Well I spent 2 years with the WM 414a 40 lbs coal stove in my house . It did good for me . I would like to move it to the garage and set it up in there . Right in the center of the garage .
So ideas are needed and some direction. I have no chimney in the garage so I'm guessing triple wall ? Here is a shot of the garage ceiling . It's a two story . I am debating on going straight up through the roof or straight up under the second floor then over and up so I don't need to put a hole in the roof ... Or build myself a masonry chimney ... But the first idea is probably a lot cheaper and quicker . I would like to have something set up for this winter but I don't know if ill have the funds for that yet. Ideas ?
http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa471/SuperJA ... A56C46.jpg
Btw my garage is about 1500 sq ft . And over 100 ft from the house .
Moving the WM 414a to the Garage.
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I think you need a bigger stove for that area, especially uninsulated.
Go straight up through the roof. It is easier, faster and much cheaper and a better chimney.
Check your craigslist for double wall pipe. Often a wood burner is selling and the pipes are in good shape from wood. Single wall up to ceiling, then support piece followed by double wall to roof and through. The hole in the roof is no harder than hole in the wall, maybe easier since there is no siding to cut and provide drip edges, not as scary as you think. Locate the hole positions with a plumb bob to miss beams and rafters then cut through roof shingles and all a square hole. Slip flashing piece under a course of shingles, nail down and assemble pipe. the flashing provides side bracing up to three feet above roof.
Go straight up through the roof. It is easier, faster and much cheaper and a better chimney.
Check your craigslist for double wall pipe. Often a wood burner is selling and the pipes are in good shape from wood. Single wall up to ceiling, then support piece followed by double wall to roof and through. The hole in the roof is no harder than hole in the wall, maybe easier since there is no siding to cut and provide drip edges, not as scary as you think. Locate the hole positions with a plumb bob to miss beams and rafters then cut through roof shingles and all a square hole. Slip flashing piece under a course of shingles, nail down and assemble pipe. the flashing provides side bracing up to three feet above roof.
- freetown fred
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Yep, what franco b. said Although I think the 414a will suffice--not tropical, but sufficient.
- Smokeyja
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Thanks guys! I need to start making a profit soon so I can spend the money on piping . Otherwise it's another season of kerosene in the garage .
The straight pipe through the ceiling sounds good I'm going to try to make a flange for quick release for the summer .
The straight pipe through the ceiling sounds good I'm going to try to make a flange for quick release for the summer .
- warminmn
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Mostly as franko said, this is what I did. I used one piece of new insulated stainless double wall ($75), 3 feet long. Bought the ceiling support ($35) to sit it in and the pipe adapter ($20). And the flashing (cone shaped piece)($30) to keep it from leaking. I put a cheaper roof cap ($10) on it as it. I went thru my roof on a shed, leaving 2" gap between combustibles. The prices are now prices at Menards but would be similar at Lowes or Home Depot I would think. So it would cost me $170 now, plus the piping to the stove itself, plus tax. And would meet code if that matters to you. It didnt matter to me but I didnt want my shed to burn down. I'm sure you can find some used double wall cheaper and you might be able to get by without the flashing if you used enough caulking.(and add it when you get money) You could skip the cap(and add when you have money) if you have a bend to let water leak somewhere besides inside your stove. I wouldnt want to do it w/o the support or adapter but you may be able to cobble something together.