Manometer Install (Pic)

In an attempt to tune my stove a little better, per some recommendations, I've installed my new Dwyers Mach II manometer, and hooked the tube to the "low' side of the gauge, and blocked off the high side. At the pipe end, I've installed a nipple not only "before" the MPD, but also after. Currently it's attached after, but will experiment with the one B4 also. Oil is filled and "zeroed". I'm assuming when I fire the stove on Sunday, it'll give me "some kind" of reading, (not knowing what to expect.) My goal is to see where the readings go when I apply the MPD to different settings, and also to see what kind of consistency my draft is to determine if a baro damper may assist in this concern, should the readings continue to vary. Am I out in left field with this set-up, or line of thought, or am I on the right track? Any feedback is welcome. Thanx. P.S. My sensing line is about 5'-6' long. Will this be a factor?

**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
.

Looks good!

joeq wrote:and blocked off the high side.

Oh no, don't block off the high side or plug it in any way. It needs to compare the low side (pipe pressure) to the high side (room pressure) if you block the high side off in any way it won't work. Just leave the high side open so it can feel the room pressure.. The line length should be ok... Just pull the tube off the high side so its open to read the room's pressure..

joeq wrote:My goal is to see where the readings go when I apply the MPD to different settings, and also to see what kind of consistency my draft is to determine if a baro damper may assist in this concern, should the readings continue to vary.

I just noticed also that you are taking the reading after the MPD .. The reading needs to be taken between the stove and the MPD.. You need to read the pressure in the firebox which will be the same in the flue, provided the reading is before the MPD.. Otherwise, you could close the MPD to the point that the stove pressure goes positive and carbon monoxide is leaking out of the stove, but you would still be reading a good draft from the mano after the MPD..

The way you have it set now you won't see a different reading when you adjust the MPD..

I remember you saying that about the line "between" the stove and the MPD, and it made sense, Lightning. I will hook it up like that . And the high side tube is open at the end behind the stove, Thinking maybe it'll be more protected from dust dropping into the verticle port.(?)

I tried resting a cap to keep the dust out, but the cats kept batting it off ... It's right next to the stove for all the puffbacks & epic explosions, so it gets PLENTY of dust with no ill effects so far. Don't think it's that critical to keep it covered.

Lightning wrote:I just noticed also that you are taking the reading after the MPD .. The reading needs to be taken between the stove and the MPD.. You need to read the pressure in the firebox which will be the same in the flue, provided the reading is before the MPD.. Otherwise, you could close the MPD to the point that the stove pressure goes positive and carbon monoxide is leaking out of the stove, but you would still be reading a good draft from the mano after the MPD..

The way you have it set now you won't see a different reading when you adjust the MPD..

I should have caught that! This is correct. it will look good when you reposition it.

joeq wrote:I remember you saying that about the line "between" the stove and the MPD, and it made sense, Lightning. I will hook it up like that . And the high side tube is open at the end behind the stove, Thinking maybe it'll be more protected from dust dropping into the versicle port.(?)

Sounds good partner .... Keep us posted with your findings..

I also have a short piece of tubing on the high side looped so dust doesn't get into it.

("Versticle" port?....How did I do that? Of course I meant "vertical" port). Anyway, today I need to get another 10-20 bags of pea to get me through the rest of the month. after that, I think it'll end my winter of 2012-13 of coal burning. So far,I'm not that impressed this winter with the savings (if there was any) burning coal. I've spent maybe $600 on coal, and am not so sure if I've saved that much in oil. but I'll need to get some old receipts, and try to figure it out again.
But tomorrow, the cold frt returns, and I'll get to play some, with the manometer. I did reposition my line to the frt of the MPD. I'll post again on it in 24 hrs. Enjoy your week-end people.

All right people, here it is late Sunday, and the stove is up and running again. 19* outside, and 74 in the living area.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**

The girls will be thrilled when they return. Didn't like the house the past few days at 67* I'll have to admit tho, it wasn't an easy re-lite. Took many hours B4 I could get the bed hot enuff to fill the hopper. I even had to "supercharge" it at one point to help it get lit. I've learned this little trick of setting a window fan in frt of the open ash pan door, to help move it along.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
(I'll have to "re-visit" the topics," How to lite a coal fire")
As for the manometer, I had it set to "0" without a fire, and at one point, it read as high as .1, but as things have calmed down, this is where she's been hanging at.
**Broken Image Link(s) Removed**
well, I just checked again, and it's about .07. I noticed as the wind was blowing outside, it did have an effect somewhat. Now I need to play with the MPD, to see what kind of influence it has on it. And yes Lightning, the manometer line is hooked between the stove and MPD. Anyone see anything that looks wrong or odd, please fill me in if you would. All comments appreciated. Thanx. (I just noticed my manometer level is a tad off. Have to tweek it)

Looks good Partner!

joeq wrote:Took many hours B4 I could get the bed hot enuff to fill the hopper. I even had to "supercharge" it at one point to help it get lit. I've learned this little trick of setting a window fan in frt of the open ash pan door, to help move it along.

I use Cowboy charcoal.. Its the lite woody stuff. Works great! I just put in a layer about 4 inches deep of the charcoal. Hose with charcoal fluid, wait 5 minutes and lite it. I'll let the charcoal get burning good, then layer on coal about 2 inches at a time letting it get burning good between layers. .... Doesn't take long a all!! (I would be afraid a fan would blow ash dust around..)

Warning: Never ever put a combustible fluid on a dieing or weak coal fire. The vapors can explode ... I've read about Amish using kerosene to revive a coal fire. Usually ends in tragedy. Safety first

joeq wrote:Now I need to play with the MPD, to see what kind of influence it has on it.

Try closing the MPD to the point you get to a .03 - .04 on the mano.. That way you are less likely to loose heat up the chimney due to any door/hopper gaskets that aren't sealing 100%.. You may need to open the primary air slightly to compensate for the less negative pressure in the stove

Lightning wrote:Looks good Partner!

joeq wrote:Now I need to play with the MPD, to see what kind of influence it has on it.

Try closing the MPD to the point you get to a .03 - .04 on the mano.. That way you are less likely to loose heat up the chimney due to any door/hopper gaskets that aren't sealing 100%.. You may need to open the primary air slightly to compensate for the less negative pressure in the stove

Thanx boss. Presently, (because it's a new fire), she's breathing really good. Heat exchanger is about 500*, and the coals are cookin. draft is about .07-.08, and my MPD is fully open. I don't need anymore heat out of this thing at this time, so I'm afraid if I choke the damper down, the stove temp will climb higher. The Surdiac has a thermostat on it, and it's already at a low setting, but I'm gunna close it down a tad, and see if I can cool the temps down to about 400*. It's been running all day, and I don't think I've poked or scraped the thing once. But that will change once the ashes start accumulating. any-who, this manometer is pretty cool for only $30 bucks or so, and I'm hoping the info received will be beneficial. Appreciate all the tips.

joeq wrote:Thanx boss.

Just tryin to help my friend

joeq wrote:draft is about .07-.08, and my MPD is fully open. I don't need anymore heat out of this thing at this time, so I'm afraid if I choke the damper down, the stove temp will climb higher.

Actually if you close the MPD down so you have a .03 -.04 the stove should cool down.. It may rise a little momentarily, but then it will fall as the coal bed cools.. I can see you scratching your head but, what should happen is the less negative pressure in the stove (by closing the MPD) will cause combustion air coming in to slow down and the burn will calm down. Try it

joeq wrote:this manometer is pretty cool for only $30 bucks or so, and I'm hoping the info received will be beneficial.

This is why a mano is so advantageous.. So you can control the burn better, by knowing whats going on in there

OK Mr. Lightning, I'm closing it down now. I already took it from fully open to about 45* shut about a 1/2 hr ago. seems the draft may have gone up a smiggen (.08-.09), but it could be wind related. I'll close it a little more and see what happens. wife wants to watch Lincoln tonite, so I guess a movie's in order. I don't know what the hipe is, we already (like the Titanic) know how it's gunna end. I'll post once more B4 bed. Later.