Refractory Cord or Cement.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sat. Sep. 07, 2013 9:23 pm

Then you'll love this one jp---keeps ya further away from the stove. :clap: toothy

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franco b
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Post by franco b » Sat. Sep. 07, 2013 9:25 pm

just peter wrote:The poker at the front I had in mind.

Peter.
The poker at the front is more for going from underneath the grate. I had in mind to go across the top of the grate.

 
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Post by just peter » Sun. Sep. 08, 2013 5:49 pm

At the top of the grate is better, because of the grate support.
But there is little room under the door.
I have to check out tomorrow how much I have.
I don't know if I can grind the bottom of the door.

Peter

 
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Post by franco b » Sun. Sep. 08, 2013 6:15 pm

You only need 4mm.

 
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just peter
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Post by just peter » Tue. Sep. 10, 2013 2:40 pm

Today I checked the play between the grate and the grate door, and it's just 2 mm.

Peter.

 
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Post by franco b » Tue. Sep. 10, 2013 4:07 pm

just peter wrote:Today I checked the play between the grate and the grate door, and it's just 2 mm.

Peter.
So just file or grind it. You only have to do it in maybe two spots and not all the way across the door. Once through the skin cast iron files very easily. Start with piece of steel for poker 3mm thick by 20mm or less wide and 600mm long. See what coverage it will give leaving it straight. If you need an offset then you have to cut it to the angle you want and have it welded. Heat red hot and bend around something to form the last 100mm into a handle.

The poker I pictured is a stock Franco Belge poker. Perhaps it is available in your country cheaply.

 
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Post by just peter » Tue. Sep. 10, 2013 6:15 pm

Thanks Franco, I do a search for the poker maby I can find it in belgium.
otherwise I have to fabricate it.

Peter.


 
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just peter
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Post by just peter » Fri. Sep. 13, 2013 3:00 pm

This week I finnished the stove body, I let the cement dry according the manual for 24H.
Put some tubing on the stove what ended trough the door of the shed, and started with a small fire to break the stove in, because of the water in all the cement and the firebricks, a bit difficult.
The next day I made a bigger fire, stil with wood, and the stove burnt nice the second time.
When the stove was warmed up, I tought I give it a trye with coal.
Well the stove doesn't like the bituminous coal :oops:
And I got only 2.5 tons of it in the yard. :mad:

Peter.

 
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Post by franco b » Fri. Sep. 13, 2013 4:08 pm

I have no personal experience with bit coal. The antique stoves designed for this coal in general provided a very hot supply of secondary air above the fire. Member Berlin who has a great deal of experience with this coal recommends large pieces like a softball or grapefruit. I would think this releases the gas slower in much the same way as a large log of wood does. Try adding smaller quantities so the burning does not overwhelm the air handling. Burning any fuel cleanly including gas means adding air uniformly and in sufficient quantity. Some stokers can handle bit very well because the feed rate can be adjusted to the air handling.

I do think you are going to have to add some method of feeding very hot air over the fire to get satisfaction. Something similar to how modern wood stoves do it. Perhaps a perforated pipe over the fire with the ends extending to the outside of the stove and with means to adjust the opening.

The picture shows one method in an antique.

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Post by just peter » Fri. Sep. 13, 2013 5:29 pm

Exactly what you show on the picture I would made for the stove.
It turned out I gouldn't fit the proper size in the stove,because of moulded reïforcement edges, in the top of the stove.
I won't drill or cut thes edges, I think it weakens the stove top too much.
I have experience with a wood stove with such a design and it worked like a charm.
Tomorrow comes the chimney sweep, and I want then set up the weso in the heart.
When it's burning time, it's too warm yet, I will do some extra tests with the coal I have,
or I have to purchase some anthracite, wich is a pain in the wallet.
And make it a project for next summer to change the design of the stove, it buys me some time to
think over it.

Peter.

 
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Post by 2001Sierra » Fri. Sep. 13, 2013 9:41 pm

The poker in the front could get you into trouble. You want to knife across the grate because the one with the right angle bend can get caught between the aggregate of the coal and the outer side grate, perimeter.You really want to get excited just try to remove your poker from the coal with the ash door open and a good draft :mad: The coal train can really get going as you try to unjam it :oops:

Franco b's pokers are the way to go!

 
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Post by just peter » Sat. Sep. 14, 2013 3:32 pm

I think I get the picture, and don't like what I see on it.

Peter

 
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Post by just peter » Thu. Sep. 26, 2013 2:09 pm

Hello, my friends.
As said in a earlier post, saturday 14 september has the chimney sweep done his job.
So I started installing the stove.
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The heavy lifting is done, my son in law and a friend did that for me, and altough the stove body
weights aprox 140 kg. it was easy for those big boys.
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Then the side panels and the cast iron front door.
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Then the two tiles in front of the heat exchanger.
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The tiled top
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The metal heat shields.
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And voila, the whatever you call it stove top thingy
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from the right side
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from the left.
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and the top.

Well offcourse I gouldn't resist the urge to light the stove.
Altough it was to warm for it and have to let the door open.
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See how it burn.

And now the good news.
After connecting the stove at a proper chimney.

The stove burns the coal I have nice, not to mention the stove loves it, burn it nice and slow to
a fine pulveryish ash. :lol:

LIVE IS GOOOOOOD.

Peter

 
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Post by franco b » Thu. Sep. 26, 2013 5:42 pm

Congratulations. That is a pretty stove, and now it is working well. Makes all your work worthwhile.

 
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Post by nortcan » Thu. Sep. 26, 2013 7:21 pm

Bravo for the nice job, the stove looks very good.
What's the temp. in your Country now? And during the coldest Winter month?


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