Silly Question Regarding the Alaska Kodiak Hand Fired Stove

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Sat. Mar. 30, 2013 3:28 pm

Does this stove have a bimetallic thermostat based primary air intake, or is the air intake adjustment totally manual?

Stoker6268 · Post by **Stoker6268** » Sat. Mar. 30, 2013 3:47 pm

Its manual. There is an option for a Bi-Metal Thermostat,

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Sat. Mar. 30, 2013 4:57 pm

Thank you kindly!

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Sat. Mar. 30, 2013 10:28 pm

It's manual in the front on the ash pandoor but there is a bi-metallic "flap" adjustment on the rear.

I can say experience says to leave it closed and use the manual front air control. Possibly it's just the nature of this chimney system that makes this my opinion....

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Sun. Mar. 31, 2013 7:14 am

Poconoeagle wrote:It's manual in the front on the ash pandoor but there is a bi-metallic "flap" adjustment on the rear.

I can say experience says to leave it closed and use the manual front air control. Possibly it's just the nature of this chimney system that makes this my opinion....

Most people who have stoves with bi-metallic air intake control are hooked on the bi-metallic feature. You are the first I've heard telling the opposite story.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sun. Mar. 31, 2013 7:46 am

The proof is in the pudding Larry--trial & error--my bi-metallic works great, apparently PE's does not-- ya just gotta figure out the combination in your particular set-up:)

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Sun. Mar. 31, 2013 8:05 am

Yes I believe that Fred. This is a massive old stone fireplace/chimney that has strong drafting. It's only 18' but I guess the topography aids it . I have better control with the manual as I need to burn on the hot side to combat the heat loss..

lsayre · Post by **lsayre** » Sun. Mar. 31, 2013 8:08 am

freetown fred wrote:The proof is in the pudding Larry--trial & error--my bi-metallic works great, apparently PE's does not-- ya just gotta figure out the combination in your particular set-up:)

Does figuring it out mean lengthening or shortening the chain that runs between the bi-metal thermostat and the air inlet flapper until it works well for most situations?

Poconoeagle · Post by **Poconoeagle** » Sun. Mar. 31, 2013 8:18 am

That is exactly correct!!

Early season, mid season, and late season. Sometimes

63roundbadge · Post by **63roundbadge** » Mon. Apr. 01, 2013 9:49 pm

I have a Kodiak without the bi-metallic thermostat. I leave the front manual open all the way and adjust the output via the MPD. It's great-I can close it totally to fill and poke the fire. Closing the manual then sends air over the fire while the front door is open instead of through the fire, smell and gasses go up the flue.

No extra cost for the manual and nothing to go wrong.

I had an EFEL before this w/a capillary tube thermostat that worked well. I was always afraid it would fail and throttle wide open when I wasn't around. Never happened though, it went to it's grave still working.