Hitzer 50-93 Info
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I just bought I used Hitzer 50-93 for $400. I am picking it up this weekend. It seems to be in good shape, I will know better once I take it apart to bring it home. For right now I have 2 questions. How much warpage is normal at the bottom of the hopper? This one has some warpage but I don't think it is too bad. Also the shaker handle is removable. Is this normal? I am use to the Harman which has the attached handle. The tube on the shaker handle that goes over the shaft coming out of the stove seems a little big allowing extra play. I may shim it to make it tighter. The paint is decent but I plan to put a fresh coat on it before moving it into the house.
- freetown fred
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- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
cw, you need to post some pix when you get er home---my handle is drilled & tapped to keep it tight---temp. long bolt will be replaced w/ shorter, prettier bolt---maybe--LOL----does the hopper have a bottom boot?????? as shown in pix???? make sure grate frame is in good shape--again---post some pix---nice deal for $400.00 PS---note washer on shaker nub up against the stove
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- Joined: Sat. May. 24, 2008 4:26 pm
- Location: Chester, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL AnthraKing 180K, Pocono110K,KStokr 90K, DVC
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Invader 2
- Baseburners & Antiques: Wings Best, Glenwood #8(x2) Herald 116x
- Coal Size/Type: Rice,
- Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22
FF
Getting ready to set up my Hitzer for the first time, those photos were helpful. If only I could weld worth a damn. So tell him about the drill hole trick. We want our Hitzers running like butta. I picked up my used one for $500 just think of the payback on that investment - WOW. There are quite a number of useful, efficient, used coal stoves out there for not much money.
Getting ready to set up my Hitzer for the first time, those photos were helpful. If only I could weld worth a damn. So tell him about the drill hole trick. We want our Hitzers running like butta. I picked up my used one for $500 just think of the payback on that investment - WOW. There are quite a number of useful, efficient, used coal stoves out there for not much money.
- freetown fred
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
No need to weld---I used some JB WELD on the washer yesterday while stove is cold---rough up the area a bit with file edge.---no reason that shouldn't work after setting up for a month or more:) Don't want to give up all the lil secrets all at once--
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- Joined: Fri. Dec. 21, 2007 8:22 am
- Location: York county, PA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Alaska Kast Console II Hearth
Yes it does have the boot on the bottom of the hopper. The shaker handle looks the same as yours minus the bolt. Adding a bolt may be a better option then shimming the inside of the tube. I am not positive but I don't think it has the washer. Is this something you added. What purpose does it serve. I will post pics after I get it home. The grates are straight and the sides and rear frame are not warped, the front may be warped a little. Just inside the top of the ash door in the front there is a metal piece that I think is warped down some in the middle.
- freetown fred
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Yes, washer is an add on--they seem to get a real hot spot right where the nub comes through the stove---washer is(approx.) 2" over-all 11/16 or 13/16 ID ?? just enough to fit over nub--might have to file a little-- on the handle--I spot welded a nut above the drilled hole & it works real well keeping it tight. That piece inside the ash area, should be part of the grate frame--if it's real warped--you might as well replace the whole thing--save headaches down the road
- freetown fred
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- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Also, on that T in the back---place it so you can cap the bottom--easy to clean if you need to during the season--yeah, yeah---that T needs a lil paint I'm still doing spring clean up--LOL---Inside is the most impt. there & that's all done---there, ya made me feel bad--some course steel woolin & another coat
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Last edited by freetown fred on Wed. Jul. 24, 2013 10:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- Member
- Posts: 8601
- Joined: Sat. May. 24, 2008 4:26 pm
- Location: Chester, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL AnthraKing 180K, Pocono110K,KStokr 90K, DVC
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Invader 2
- Baseburners & Antiques: Wings Best, Glenwood #8(x2) Herald 116x
- Coal Size/Type: Rice,
- Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22
Now Fred, the NSA won't get the info I promise==== the 3/16" drill trick. Come'on you ol' fart spill all the beans.
- freetown fred
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- Posts: 30293
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Come on Simon, time for you younger guys to jump in here--
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- Location: Northeastern Ct.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Mostly nut, some pea
Hitzer supplies the shaker handle drilled & tapped with a short screw installed on the new stoves. The hole the handle nub passes through is about the same size as your washer ID so what exactly is the washer supposed to accomplish? Considering that the 50-93 has front & rear air control why is the area around the shaker nub left wide open to draw unregulated air in?
- freetown fred
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- Posts: 30293
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
So is your stove a newer one or you're just going to order the handle? John, re-read my post about the washer--the washer goes right flush against the stove body & helps with any unwanted air--things are what they are & people burning the 50-93 have learned some tricks of the trade through burning experience & love to share them. Some things have no rhyme nor reason, they just work towards more efficiency in our coal burning experience. KISS PS--there's more of these lil tricks as you go along if interested. I would replace ALL the gaskets while you've got her broke down, I know I'm going to do mine before lighting up next season--might I suggest Williams stove black compared to paint.
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Mostly nut, some pea
Fred I read your post about the "hot spot". Are you saying the stove wall turns red hot in that area & the washer helps with this some how? How about making a "gasket" from furnace insulation material & installing it over the shaft on the inside to block the air/heat flow?freetown fred wrote: John, re-read my post about the washer--things are what they are & people burning the 50-93 have learned some tricks of the trade through burning experience & love to share them. Some things have no rhyme nor reason, they just work towards more efficiency in our coal burning experience.
My stove with the drilled & tapped handle is brand new.
- freetown fred
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- Posts: 30293
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
NO, that immediate area in the coal bed tends to take off--- If you think the gasket will work better then the tried & true washer does, by all means have at it--if it works real well, I could be convinced to try it--I just kinda have a problem of listening to people having experience with our particular stove- WHOOPS getting you posters confused--damn getting older
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- Posts: 528
- Joined: Sat. Jul. 06, 2013 6:06 pm
- Location: Northeastern Ct.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Mostly nut, some pea
Since my Hitzer is brand new & not even installed yet I can only throw out ideas & questions. Having heated with woodstoves for many years I was surprised to see such a large unregulated air opening so I'm not surprised that it creates a hot spot in the fire bed. Since that's the issue I'd put the insulation "washer" on the outside. One benefit of using a piece of insulation sheet (1/8" thick) instead of the metal washer is that you could trim the ID to fit snuggly over the square nub blocking off all air flow through the hole. Being a tight fit over the nub it would move with the nub & be held snuggly against the stove wall by the shaker handle mount. I'll make one up & post a photo.