Hitzer 50-93 Info

Nice jb--time will tell but she looks like she'll do the job:) OK--the reason mine is easier to fit the washer is because I'm round at the stove body--this girl must be older then I been thinkin

I finally got the stove home this weekend and got some time to take some pictures. The grate frame is a little warped in the front but not too bad. The sides, middle bar, and back are in good shape. I will check price for a new one but will more then likely just use this one. The hopper is a little more warped then I thought. Should I buy a new hopper ring? The front and rear holes (for bolts) on the hopper are in bad shape. Do you think I should weld a new plate to the inside of the hopper to give the hopper ring a better attachment point on the front and rear? The sides are solid.

c, if you think the grate cradle is OK, that's good. A new one cost me $47.00 back 2008. My hopper was exactly the same ( the guy fired up to many HOT wood fires) I replaced the ring & just used the end bolts--she's done fine since 2008 ( back then the ring was $52.00) Make sure you check the connector on the grates ( you'll see it through the ash door area) that was $7.00 to replace. I also replaced both grates due to warpage--they were $40.00 each. I also got a new piece of glass $47.00. Also replaced ALL gaskets. After replacing those parts, I had basically a brand new stove. Glass is real iffy--I think it's next to impossible to keep it looking new no matter what cleaning methods you use with time they spider & discolor--just the nature of the beast--there's a lot of posts on glass maintenance. Keep in touch on your part prices, I'm curious as to the $$$ increase in the past 6 yrs. PS--does your top loading flap lie nice & flat (flat gasket is real impt on that. Lil bitch is kinda heavy--ya think?

My grates are straight. Not even the slightest sign of warpage. The grate connector is also in very good shape. Glass is intact but very dirty. I will clean it up and see what it looks like. I think all I need to buy is 2-3 cans of paint, a hopper ring, and the hopper door gasket. Hopper gasket is not in the best shape and from what I have read an air leak here is a bad thing. Any tricks to getting the hopper ring bolts out (I was thinking grinder with cutting wheel). Also how does the grate frame come out of the stove? I got it to drop to the bottom but still seems a little too wide to come through the ash door (I haven't messed with it too much).

If I remember right--take shaker handle off, disconnect grate connector ( cotter pin) get ring out first then pull grates from top--I used a wrench on the inside nut & a 1/2" breaker bar/ ratchet w/ pipe extension on ring--slow but it worked (spray good with PB Blaster & let set for a while) take grates out & the grate frame should come out easier from the top.

freetown fred wrote: My hopper was exactly the same ( the guy fired up to many HOT wood fires) I replaced the ring & just used the end bolts--she's done fine since 2008 ( back then the ring was $52.00)

The lower (removable) section of the hopper on the new 50-93s just uses one bolt in front to lock it in place. It slides in & out on rails welded into the upper section. The older style was hold on by bolts on all four sides?? When I burn wood early & late in the season the hopper ring will be out.

Wise decision JB Yes, on 4 sides

How did you make out with your coal John what did you end up with? Like Fred I burn the nut and in the last few years Blashic (spelling) has gotten smaller and smaller as far as their nut so I now add stove to the nut and find it works best for me. The pea when I tried it seemed to be a waste, I couldn't get good heat out of it when I needed it, couldn't get enough air to flow through it fast enough to really fire it, it just seem to want to smother itself once the ash started to build under it before shake time. As far as turning the stove down with nut or nut & stove it is no problem and I can run it as low as need be to the stove giving off almost no heat (spring & fall). If you did not get the pea then just pick up two or three bags and once you start the coal try it, it might work for you but I like the ease of the nut as Fred has said. Set it and forget it for 12 to 24 hours no having to adjust anything. And sorry I wasn't able to answer your question sooner, was away.

I've got a call & an email in to my supplier about changing my order to all nut. Hopefully that will be settled by the end of the day. (Update- 6 tons of Nut only coming Friday). I'll pick up a few bags of pea & stove from a local outlet & try them out at some point.

Here's a shot of the newer style hopper ring: The bracket slides onto the rail shown here:

I emailed Hitzer this morning and ask for a parts price list. Dean replied this afternoon with the full list for the 50-93. The hopper boot is $53, and the Grate holder is $51. I wish my hopper was removable, I would order a new one of those also ($53) and more or less have a new stove.

That was one thing I liked about the 30-95, you could lift the whole hopper right up & out of the stove. The other thing was the wider fill hole for the hopper. I was surprised at the much smaller opening in the top of the 50-93 the first time I saw it.

Good for HITZER--prices went up minimally over the past 6 yrs.

JB, how big is the hopper hole on the new 50-93's? Mine is 10" X 6 1/4--works fine for a coal HOD or coal shovel

It's the same & I'm sure it does the job but the opening on the 30-95 is wider even though the stove is smaller. I imagine the smaller opening allows for more airflow across the top when you are running the blower but you'll need a good eye when pouring from the bag.

This brings up a question I was wondering about. If you are using a stove top thermometer to monitor stove temp how accurate will it be on a stove like the 50-93? You've got a 1"(?) gap between the actual firebox top & the top surface plate plus when you run the blower most of the heat rising off the firebox top will be blown out the front. If you were reading 300*F on the thermometer with it sitting up on the top cover plate I wonder how hot the actual stove top would be??

I hate to admit this--NOT-- BUT, I have no thermometer anywhere on the stove--an MPD--no Baro-- no manometer--me bad. If the house is comfortable & the stove body isn't red, I know the stove is just the right temp. What I do have & would NEVER be without is 3 carbon monoxide alarms that I check/test every couple weeks--I figure I made it through 2 tours in the NAM, I'll be damned if carbon monoxide is going to take this old fool out