable? Also, have there been any service probs like glass cracking with the three windowed version? (I have purchased three new panes). Thank you, Bruce.

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SuperBeetle
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Location: Gettysburg, PA

Post Tue. Jan. 08, 2008 7:10 am

I have grade 8 bolts in mine and have had no problems with them. I do put Never Seize on them when I put the frame back together. I have had no issues with the 3 glass panels. Have had the stove for 15 years.

stanpjrh
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Post Tue. Jan. 08, 2008 9:18 pm

Uglysquirrel wrote:Hello, this is a great coal site and I'll be on here a lot more. A used Harman Mark II three window version was purchased several years ago, relined and pretty reddy to go except I lost a couple of the bolts that hold the window frame again the back of the door. The factory indicated they no longer carry these bolts. Should I be using high temp bolts like nickel with silver plate or will Grade 8 bolts be acceptable? Also, have there been any service probs like glass cracking with the three windowed version? (I have purchased three new panes). Thank you, Bruce.
Bruce I have a mark III can I ask how much the glass cost you. Anyone else know. Thanks,Stan P.S. I have the three pane also

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Uglysquirrel
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Post Sat. Jan. 12, 2008 10:27 pm

Superbeetle and Stan, thanks for the Grade 8 bolt info and neverseize! It kind of gives a lot better feeling that what you are doing has worked before on something as important as a ~2000 deg coal fire. Stan, I purchased the panes in CT around three years ago and my feeble mind suggests I paid something like 12-17 per pane. They had to be ordered thru a local dealer and the factory did have them. The dealer said to buy new gasket material. As you likely know the gasket material only goes around three sides of the glass with the bottom side of the door not having any gasket, or at least that is how I found mine after purchasing used. And thanks you for the info on good three pane history... Bruce

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SuperBeetle
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Post Sun. Jan. 13, 2008 3:23 pm

Mine does not have the gasket around the top of the glass. I purchased the stove refurbished from a dealer. It seems that someone left the ash door open and there was some "meltdown" to the grates as well as some other components including the baffle. There was also a crack in the right rear corner. The stove was repaired to look like new. The gaskets and the three glass panes were replaced at the factory so I assume it was done properly but, I am not 100% certain. The guy gave me a hell of a deal and a 5 year warranty on the stove. Sadly, he died from Prostate cancer a few years ago.

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Uglysquirrel
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Post Thu. May. 08, 2008 9:03 pm

Stan, regarding the three pane window type, my feeble mind reminded me each one is around 14.00 as of two years ago. Each pane has gasket material on three sides with the non-gasketed side down at the bottom. This configuration was carefully inspected before OEM window removal.

Hope this helps.

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coal-cooker
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Post Thu. May. 08, 2008 9:36 pm

I just bought all three panes in pyroceramic from Portland Glass and it was $92 for all three. I bought a small window for my other stove a couple of years ago and it was much cheaper at that time. I also bought new 1/4 inch bolts, but the length of the factory bolts are not a standard length. You may have to grind them down a bit.

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LsFarm
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Post Fri. May. 09, 2008 1:48 am

Just a comment and suggestion: when you tighten the bolts down, remember that you are tightening against expensive 'glass' panels... with gasket material around them the amount of pressure is hard to guage safely... many folks have broken their new 'glass'..

So I would suggest installing the 'glass' and frames,, snugging down the bolts just past 'finger tight'... and leave them alone for a few days, then go back and tighten them up again. Do this as often as needed 'till you notice that you can't tighten them anymore,, meaning the gaskets have compressed as much as they want to..

And also.. you aren't tightening the lug-nuts on an Eighteen-wheeler!! you really are only holding the 'glass' in place,, there is a slight vacuum on the stove, and the gasket is not a perfect seal,, it's open at the bottom to allow venting... So just tighten enough to secure the window so it won't fall out when you open and close the door..

Sorry for nagging,, but it's not fun to look at a cracked piece of glass everyday, and be reminded of your 'mistake'..

Greg L

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Razzler
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Post Fri. May. 09, 2008 10:22 am

[/quote]
Bruce I have a mark III can I ask how much the glass cost you. Anyone else know. Thanks,Stan P.S. I have the three pane also[/quote]

I just got a price of $14.95 a per pane last week for a mark II.

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Uglysquirrel
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Post Fri. May. 09, 2008 8:57 pm

Great advice, I hear ya on the torquing. After you pick up one of these panes you know it's *special* high heat stuff, really dense. As noted above, the last time I ordered some it took something like ~2 summer months to get in. The dealer off Rt 44 in Ashford CT was very good as far was helping me get parts.

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