Why Cement Your Black Stove Pipe

 
Stngllhm
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Post by Stngllhm » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 9:03 am

So I've seen some of you on here seal up the joints on your black pipe. I was told years ago that you didn't need to do that. Just screw it at least 3 places 4 if you could. I was told this by wood burners. And it's been working well without this year. Just trying to figure out if this is something I should look at doing.


 
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oros35
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Post by oros35 » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 9:19 am

For me it was about maximizing draft. I did all but 2 seams so I could easily take them apart to clean. All seams are also screwed together.

Any leak in the stove pipe acts to reduce the draft. To get the best most consistant burn and the ability to run it really low (think so low it will idle for 2 days and then fire right back up) the pipes need to be really tight, maximizing draft by reducing leaks.

 
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carlherrnstein
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Post by carlherrnstein » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 9:34 am

I only cemented around the pipe at the stove cause there was a large 3/16" gap around the pipe.

 
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I'm On Fire
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Post by I'm On Fire » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 10:14 am

I only cemented where it goes into the stove outlet. There was a small gap and I didn't want any CO leaking out into the house. I then used high temp silcone on some of the other seams for no real reason.

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 10:19 am

I bought a tube of fire stop for the pipe where it enters the chimney and flue. good stuff and easy clean up.

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 10:19 am

i did it for looks.....just like they say on all those food network shows.....its all about "presentation" !!! :D

seriously, I did it just to make sure I was controlling any air leaks that may cheat my control of the draft.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 2:11 pm

I screwed the pipes together then used foil tape around the seams. Mainly for the same reasons listed above. Anal retention of draft lol :) and the tape comes off easy to get into the pipes when needed.


 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 8:33 pm

My stove only has 1 foot of pipe before the wall thimble, and I didn't even use screws, never mind glue or tape. but then again, the stove weighs almost 400LBs, and the pipe isn't going anywhere. And the 15' of vertical SS double wall outside? Haven't put any screws in them either. (Twist-lock) Did buy some clamps for them last year. Maybe I'll do it this year. Between the weight and the brackets, They're pretty secure. They've survived a few storms too. I'll let you know if they ever fall to the ground. :)

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 8:42 pm

I'm On Fire wrote:I only cemented where it goes into the stove outlet. There was a small gap and I didn't want any CO leaking out into the house. I then used high temp silcone on some of the other seams for no real reason.
What's a good high temperature silicone adhesive that you can recommend? What temperatures is it intended to tolerate?

 
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coalkirk
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Post by coalkirk » Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 9:19 pm

Lightning wrote:I screwed the pipes together then used foil tape around the seams. Mainly for the same reasons listed above. Anal retention of draft lol :) and the tape comes off easy to get into the pipes when needed.
Me too.
taped joints.jpg
.JPG | 104.2KB | taped joints.jpg
The tape holds up well all season.

 
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oros35
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Post by oros35 » Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 8:49 am

I first used foil tape, saw how much better the draft was!

Then next clean out, I cemented them together, for astetic purposes! The stove is a looker, and the tape was dragging it down!

 
Stngllhm
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Post by Stngllhm » Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 11:49 am

Thanks everyone I believe I'm gonna get some tape today and follow suit.

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 12:42 pm

No cement and no screws on mine. I want to be able to easily take it apart in spring.

This thing has handled SEVERAL massive explosions without fail, as I figured it would. Safe as can be.

That white crap is from when I used to clean the pipe with baking soda and water. This pic is a few years old. I found it better to just brush the ash out and keep it dry. The baking soda seemed to do as much damage as leaving the flyash in the pipe all summer. :roll:

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 1:31 pm

Wow Smitty, I didn't know you could buy 8" flex pipe for stoves. Looks like a handy component when necessary.

 
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dlj
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Post by dlj » Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 3:06 pm

I think putting in a sealant on your pipe joints depends upon your individual situation. I have no seal on my stove pipe joints and have no problems at all. I also have very good draft. If I had less draft, I may look into cementing the joints.

dj


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