New to the Forum With Some Safety Questions About Coal.

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Rick 386
Posts: 2474
Joined: Mon. Jan. 28, 2008 4:26 pm
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Location: Royersford, Pa

Post Tue. Jan. 15, 2013 11:20 pm

ecco123 wrote:
Also saw these ones: A bit dearer for me as I have to pay shipping from the USA but maybe worth the extra?

Any other model recommended?
That is what a lot of us use here. We like the digital readout as most CO detectors will not sound the alarm until the CO levels reach the danger point.

Not sure what you have over there but look for digital readout types.


franco b
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Posts: 8566
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Location: Kent CT

Post Tue. Jan. 15, 2013 11:47 pm

ecco123 wrote:I always thought the bigger the chimney the better!
It's the taller the chimney the better, at least within reason. A large chimney only has greater capacity but needs that much more heat to draft well. That's why fireplace chimneys are so big. They need the capacity to handle a big fire and the big fire makes enough heat to make it draft. A chimney in the interior of the house will be warmer and draw better regardless of size. In the colonial houses of America the chimneys were always in the center of the house.

That you get smoke loading wood which has a hotter stack temperature and so better draft is a sure sign to at least suspect that the draft is not enough. Remember draft is created by hot air rising. If the chimney is cooling it too much it will not rise.

Any heating man should be able to measure the draft for you at the boiler breech and over the fire with a small hole in the loading door, or you can buy a manometer yourself for about $25 for the Dwyer Mark2 instrument. Then you will have definite figures to go by to make a decision rather than guessing.

There are simple things you can try to improve draft but lets get some figures first before making decisions. Measure the draft with the boiler running and with a simple magnetic thermometer the temperature of the smoke pipe about a foot after the boiler. Do this under typical running conditions.

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Posts: 2380
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Bucket a Day
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant Casting 2310
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Wood in the VC and anything that will fit in the Bucket a Day. It's not fussy.
Location: Girardville Pa.

Post Wed. Jan. 16, 2013 9:32 am

I had a yellow flame coal fired boiler that burned rice coal but the concept should be the same. I noticed that you had both the upper and the lower door open at the same time. If I forgot to completely close the lower door and opened the upper door, fumes would roll out the top door. That happened every time I had both open at the same time for whatever the reason. The draft on my chimney wasn't the best and it would go to minimum if I had an ash buildup in the smoke pipe or where it entered the chimney. With both doors open the draft took the past of least resistance which was in the bottom door and then right out the top door instead of going up the chimney. I fixed that by making double and triple sure that I only had one door open at a time and there was no ash buildup anywhere in the smoke pipe or at the entrance to the chimney.

Try only having one door open at a time and see if that lessens the fumes problem.

Visit Hitzer Stoves

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Posts: 2380
Joined: Mon. Sep. 27, 2010 3:39 pm
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Bucket a Day
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vigilant Casting 2310
Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Wood in the VC and anything that will fit in the Bucket a Day. It's not fussy.
Location: Girardville Pa.

Post Wed. Jan. 16, 2013 9:50 am

I went back and watched that video again very closely this time. The smoke pipe comes out the rear of the boiler and goes straight into the chimney. There is a T and it appears that the drop leg part has a cloth tied around it at the base. If this is the case, your loosing draft right there. I suspect that if you put a smoke source like incense or a cigarette near that T I'm betting that you will see the smoke being drawn into the drop leg on that T if it only has a cloth tied over the opening. Worth a check and it can be completed without a big hassle. If it does draw in smoke put a cap on it.

Rev. Larry

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buffalo bob
Posts: 727
Joined: Tue. Feb. 07, 2012 12:41 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: hitzer 354
Coal Size/Type: anthracite nut
Location: scpa. bedford co. buffalo mills

Post Wed. Jan. 16, 2013 4:06 pm

i have to agree with rev. larry check out that rag on the T do what the rev says

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Posts: 1269
Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2008 6:38 pm
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Baseheater #6
Coal Size/Type: Stove coal
Other Heating: Oil Furnace, electric space heaters
Location: Monroe, NY

Post Wed. Jan. 16, 2013 11:26 pm


Bienvenido al NEPA! Aqui hay mucha gente que entienden el carbon. Creo que el carbon que tienes es entre anthracite y bituminous. Pude que nececitas abrir la valvula en la puerta para mejor combustion de tu carbon. Es una lastima que el orno no tiene shaker grates. El diametro del chiminea is importante - mejor el diametro correcto que grande... eso es un tema complicado... Parece que el problema is la chiminea... Vives circa Zarragoza?

Welcome NEPA! There are a lot of folk here that understand coal burning. I believe the coal you have is a grade between anthracite and bituminous. It may be necessary to open the vent on the door to get better combustion of your coal. It's a shame that the boiler doesn't have shaker grates. The diameter of the chimney is important - better the correct size than too large a diameter... this is a complicated subject... It does appear that your problem is the chimney... Do you live near Zarragoza?


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