Alaska Kodiak Putting Out Very Little Heat...Help...Please

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
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Bob1776
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Post Fri. Jan. 04, 2008 6:09 am

My new Alaska Kodiak is putting out very little heat. It is almost to the point I can put my hand on the stove without burning it. It exhausts into a 6" masonary chimney that is 6" in dia and about 30' high. From what I have read here (alot of good info by the way), most would reccomend using a manual damper to slow the exhaust and make sure the hot gasses reside in the stove longer. Is this a good idea? Any additional safety precautions to take? (I do have CO detectors through out the house) Also, should the manual damper be before or after the barometric damper? Any input will be much appricated.

bigchunk
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Stove/Furnace Make: harman
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Post Fri. Jan. 04, 2008 6:26 am

could you post a pic of the stove. give us a idea of whats going on. thanks.

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WNY
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Post Fri. Jan. 04, 2008 6:56 am

The manual damper has been discussed quite a bit,

Have you check your baro damper and the draft of the stove First? It may not be adjusted correctly and you are loosing alot of heat up your chimney. You need to get and/or borrow the Manometer to check your actual draft and adjust the baro damper so you know what it is doing before doing anything else. I was suprise how far off mine was and all the heat being lost up the chimney...
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coaledsweat
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Post Fri. Jan. 04, 2008 3:16 pm

Bob1776 wrote: From what I have read here (alot of good info by the way), most would reccomend using a manual damper to slow the exhaust and make sure the hot gasses reside in the stove longer.

Also, should the manual damper be before or after the barometric damper? Any input will be much appricated.


I use a manual, it seems to work for me. I will caution you that the overfire draft can go positive with the use of a manual damper if you have a forced draft (blower). I'm not trying to scare you, just make sure you know whats going on here. You will need good gaskets and no leaks.

The manual should be as close to the unit's outlet as possible, the baro must be after it at some distance, never before.
Nothing is impossible for people who don't have to do it themselves.

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