Hitzer 50-93 Info

 
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freetown fred
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Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Fri. Jul. 26, 2013 1:05 pm

John, you'll have to go thicker then 1/8" but I look fwd to pix--by the way--that hole on the side is the original from HITZER--took about 2 seasons to strip out--mine's not as cute, but it ain't goin anywhere LOL--yep, went that wood route for about 40 yrs myself--tough thing to unlearn, but that's pretty much what I was told I needed to do----so far, so good. Here's a pix of my wood beast still hooked up in the back of the house.

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JohnB
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Post by JohnB » Fri. Jul. 26, 2013 1:13 pm

I'm not surprised that it stripped as there isn't much meat there for threads without adding a nut. The hole is on the bottom flat now. Looks like my handle slips on further then yours but I was going to double up the material anyways. I'll make something up tomorrow & post a photo if looks like it's going to work.

 
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fastcat
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Post by fastcat » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 12:07 am

JohnB that is how the washer is suppose to fit the nub, you are going to have to file the hole square so it just fits the square nub, and yes the washer rotates and yes the handle holds the washer tight against the stove and I bet you will never wear the washer out as it rubs the stove. :D Fred our handles slide on farther than yours, also use 2 bolts one on adjoining sides of the square, it will keep the handle from wobbling as you shake.
Hey John I read another of your posts and if I were you I would stay away from pea coal if anything add some stove size to your nut, these stoves like larger size coal and you can still turn the thing down to where it is giving almost no heat spring and fall.

 
JohnB
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Post by JohnB » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 8:38 am

fastcat wrote:=Hey John I read another of your posts and if I were you I would stay away from pea coal if anything add some stove size to your nut, these stoves like larger size coal and you can still turn the thing down to where it is giving almost no heat spring and fall.
I've placed a coal order with some pea but mostly nut. Not too late to change it though & they do carry the Blaschak stove size also. Tell me why the Pea size is a bad idea with this stove??

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 8:45 am

Never used any pea, nor anything but BLASCHAK NUT---I suspect pea would fall through the grates--the 50-93 was designed for nut & I've never had a problem with it

 
JohnB
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Post by JohnB » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 9:05 am

The owner's manual does say you can use pea & nut but if the pea is an issue I'll change the order tomorrow. The least I can buy of any size from my supplier is one pallet (60 40lb bags), so I'll wait to try the stove size until I can pick up a bag or two elsewhere.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 9:40 am

JB, you're going to do all bagged? No way you could do bulk? People seem to have moisture problems with the bagged BLASCHAK-- good news is you're buying early & really should not have that problem--also here's a sizing chart to check out

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JohnB
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Post by JohnB » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 10:30 am

Yes, all bagged. The only bulk available to me would come from R.I. & cost me $330 a ton delivered. That dealer does have Blaschak sometimes but he also deals with 2 other suppliers so no way of knowing what you are getting. I'm in northeastern CT. & my supplier is coming down from central Mass. Their main business is selling pellets but they carry the Blaschak coal line (all 4 sizes bagged). They are further away then the bulk guy but I'm "only" paying $299 @ ton delivered & the bags will be easier to deal with. They also come with a fork lift & place the pallets where I want them for that price. That's the best deal you'll find in this area for coal & those prices probably go up after the summer deals. No matter how you figure the heat comparison wood is still cheaper to burn in this area. I'm switching to burning mostly coal mainly for the convenience factor.

As far as being wet I thought that wasn't an issue with coal?? I have several friends that have hand fired stoves (Harmons) & they only burn bagged Blaschak. None of them have complained of problems except for the times that they've tried other brands.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 11:17 am

I've bought maybe 30 bagged BLASCHAK in my use history & have had no WET problems either, but a couple people on here have complained vehemently-- sounds like a good deal with your supplier:)

 
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Post by franco b » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 11:55 am

The issue with wet coal is not that it will not burn but that it costs you heat to evaporate that water. Also that water will tend to condense in the chimney and combined with flue gas to create more than usual acid corrosion which can be a big problem with a stainless steel chimney and even with a tile lined chimney though much less so.

Blaschak coal is well washed so there is no dust problem but it seems it is wet when bagged. I always open a weeks bags ahead to let it dry before burning. This is in my garage which is always above freezing temperature and protected from the weather. Storing unopened out side under shelter would be more of a problem, more-so if the pallets are left wrapped. I have found that bags left over from the year before have been dry, evidently the little pin holes created by the coal have been enough to dry it out over time. I avoid wet coal with a metal chimney.

Last year I burned Reading bagged by the local dealer and dust was a real annoyance when pouring the coal into a scuttle. The coal was dry but each piece had a fine coating of coal dust as if it had been washed in water full of dust which dried on the coal.

 
JohnB
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Post by JohnB » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 12:56 pm

I'll check out a couple bags when it gets here this Friday. If I find that the coal is pretty wet I'll add a few drain holes to each bag & let the August heat dry it out some before burning season. It will be stored outside under a tarp but my plan is to bring in a weeks worth at a time & store those bags on the large hearthstone near the stove.

 
JohnB
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Post by JohnB » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 2:17 pm

Here's a couple photos of the gasket I made up. Square 3/4" cut out in the middle gives a snug fit over the nub. This fiberglass insulation is pretty durable but if it eventually wears out I'll spend another 3 minutes making a new one.
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 2:22 pm

I would assume it's necessary so combustion air can't leak into the stove at that location??

 
JohnB
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Post by JohnB » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 3:23 pm

According to Fred:
freetown fred wrote:Yes, washer is an add on--they seem to get a real hot spot right where the nub comes through the stove---washer is(approx.)
A hot spot in the coal bed is one thing but since I'll be burning wood early & late in the season I didn't want an unregulated source of air in that area.

 
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Post by coalnewbie » Sun. Jul. 28, 2013 3:32 pm

Square 3/4" cut out in the middle gives a snug fit over the nub.
You nailed it johnb, I like easy.


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