I Decided on This Stove.

 
ColdHouse
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Post by ColdHouse » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 3:17 pm

I decided to spend little and reap benefits now. I have entertained boilers, fireplace inserts, and stokers and decided to purchase this relatively inexpensive lightly used Glacier Bay stove. It will fit in front of my fireplace & even slip into it as my wife wants. So now that I am the proud owner of a stove, and I want it to vent out of my terra-cotta fireplace chimney please give me some installation advice. What do I need to buy and have on hand to install this stove? Thank you!

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Den034071
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Post by Den034071 » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 3:47 pm

ch ole mason here 40 plus years .Damper on fire place is 4 inches.Maybe a tinsmith can make you an adapter to go through an up chim .Not really a goog idea as your stove is 6 in./ exhaust.Better to cut about 2 feet above damper an thru your face brick on wall of fireplace .Ive rented a 15 lb. elestric jack hammer an cut thru where I said .Dont be afraid to do it .Read old post on forum how to cut thru a concrete wall . pm me if you are confused. jack

 
ColdHouse
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Post by ColdHouse » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 3:51 pm

My damper is 6".

 
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Wiz
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Post by Wiz » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 7:03 pm

I'll let the experts on install. Before you enjoy the benefit of coal, first thing on list before firing it..
1 carbon monoxide detector ( Good one!)
2 Check doors' gasket. place dollar bill between door and stove, shut door. Dollar bill shouldn't slip out. Personally I would change them before firing up.
3 mano meter to check draft.

 
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Post by franco b » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 7:15 pm

The stove should have some sort of banking plate in the front to allow higher stacking of coal. This stove is similar to Gibraltar which uses one.

6 inch clearance through the damper should allow you to go straight back to either a tee with capped bottom or elbow and maybe one or two lengths of pipe to reach the chimney proper. Stuff unfaced fiberglass to seal.

 
ColdHouse
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Post by ColdHouse » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 7:47 pm

Would I need some type of damper on the stove pipe? Do I use any type of sealant or tape?

 
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Post by franco b » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 8:02 pm

ColdHouse wrote:Would I need some type of damper on the stove pipe? Do I use any type of sealant or tape?
My preference is for a barometric damper on a stove lacking a thermostat to control incoming air. Very weak draft it doesn't matter but with strong or varying draft the fire will be steadier. Could be put in a tee just at the stove exit and by removing it the pipe can be inspected and even cleaned a bit.. Stuffed fiberglass should be seal enough. I assume the pipe will be braced by the damper opening on one end and the stove on the other so should be pretty solid. You need that banking plate otherwise coal will spill out the door. Nut coal should be about 8 inches deep at least.


 
ColdHouse
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Post by ColdHouse » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 8:08 pm

franco b wrote:
ColdHouse wrote:Would I need some type of damper on the stove pipe? Do I use any type of sealant or tape?
My preference is for a barometric damper on a stove lacking a thermostat to control incoming air. Very weak draft it doesn't matter but with strong or varying draft the fire will be steadier. Could be put in a tee just at the stove exit and by removing it the pipe can be inspected and even cleaned a bit.. Stuffed fiberglass should be seal enough.
So no sealant is needed in the stove pipe fittings? Would you be kind enough to furnish a link on the barometric damper?

 
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Post by franco b » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 8:19 pm

The pipe only needs to be fitted together and have 3 screws at each joint to hold together . An absolutely airtight fitting is not necessary since the pressure inside is always negative. If you want you can seal with Permatex hi heat silicone.

The most popular baro is the Field RC which you can Google for a million sellers or even find on Ebay. The type M is more expensive and seals better around the edges. The RC usually comes with a sheet metal mounting so if you want you can cut a hole in normal pipe to mount.
https://www.google.com/search?q=field+rc&oq=field ... ric+damper

 
ColdHouse
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Post by ColdHouse » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 8:35 pm

I feel kinda like an idiot. I should connect a t directly to the back of the stove pointing upward? From the top of the T I connect my stove pipe that goes into the fire place chimney. In the back of the T I put the barometric damper?

 
franco b
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Post by franco b » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 8:57 pm

ColdHouse wrote:I feel kinda like an idiot. I should connect a t directly to the back of the stove pointing upward? From the top of the T I connect my stove pipe that goes into the fire place chimney. In the back of the T I put the barometric damper?
I understand your confusion which I think is caused by my not realizing how little room you have behind the stove before going up the chimney. My thought was to have the straight part of the tee in the stove with the middle part which is called the bull on its side with a baro in it and then an elbow or another tee acting as an elbow and capped on the bottom going up the chimney. You could do it your way but the baro then becomes hard to get at to adjust or even see if it is working. Using a second tee as an elbow as I suggested might cause a problem as the bull is not crimped so you would have to use an elbow. Depends if the stove accepts the crimped end or the smooth end and how much room you have before going up the chimney. Gonna harp again for a banking plate.
Last edited by franco b on Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 8:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by dcrane » Wed. Oct. 02, 2013 8:58 pm

great chimney! lucky ducky to have a 6" damper! I would simply set the stove up on hearth use a 12" long black stove pipe out back of stove, then place a T on that, use the 12" section of the back of the stove to place your Manual Pipe Damper (Here we goooooo! toothy ), then get enough strait black stove pipe to get into the terra cotta section (usually 4 feet is good), be careful you don't buy long lengths (remember you need to make the "angle" through the fireplace to get them up into the chimney)... maybe 2 or 3 "two foot" lengths should do you fine! make sure you place 3 or 4 screws in each section your connecting (you don't need to cement the pipe sections, it will only fail anyways because the expansion and contraction is to great to be of use). get some fire rated insulation and stuff it up around the pipe nice and tight!

 
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Post by ColdHouse » Sat. Oct. 05, 2013 1:52 pm

I picked up the stove today. Prior to pick up I went to Home Depot and bought 4) 2"x4" x 8', 2) 2"x10" x 12' and a set of their cheapest ratchet straps. To load the stove we strapped 2 2x4's to the back of the stove with 2 straps. We opened the tailgate and backed the truck up a few feet away from the stove. We tilted the stove so until the 2x4's were laying on the tailgate. We went to the front of the stove and picked it up and slid it into the pick up bed. Easy peasy! When we got home we stood the stove upright. Backed the truck as close to my stairs as possible. Layed the 2x10 in the truck & on the top step. We used a 2 wheel dolly and rolled that sucker right into the living room. Easy Peasy nice and easy! I ordered from amazon an manometer and barometric damper and a CO detecter. Home Depot does not carry black stove pipe but a place a couple of miles away does. No need for the pipe or fittings until I get the stuff from Amazon. Stove looks like it was hardly ever used. Oh forgot to mention after unloading the stove my son meticulously repackaged the ratchet straps and we returned all the lumber and straps for a full refund.

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DePippo79
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Post by DePippo79 » Sat. Oct. 05, 2013 8:15 pm

If you haven't ordered it already the black stove pipe at Home Depot is hidden in the AC ducting. Usually on top shelf hard to get to. Look yourself, don't trucst one of thier associates. Good luck. Looks like you have things under control. Matt

 
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EasyRay
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Post by EasyRay » Tue. Oct. 08, 2013 11:13 am

ColdHouse wrote:I picked up the stove today. Prior to pick up I went to Home Depot and bought 4) 2"x4" x 8', 2) 2"x10" x 12' and a set of their cheapest ratchet straps. To load the stove we strapped 2 2x4's to the back of the stove with 2 straps. We opened the tailgate and backed the truck up a few feet away from the stove. We tilted the stove so until the 2x4's were laying on the tailgate. We went to the front of the stove and picked it up and slid it into the pick up bed. Easy peasy! When we got home we stood the stove upright. Backed the truck as close to my stairs as possible. Layed the 2x10 in the truck & on the top step. We used a 2 wheel dolly and rolled that sucker right into the living room. Easy Peasy nice and easy! I ordered from amazon an manometer and barometric damper and a CO detecter. Home Depot does not carry black stove pipe but a place a couple of miles away does. No need for the pipe or fittings until I get the stuff from Amazon. Stove looks like it was hardly ever used. Oh forgot to mention after unloading the stove my son meticulously repackaged the ratchet straps and we returned all the lumber and straps for a full refund.
Tractor Supply across the street from the car wash on route 6 in Farmington, carries 6 & 8 inch Black stove pipe and fittings. :)


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