Why Cement Your Black Stove Pipe

Modern and vintage hand fired coal stove are similar to a wood stove and in some cases can burn either. They need to be regulated and fed by hand usually every 12 to 24 hours depending on your usage. They require no power to operate making them ideal for rural settings with long power outages.
Stngllhm
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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 9:03 am

So I've seen some of you on here seal up the joints on your black pipe. I was told years ago that you didn't need to do that. Just screw it at least 3 places 4 if you could. I was told this by wood burners. And it's been working well without this year. Just trying to figure out if this is something I should look at doing.

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oros35
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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 9:19 am

For me it was about maximizing draft. I did all but 2 seams so I could easily take them apart to clean. All seams are also screwed together.

Any leak in the stove pipe acts to reduce the draft. To get the best most consistant burn and the ability to run it really low (think so low it will idle for 2 days and then fire right back up) the pipes need to be really tight, maximizing draft by reducing leaks.

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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 9:34 am

I only cemented around the pipe at the stove cause there was a large 3/16" gap around the pipe.
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I'm On Fire
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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 10:14 am

I only cemented where it goes into the stove outlet. There was a small gap and I didn't want any CO leaking out into the house. I then used high temp silcone on some of the other seams for no real reason.

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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 10:19 am

I bought a tube of fire stop for the pipe where it enters the chimney and flue. good stuff and easy clean up.
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titleist1
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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 10:19 am

i did it for looks.....just like they say on all those food network shows.....its all about "presentation" !!! :D

seriously, I did it just to make sure I was controlling any air leaks that may cheat my control of the draft.
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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 2:11 pm

I screwed the pipes together then used foil tape around the seams. Mainly for the same reasons listed above. Anal retention of draft lol :) and the tape comes off easy to get into the pipes when needed.

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joeq
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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 8:33 pm

My stove only has 1 foot of pipe before the wall thimble, and I didn't even use screws, never mind glue or tape. but then again, the stove weighs almost 400LBs, and the pipe isn't going anywhere. And the 15' of vertical SS double wall outside? Haven't put any screws in them either. (Twist-lock) Did buy some clamps for them last year. Maybe I'll do it this year. Between the weight and the brackets, They're pretty secure. They've survived a few storms too. I'll let you know if they ever fall to the ground. :)
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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 8:42 pm

I'm On Fire wrote:I only cemented where it goes into the stove outlet. There was a small gap and I didn't want any CO leaking out into the house. I then used high temp silcone on some of the other seams for no real reason.
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Post Thu. Feb. 07, 2013 9:19 pm

Lightning wrote:I screwed the pipes together then used foil tape around the seams. Mainly for the same reasons listed above. Anal retention of draft lol :) and the tape comes off easy to get into the pipes when needed.
Me too.
taped joints.jpg
The tape holds up well all season.
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Post Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 8:49 am

I first used foil tape, saw how much better the draft was!

Then next clean out, I cemented them together, for astetic purposes! The stove is a looker, and the tape was dragging it down!

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Post Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 11:49 am

Thanks everyone I believe I'm gonna get some tape today and follow suit.

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Post Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 12:42 pm

No cement and no screws on mine. I want to be able to easily take it apart in spring.

This thing has handled SEVERAL massive explosions without fail, as I figured it would. Safe as can be.

That white crap is from when I used to clean the pipe with baking soda and water. This pic is a few years old. I found it better to just brush the ash out and keep it dry. The baking soda seemed to do as much damage as leaving the flyash in the pipe all summer. :roll:
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Post Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 1:31 pm

Wow Smitty, I didn't know you could buy 8" flex pipe for stoves. Looks like a handy component when necessary.
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Post Fri. Feb. 08, 2013 3:06 pm

I think putting in a sealant on your pipe joints depends upon your individual situation. I have no seal on my stove pipe joints and have no problems at all. I also have very good draft. If I had less draft, I may look into cementing the joints.

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