Flames in Pipe From Stove to Chimney
i have been using this stove for approxomately 6 years with no issues. this year every time we shake the coals or I open the vents for more draft through the coals for more heat I end up with flames shooting up the pipe from the stove to the chimney. the barometric damper is open half way. can anyone help or give any input? how do I make it stop?
Last edited by cram4400 on Fri. Jan. 25, 2013 3:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30300
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
This should open a can of worms--but tried & true from myself & other 50-93 owners--tin foil the baro & put in an MPD--problem solved--I keep my MPD closed all season no matter conditions--there is enough gaps/ slots for the bad stuff to get out--what are you back flap & ash vents settings?? PS-- welcome to the FORUM
do u mean cover the baro completely with foil nd close it off? where do I put an mpd? do u know wat is causing the flames? All other years we have only used the vent on the ash door. did not use the back vent. did not even understand how it worked, however this year I found info on this site that explained the back vent enough for us to try it. so we set that one at 7 but it has a habit of continuously closing bcuz I turn it down after shaking due to the flames in that pipe. nd then of course it ends up closing. but had the back at 7 and the ash door vent only open a little less than a quarter of the way. thank you
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 18004
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
Same chimney, same baro, same stove, same guy running the stove....So what changed? Different type/size/source of coal? Was the weather extremely cold and windy when you were tending the stove?cram4400 wrote:i have been using this stove for approxomately 6 years with no issues.
I don't disagree with Fred that a manual pipe damper might help...but if it hasn't been needed up until now, it seems like the problem lies elsewhere.
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 18004
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
Ahhh...so you DID change your routine.
Fred will confirm, but I think most people with this stove leave the ash door vent barely open...and leave the dial-control on a number that keeps the house the right temperature. You shouldn't have to mess with the dial setting when tending the stove.
Fred will confirm, but I think most people with this stove leave the ash door vent barely open...and leave the dial-control on a number that keeps the house the right temperature. You shouldn't have to mess with the dial setting when tending the stove.
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30300
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Ditto to what Rob said. I still have found that the 50-93 runs better with an MPD--Mine is approx. 3 foot above the stove body in the black pipe--that's not carved in stone height wise--At least a foot or better if you can, depending on your set-up. That flap is a bi-metallic thermo. & is a spring that is actuated (cool word) by the temp of the stove body. Yes, cover the Baro completly with foil. Keep us posted on progress/ results. If you want it, I have the phone # for Dean, who owns Hitzer & he loves to talk with people running his stoves---let me know.
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30300
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Check your PM's top--- pix of lil envelope
i did cover the baro with foil nd could feel a difference in the stove almost immediately. may I ask y u put in a mpd if the stove was never designed to run with one? is it necessary to put in a mpd or can we run it with just a straight pipe?