Reccomendatrions for a Used Small Hand Fired Stove

ddahlgren wrote: My big goal is an overnight burn with a peak of 40k BTU / hr and a low around 5k.

That's not going to happen easily. Coal is very slow responding, so most set the stove for a steady output for 24 hours and vary that as the season progresses from cold to colder and vice versa.

You are looking at features and might find a stove with all that you might want and it turns out to be a dog because the features are badly implemented.

A tall round stove means an antique and a good one is probably more money than you want to spend.

A good stove has to start with a strong effective grate shaker system without which there will be nothing but frustration trying to maintain a fire. The shaker system goes a long way in providing satisfaction to users of Harman, Hitzer, DS Machine, and other higher ranked stoves.

A round lined combustion chamber is best but the square and somewhat rectangular chambers can do well also.

Stay away from pot belly or cannon stoves as they are not airtight and are very hard to control. Use the search function in this forum to find threads on prospective stoves you might be interested in.

Stoves with thermostat will compensate for changes in draft and with a hopper is well worth having.

franco b wrote:

ddahlgren wrote: My big goal is an overnight burn with a peak of 40k BTU / hr and a low around 5k.

That's not going to happen easily. Coal is very slow responding, so most set the stove for a steady output for 24 hours and vary that as the season progresses from cold to colder and vice versa.

You are looking at features and might find a stove with all that you might want and it turns out to be a dog because the features are badly implemented.

A tall round stove means an antique and a good one is probably more money than you want to spend.

A good stove has to start with a strong effective grate shaker system without which there will be nothing but frustration trying to maintain a fire. The shaker system goes a long way in providing satisfaction to users of Harman, Hitzer, DS Machine, and other higher ranked stoves.

A round lined combustion chamber is best but the square and somewhat rectangular chambers can do well also.

Stay away from pot belly or cannon stoves as they are not airtight and are very hard to control. Use the search function in this forum to find threads on prospective stoves you might be interested in.

Stoves with thermostat will compensate for changes in draft and with a hopper is well worth having.

I was thinking about changing output over weeks not hours. Basically set for the 10 day forcast as opposed to morning noon and night. I think that would make more sense.

franco b wrote:

ddahlgren wrote: My big goal is an overnight burn with a peak of 40k BTU / hr and a low around 5k.

That's not going to happen easily. Coal is very slow responding, so most set the stove for a steady output for 24 hours and vary that as the season progresses from cold to colder and vice versa.

You are looking at features and might find a stove with all that you might want and it turns out to be a dog because the features are badly implemented.

A tall round stove means an antique and a good one is probably more money than you want to spend.

A good stove has to start with a strong effective grate shaker system without which there will be nothing but frustration trying to maintain a fire. The shaker system goes a long way in providing satisfaction to users of Harman, Hitzer, DS Machine, and other higher ranked stoves.

A round lined combustion chamber is best but the square and somewhat rectangular chambers can do well also.

Stay away from pot belly or cannon stoves as they are not airtight and are very hard to control. Use the search function in this forum to find threads on prospective stoves you might be interested in.

Stoves with thermostat will compensate for changes in draft and with a hopper is well worth having.

I was thinking about changing output over weeks not hours. Basically set for the 10 day forcast as opposed to morning noon and night. I think that would make more sense.

Sorry about the double post not sure how that happened...
What are everyones thoughts about this stove Peninsular Oak no 55 They are asking 750 for it and claims it is for wood and coal and looks to have the top flue I want.

It's missing the urn and dome that the urn goes on. The trim looks to have been painted with silver paint. We don't know the type of grate or its condition and whether the fire box is lined or not. Its worth more like 200 in my opinion.

franco b wrote:It's missing the urn and dome that the urn goes on. The trim looks to have been painted with silver paint. We don't know the type of grate or its condition and whether the fire box is lined or not. Its worth more like 200 in my opinion.

At the right price does it have some potential?

Another potenial stove that should be able to get for around 400 to 500 and looks like no one has 'worked' on it.. Says the grates are good and no cracks. Cast iron unlined firebox. About an hour away and getting dimensions an see if any numbers on it.

The season is almost over so have patience. The best buys are in the hot weather.

Yes that stove will output heat, but at anything above a moderate setting the flue temperature will be high. The better oak style stoves have provision for an extended flue gas path which can be used when high outputs are desired and still maintain reasonable stack temperatures. You might read the thread by Steve Zee on restoring his Glenwood 116 which will show you good grates and the construction of one of the better stoves. The triangular or prismatic style of grate is the most effective. You also have to get a stove with a big enough fire pot for the output you want. I would think 16 inch minimum. An unlined fire pot will work OK with a brisk fire but burn too unevenly at lower settings. The lining will also extend the life of the pot.

The fit of the ash pan door is most critical so always check with a dollar bill closed in the door at various points to see if the bill is held tight. Not all but most antique stoves should be taken apart to renew seams and bolts and to really see any areas that need work. I see stoves that could be restored at prices of 150 to 250. Missing trim really hurts the value as an antique. The Ma. area of craigslist has several. Buying something cheap will at least give you some experience in deciding what you like without a large expense.

ddahlgren wrote:Another potenial stove that should be able to get for around 400 to 500 and looks like no one has 'worked' on it.. Says the grates are good and no cracks. Cast iron unlined firebox. About an hour away and getting dimensions an see if any numbers on it.

Comfort stove pic 1.jpg

Again top trim missing. That top exit might be a double heater with the stove having a double skin to direct hot air to a room above. Look for another flue exit on the back.

franco b wrote:

ddahlgren wrote:Another potenial stove that should be able to get for around 400 to 500 and looks like no one has 'worked' on it.. Says the grates are good and no cracks. Cast iron unlined firebox. About an hour away and getting dimensions an see if any numbers on it.

Comfort stove pic 1.jpg

Again top trim missing. That top exit might be a double heater with the stove having a double skin to direct hot air to a room above. Look for another flue exit on the back.

I did call the guy selling it and he said it was a top flue outlet that was oval and a 6 inch pipe fit over it. I am starting to think the top trim is missing on a lot of used stoves like this one. Stove measures 41 tall and 24 in diameter overall. The trim that was there looks good in the picture at least. With no baffles as you stated it must have crazy hi flue temps though.

Yes, after 100 years a lot can go wrong or missing from a stove. Many prices are just off the wall for junk. People see the prices of some of the professional restorers and think their rust bucket is worth the same.

If you are set on an antique then it will take time to find one in good condition and from one of the better makers.

You could consider a Chubby or even a Warm Morning as an interim stove until you find what you want.

The antique stoves most desired by members of this forum fall into the base burner or base heater or at least with an indirect back pipe. These are the most efficient.

If I had the money I would be happy to buy a Hitzer 254 as it is a perfect fit for me as far as size heat capacity etc.I just ran across a Harman of currently unknown model or age but did send them an e-mail. So not stuck on an old stove but one that I can trade elbow grease for money.

Found this for close to nothing a hundred bucks couting gas to go get it but it is missing the lid under the top trim and has either broken grates or a hole in the fire box. It was desribed over the phone as a 2 inch hole in the bottom. My problem is where to get parts and assume you need to know what the stove is in order to see if something is available. So my question does anyone know who might have made it. there is nothing the current owner can see cast in. Here is a pic of it and the owner says there is nothing cast in the doors or the oval plaque above the upper door. It is approxamately 24 inches in diameter and 55 inches tall.

It appears to be the same make as the previous stove you posted a picture of.

Top lid should not be too hard to find.

The grate hole might refer to the center removable section that is used to dump the fire and also act as handle to shake. There are a lot available that might fit.

If you think you might enjoy working on it you should buy it. Otherwise stay away.

franco b wrote:It appears to be the same make as the previous stove you posted a picture of.

Top lid should not be too hard to find.

The grate hole might refer to the center removable section that is used to dump the fire and also act as handle to shake. There are a lot available that might fit.

If you think you might enjoy working on it you should buy it. Otherwise stay away.

Why did I not notice that they were close to identical..LOL.. They are actually withing 50 miles of each other so possibly sold by the same dealer that carried that brand. I wonder if the missing top trim on many is from either cooking on them or damaged if they removed it to fill from the top. If it is not bolted on it might be easy to come off and be damaged as well. Does the top trim actually do anything or is it just a decoration?