Hitzer 50-93 Info

 
JohnB
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Posts: 528
Joined: Sat. Jul. 06, 2013 6:06 pm
Location: Northeastern Ct.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Mostly nut, some pea

Post by JohnB » Mon. Jul. 29, 2013 6:48 pm

I'll be installing a MPD & a couple more CO detectors but I also plan to monitor stove temp. This will be my first year burning coal as you know plus I'll be burning wood in the Hitzer so I want to know what temp range the stove is running in while I get used to playing with the draft controls.

 
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freetown fred
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Posts: 30293
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Mon. Jul. 29, 2013 8:08 pm

There's 50-93 users that use them, somebody will chime in JB.

 
cowentz
Member
Posts: 126
Joined: Fri. Dec. 21, 2007 8:22 am
Location: York county, PA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kast Console II Hearth

Post by cowentz » Tue. Jul. 30, 2013 7:37 am

I got the hopper boot and grate holder out of the stove. The hopper boot was held in place with carriage bolts so I had to grind the heads off to get them out. The boot is missing a chunk of steel in the back so I will replace this. The frame isn't too bad but I am going to replace it anyway. I will also order all new gaskets. This must be an older model stove. My hopper door does not have a latch on it, and it is not cast metal. Do you think I should weld a new sheet of metal to the inside front and rear of the hopper, or just install the new boot and don't worry about it?

Attachments

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hopper boot. Missing piece of steel bottom rear center.

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Grate holder

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101_2483.JPG
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101_2486.JPG
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freetown fred
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Posts: 30293
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Tue. Jul. 30, 2013 8:39 am

c, I just slipped the new boot over existing hopper & she over-lapped just fine. If your hopper is really trashed, which it does not look like it is, you can weld the plates on the inside---whatever you're more comfortable with. Like I stated, mine's been working fine for 6 seasons. My hopper flap has no latch either & is 1/8 steel--new gaskets & you will be fine. Good move replacing the grate frame.


 
JohnB
Member
Posts: 528
Joined: Sat. Jul. 06, 2013 6:06 pm
Location: Northeastern Ct.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Mostly nut, some pea

Post by JohnB » Tue. Jul. 30, 2013 9:11 am

I guess since Fred is still with us that early hopper cover seals better then you would think it would. Still I'm surprised to see that Hitzer ever sold the stove without a latch to lock that lid down & compress the gasket for a tight seal. When it was still outside I built a small wood fire in my stove to season the paint. Since I had the top cover down I forgot that I hadn't latched the hopper cover. When I opened it after the fire you could clearly see where smoke had coated the gasket & escaped on the side opposite of the hinge. With the cast iron cover & a new gasket the weight of the cover alone won't offer a good seal. If I had one of the older stoves I'd either add a latch or use something (fire brick/stone?) to weight it down.

 
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fastcat
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Posts: 444
Joined: Thu. Nov. 12, 2009 11:50 pm
Location: CNY (McGraw)
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Nut/Stove Mix

Post by fastcat » Tue. Jul. 30, 2013 9:54 am

John the thermometer for the stove should go on the upper right front next to the top of the door you will get a good reading there.

 
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freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30293
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Tue. Jul. 30, 2013 11:58 am

JB, I never had a problem without a latch--the flat gasket put on properly works for me--BUT, a latch is always an option. Once again, whatever one feels comfortable with. I'm wondering if my flat 1/8" piece of steel/flap/door has a better seal then the cast????????????????? I'm leaning towards YES ;) PS--an antique iron works well on that flap if that's your décor, just gotta track one down:)

 
JohnB
Member
Posts: 528
Joined: Sat. Jul. 06, 2013 6:06 pm
Location: Northeastern Ct.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Mostly nut, some pea

Post by JohnB » Tue. Jul. 30, 2013 12:19 pm

If you just flop the door down maybe it does but once the cast door is locked down there would be no comparison. The cast door has a wide, thick gasket & like all stove gaskets it seals best when tightly compressed. If the original door assy. worked so well I doubt they would have completely changed the door material & hinge mechanism design along with adding the latch. With no pressure on the gasket even a slight warpage in the old style cover or mating surface would cause a leak.


 
JohnB
Member
Posts: 528
Joined: Sat. Jul. 06, 2013 6:06 pm
Location: Northeastern Ct.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
Coal Size/Type: Mostly nut, some pea

Post by JohnB » Tue. Jul. 30, 2013 12:20 pm

fastcat wrote:John the thermometer for the stove should go on the upper right front next to the top of the door you will get a good reading there.
Thanks! I'll give that a try.

 
cowentz
Member
Posts: 126
Joined: Fri. Dec. 21, 2007 8:22 am
Location: York county, PA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kast Console II Hearth

Post by cowentz » Fri. Aug. 02, 2013 12:52 pm

The stove is fully dis-assembled and ready for a light sand and paint. New parts have been ordered and are on their way (hopper boot, grate holder, all new gaskets, and gasket glue). Hopefully I get time this weekend to paint it.

 
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freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30293
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Fri. Aug. 02, 2013 2:32 pm

Soooooo, you're gainin on it. NICE :)

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